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Old 09-12-2004, 20:54   #1
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Talking Yanmar 3ym30c s and new Privilege 37

Well, I just bought a Privilege 37 down in Florida. One of the engines got flooded out and I decided to replace both the 3gm30's with the newer 3ym30's.

Anyone have any Caveats about the installation? I intend to do it myself.
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Old 09-12-2004, 21:39   #2
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Yanmar

There is always www.yanmarhelp.com

Michael
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Old 10-12-2004, 03:57   #3
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Dont really know this boat, but twin 30hp seems a lot of engine for a 37ft cat. This must add a lot of weight with both the engines and the fuel needed for running them. On a 37 ft cat I would have expected in the region of 45hp total to have been more than adequate.

I realise that the yanmar engines vary little in their weight between the YM20 and YM30, but the Beta 20 is a lot lighter even with the added weight of the gearbox, and is a lovely smooth running unit.
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Old 10-12-2004, 05:05   #4
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From “Cruising World Magazine” (February 1, 2003)
Coaxing the Beast into Its Lair - by Darrell Nicholson
http://www.cruisingworld.com/article...=396&catID=569

I think "Good Old Boat" also ran an Engine Replacement article.
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Old 15-12-2004, 21:46   #5
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Privilege 37

Gord, Thanks for the article it was informative. Just ordered the Yanmars today. They will deliver them next week. A LOT of work to do in the meantime.

Talbot, The Privilege 37 is a rather heavy boat for it's size. It is 8 tons give or take a little. There were 3 options from the factory. They were a 18 hp Yanmar, a 27hp Volvo, and 27 hp Yanmar. My boat was originally equiped with Yanmar 27s. Since I needed to replace one engine, I thought it best to replace both engines. I have not heard anything bad about the 3ym30s and have always heard good things about Yanmars. I guess time will tell.

Meanwhile, back to pulling wire! (replacing all of it on the port hull, what a LOT of work!)
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Old 16-12-2004, 03:21   #6
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Wow 8 ton, no wonder you want 30hp. Thought my catalac was overweight!

Hope the new engines are good for you. The Betas are getting very popular in UK cause of how smooth they are, ease of fitting to beds designed for other engines (many conversion kits) and their price. It is based on a Kubota engine which is available worldwide so spares are easy. Another manufacturer uses the same engines - Nanni, but they all are lighter. The difference is a heavier smoothing system on the Beta which makes for a nicer installation.

keep us posted on your installation and initial thoughts on the new engines.
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Old 03-01-2005, 18:46   #7
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Painting the engine room

Well, just got off the phone with my Yanmar dealer, he says the engines are going to be delayed a week. Something about an adapter plate for SD20 not being available and shipping delays from Japan.

That's okay, getting the engine room ready is more of a challenge than I thought, but then again, it always is. Removing the old engine was not as hard as I thought, except for one issue. Removed the mounting bolts for the sail drive then tried to pull the engine apart. It is not moving! Did I forget a bolt somewhere???? No. Well I thought about it a bit. Hmmmm... maybe rust between splines on the sail drive and engine. Well, a lot of rocking and tugging finally got them to come apart. Sure enough the there was rust sealing the flywheel to the transmission splines. No damage to either. A little phosphoric acid and brush seems to have resolved the issue and cleaned everything up. Engine appears to be in relatively good shape! Put some oil in the cylinders after removing the injectors, no water and turns over freely!!! Maybe I can get a refund on the new engines!? <chuckle> Not.


I got all the old wiring out, removed the old seafrost refrigeration and took out the old insulation. Next step is painting and new insulation! After the initial cleaning, it is starting to look ship shape! More updates to come.

Keith
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Old 25-01-2005, 18:42   #8
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Cool Engine Installed!

Well, I got the engine installed this weekend. Got the fuel replumbed and installed. I put dual Racor filters in, a bit of overkill, but they look real cool. I also put in a Guest batter switch, ANL type fuse and a couple of bus bars to connect all the associated cables. I also built new cables for almost everything.

Interesting differences between the 3YM's and old 3GM's The plumbing is generally on the opposite side. The 3YM's have one terminal for external power cables. It attaches directly to the starter. The 3GM's have a cable for the starter and one for the alternator. Additionally, the 3GM's required a cable for engine shutdown. The 3YM's have an electric solenoid which will shut the engine down.

All in all the new 3YM is a joy. It was PAINLESS to install/upgrade. If you have all the fittings at hand, it could be accomplished in less than a day. The only challenge still remaining is the engine panel. The new panels are about 4 inches narrower and 1/8 inch taller than the old panels. I have a big cutout of at my conning station that the old panels fitted in. If one wanted to take the easy route out, I guess I could just get a piece of plastic backing, mount it in the old openings and mount the new panel on the plastic backing. That would be the easy way out... Instead, I'll have a couple new panels built and install the gauges that came with the new panels into this built panel. That will let me add a water temp and oil pressure gauge!

Update on progress to come....


Keith
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Old 07-02-2005, 19:44   #9
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Heat tap for Water heater

A note on installation. After I installed the engine, I sought to connect my new water heater to the heat exchanger of the engine. This was going to be realively painless. Just to hoses going from the engine to the water heater. But, plumbing is never as simple it seems! ( I really DO dislike plumbing!) I was going to use two bayonette fittings to tap into the water pump. Just remove the existing plumbing, screw the new fitting on, a few hose clamps, and tada! hot water. Well no... we are talking plumbing here! I remove the hot water exit, screw in the fitting... Great! remove the return... Hmmm.... They use a hex plug instead of a bolt, wonder why they did that???? Looks the same size? hmmm.... once I get the fitting in, that looks awfully close for the routing of the return hose. The Alternator sits VERY close...??? Oh well I guess they ran out of space to put it elsewhere. I try to attempt to screw the new fitting in. Hmmm... Can't seem to get this thing to line up? Hmmm... I can get one thread to sit, but it feels like it is going to cross thread if I try to put any torque on this... Hmmm.... This is plumbing... Oh, they must have a different thread?!? I call my local distributor... Oh, yeah, you need the hot water heater plumbing kit!!! Huh??? Yeah, there are special fittings for the return... Cant get the hoses on past the alternator if you just put in a straight fitting. I'll get one out to you in the morning... NO problem. Sure enough, the mounting kit allows one to put a swiviling 45 degree hose barb in this very small space. It is perfect... if you have the kit. Otherwise, Don't try it. So, if you're installing a 3ym30 and you want to tap into the heat exchanger for an external water heater, make sure you as for a hot water heater plumbing kit. Painless without it! Otherwise multiple trips to the plumbing store and end up getting something that doesn't work, won't fit, and or leaks.

Keith
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Old 29-07-2006, 14:42   #10
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Update;

The 3YM30 engines come with a hose that is attached from raw water outlet of the heat exchanger to the exhaust mixing elbows. I did not read in the installation manual where you were supposed to remove this and route it to a vented loop. This will prevent a syphon from causing a back-up into the engine. The installation review and sea trials I had done by the Yanmar dealer identified this as an issue.

The other issue was to make certain you use Shell Dex-cool for the freshwater anti-freeze. Everything else will void the warrenty.

Everything else is great with the exception of a slight overheating problem that is covered in a whole lot more detail in another thread.
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Old 11-03-2008, 16:41   #11
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Yanmar 3ym30c s and new Privilege 37

Keith,

Just curious if you still have the old 3GM30Fs. I think you said one of them was good. If you still have it, I'd be interested in it. Message me directly at msoneji@pacbell.net

Mahendra
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Old 11-03-2008, 17:09   #12
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Great postings.

Keep us updated as you progress. Have you posted any pictures of the boat?
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Old 12-03-2008, 10:21   #13
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Make sure you did not get rid of your spare fuel and oil filters from your 3gms, the filters are the same. The impeller is different. Yanmar has there own antifreeze now called YG30, I am suprised that your dealer did not offer this product to you. Make sure you go onto Yanmar Marine and register your engines.
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Old 19-04-2008, 13:51   #14
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hot water heater plumbing kit for 3GM30F?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Strygaldwir View Post
So, if you're installing a 3ym30 and you want to tap into the heat exchanger for an external water heater, make sure you as for a hot water heater plumbing kit. Painless without it! Otherwise multiple trips to the plumbing store and end up getting something that doesn't work, won't fit, and or leaks.

Keith
Hi Keith,

very interesting. I know this was some time back, but do you happen to have the part number for the kit? Or an installation diagram? I have been looking everywhere for such a thing.

I am currently installing a water heater onto a Yanmar 3GM30F (which was converted from a 3GM30 using Yanmar's fresh water cooling kit).

My installation may be a little different than yours, since I am installing the water heater in parallel (so that part of the cooling liquid goes through the water heater and part of it goes through the cylinder block/heat exchanger). The engine's fresh water pump has inlet/outlet joints which are designed for this purpose.

The joints are listed in the Yanmar manual as PT 3/8, which I believe means BSPT (British Standard Piping Thread) 3/8 inch. It seems like the thread is slightly different from what I've been able to get from a local agricultural machinery shop here in Sicily (and which were sold to me just as plain old 3/8 inch).

Another thing I'm wondering about is whether it's advisable to install an extra (electric) pump in the water heater part of the circuit, or whether its better to just let the engine fresh water pump do all the work. I've read somewhere that installing a water heater can reduce the effectiveness of the engine's cooling circuit. This seems to make sense since it effectively diverts some of the cooling liquid flow away from the cylinder block. So in this case, installing an extra pump might not be a good idea. In fact, maybe it would be better to install a on/off tap so that one can block the flow of the cooling liquid through the water heater if necessary (for instance if the engine is heating up).

I'm wondering if anyone has any experience/advice/recommendations regarding this type of installation.

I had overheating problems last season (due to what turned out to be a leaking heat exchanger), so I'm trying to be extra careful this time...

Sacha
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Old 25-04-2008, 20:28   #15
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Actually, I registered with the distributors that I purchased the engines through. I paid $100 or so, they came out, did an installation inspection and sea trial. Then they signed the warrenty info card and sent it into Yanmar. Pretty painless. They are the ones that spotted the necessity for the Anti-siphon loop.
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