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Old 23-07-2016, 14:59   #1
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Angry Yanmar belts and raw water pump

I've had it handling my (2 cat engines) Yanmar 3YM30 belts and water pump mess. (Rubber all over the engine room, leaks, rusted bolts, limited access to replace the impeller would take a few hours).

I will be replacing the main belt with one of the serpentine belt kit.

Then maybe bypass my water pumps (and belts), replacing them with AC Electric Magdrive Pumps (115V, <2Amps, 500 or 1000GPM, no shaft, run dry protection, continuous duty pump). Just need to find a way to match their output to the engine RPMs. I hope there is a way the flow can be electrically throttled? I have a request about that with KoolAir Ac pumps, keeping my finger crossed.

Stupid idea??
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Old 23-07-2016, 19:29   #2
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Re: Yanmar belts and raw water pump

Using Ac driven pumps adds a level of complexity I personally wouldn't be happy with. Are you able to relocate the raw water pump to a more convenient location on top of the engine? Without seeing your installation, this, coupled with the serpentine belt option would be my pick.
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Old 24-07-2016, 07:40   #3
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Re: Yanmar belts and raw water pump

Water pump would be hard to move, I looked at that too. It is driven by its own short belt around the crankshaft pulley.
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Old 24-07-2016, 07:51   #4
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Re: Yanmar belts and raw water pump

You understand what I believe is the issue with using AC pumps for your main engine, that is how to turn the flow down for idle.
You could do it with electric valves and micro switches on the throttle quadrant, but I wouldn't, I think that would be even more problematic than what your dealing with now. Obviously another flaw maybe that without AC power, your dead in the water motor wise.
They work great for generators though


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Old 24-07-2016, 07:53   #5
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Re: Yanmar belts and raw water pump

Maybe you can modify the engine room somehow to make access to the raw water pump easier?
If your experience with Serpentine is like mine, it appears you have to concern yourself with that belt maybe once every five years or so, maybe longer. In short, it from my perspective completely solves any belt issues.


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Old 24-07-2016, 09:23   #6
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Re: Yanmar belts and raw water pump

PPlepew,

i'm not a sailor yet but, i'm a diesel engine guy.

ever take a look at your thermostats?

they're usually copper and if the motor is salt water cooled they might be stuck half open.

just enough to keep the motor from overheating but restricting enough to play holy hell with the circulation system and its drive.

give it a shot before overkilling yourself and your wallet.
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Old 24-07-2016, 10:01   #7
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Re: Yanmar belts and raw water pump

Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeeeee View Post
PPlepew,



i'm not a sailor yet but, i'm a diesel engine guy.



ever take a look at your thermostats?



they're usually copper and if the motor is salt water cooled they might be stuck half open.



just enough to keep the motor from overheating but restricting enough to play holy hell with the circulation system and its drive.



give it a shot before overkilling yourself and your wallet.

A yanmar 3ym30 is heat exchanger cooled, no salt on the thermostat. The raw water pump has no restrictions built into the circuit.

You either have an access problem to your pumps or the pumps are worn or both.


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Old 24-07-2016, 18:22   #8
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Re: Yanmar belts and raw water pump

Just a small note in Australia a replacement water pump assembly costs just under $1000.
Had to learn quickly here how to do your own rebuilds.
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Old 24-07-2016, 20:23   #9
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Re: Yanmar belts and raw water pump

I've been having the same problems with my yanmars and re bushed the alternator mount to get the best alignment I could and use nothing but gates green stripe belts and replace every 60 to 100 hours. The serpentine belts are a goo but expensive solution but there is no way I would go to an ac pump
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Old 24-07-2016, 22:48   #10
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Re: Yanmar belts and raw water pump

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Originally Posted by Rduncanson View Post
I've been having the same problems with my yanmars and re bushed the alternator mount to get the best alignment I could and use nothing but gates green stripe belts and replace every 60 to 100 hours. The serpentine belts are a goo but expensive solution but there is no way I would go to an ac pump
Small amounts of corrosion or pitting in any of the pulleys will tear belts up. My 2gm's belt alignment angles suck (especially the alternator) but they are still lasting 150-200 hours.

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Old 25-07-2016, 01:28   #11
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Re: Yanmar belts and raw water pump

Sailmonkey,

thanks for the heads up.

drive belts are designed to transmit only a small amount of power to accessories.

a seawater positive displacement pump needs more power than a centrifugal freshwater pump.

if the belts are in a-1 shape and the pulleys are aligned perfectly and the tension is right, there is a restriction in the salt water side putting an overload on the belt.

something like the heat exchanger is mucked up or the thruhull is plugged or the feed hose from the thruhull is sucking shut fighting the positive displacement seawater pump.

if the freshwater goes through the tubes on the heat exchanger, then the water jacket around it might be mucked up.

just for laughs, i'd shut the thruhull, rig up a 5 gallon bucket to the saltwater feed line, fill the bucket up with radiator flush and run it through the saltwater side, at slow speed, all the way out the exhaust and see what comes out the tailpipe.

if some horrible looking stuff comes out, one more time aint goin' to hurt.
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Old 25-07-2016, 07:04   #12
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Re: Yanmar belts and raw water pump

I just helped a friend troubleshoot his raw water system on his 1989 Hunter 35.5 Legend with a 3GM30F from the raw water intake all the way to the exhaust. We took apart everything and questioned everything. He was not getting enough water flow. We closed the seacock and cleaned the strainer and ensured that the seal was good on top. ensured the hose was clear to the impeller. Dismounted and rebuilt the impeller housing with a new impeller, cleaned the mating surface of the housing to the cover and replaced the seal. I would recommend replacing the hose with the t-fitting and repipe to the heat exchanger. we reverse flushed the heat exchanger with fresh water we replaced the hoses going to and from the siphon break to the mixing elbow and replaced the manifold and mixing elbow. Evidently his problem was a impeller sucking air from the cork seal, the hose from the siphon break to the mixing elbow had junk in it and the mixing elbow had junk in it.

Don't be afraid to take this system apart.

Just make sure your seawater intake seacock is closed prior to doing anything so you don't flood your boat.

If you have any questions, please PM me and we can talk on the phone.
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Old 28-07-2016, 16:10   #13
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Re: Yanmar belts and raw water pump

I also have a cat. Both 2 Yanmar 3YM30 are not older than 5 years and a desaster here in the Chilean Patagonia.
Rusted motorblocks and bolts, rubber all over, painting is changing to white sulfat.
Belts must be changed frequently.
The instrument panel dont show the tachometer.
I understand you all very well complaining.
Every year, in winter I take them out for mantainance and repainting.
The chilean representant accepts no complaining.
Never again Yanmar
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Old 28-07-2016, 17:59   #14
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Re: Yanmar belts and raw water pump

My Yanmar 4JH4E goes 300-350 hours between belt replacements, and I am driving an aftermarket 110 amp alternator. Check the belt alignment. By the way, I am using the Mitsubishi OE belt, or the Napa Gold equivalent.

Raw water pump impeller goes for 200 hours, when it is replaced as part of preventative maintenance. My engine is 11 years old and shows little if any rust. Also no fuel, oil or water leaks. It cost a fortune to change out in 2005 and I am ensuring it will still be running for years to come.

My major complaint is that the engine hour meter, a digital display on the tach, has flaked out. Once in a while it may make an appearance, but for the most part, it is out to lunch. Installed a simple Hobbs meter several years ago to remedy this.

You need to develop a close loving relationship with your engine. I change the oil every 100-125 hours, and replace the coolant every few years. I lubricate the moving bits, and give it the eyeball inspection every day.

I expect to get 20-25 years reliable duty service from this engine.
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Old 29-07-2016, 16:24   #15
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Re: Yanmar belts and raw water pump

Congratulations Redsky

I could never, and it is impossible for us, to have our motors that clean.

Here in the chilean Patagonia, the rain, salt, humity,makes there work and therefore the oxidation.
Yanmar uses bad screws and just paints them. If you try yo move them, the paint gets off and if you dont repaint them, the oxidation appears.
Yanmar seems only to work in tropical sectors.
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