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Old 16-01-2010, 14:53   #16
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Re-visiting this topic, does anyone else have a problem getting the last .3-.5 quarts out using a manual pump? Are 12v powered pumps better at getting the last little bit out? I also feel that a drain plug at the lowest point would be best for the engine. Maybe it is just me, but I feel like I did a sub-par job on changing the oil when I check the dipstick and it is a darker brown than new oil!! Any tips from the old pros??

Thanks, Frank
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Old 16-01-2010, 15:00   #17
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To comment on the colour of your oil after the oil change, you would expect to see a slightly dirtly oil otherwise the oil is not doing its jog of removing the hydro carbons, dark or dirty oil is a good thing. Even when oil is change in motor vehicles it does not all come out as there are areas which have captured oil deposits. Just the point of regular oil changes is a real good thing.
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Old 16-01-2010, 15:15   #18
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I have the same 2 engines and i use a 1 gal. zip lock bag it fits under the oil pan and at first i dobled them up because i thought they might tear getting them out but -this has never happened and now only use 1 bag
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Old 16-01-2010, 15:18   #19
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I agree with slightly darker. But much darker than changing a car for instance, to me means a decent amount of oil was still left in the pan. Just looking for ways to get that last bit out pumping out via dipstick, or whether anyone really worries about it. Thanks!!
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Old 16-01-2010, 15:31   #20
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I installed a tee at the oil pressure sender with a suitable high pressure hose terminated by a cap.
To change oil, I undo the cap, stick the hose in a 5 quart plastic laundry soap bottle and start the engine. I just let it idle, and when the hose starts spitting air, I shut off the engine, remove the hose, and cap the bottle.

It's almost white glove with no effort.
The hardest and dirtiest part is changing the filter.

Lastly when it's convenient, I take the closed container to the oil dump, empty and save it for the next time.

Ees bery bery seemple!
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Old 16-01-2010, 17:55   #21
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Originally Posted by senormechanico View Post
I installed a tee at the oil pressure sender with a suitable high pressure hose terminated by a cap.
To change oil, I undo the cap, stick the hose in a 5 quart plastic laundry soap bottle and start the engine. I just let it idle, and when the hose starts spitting air, I shut off the engine, remove the hose, and cap the bottle.

It's almost white glove with no effort.
The hardest and dirtiest part is changing the filter.

Lastly when it's convenient, I take the closed container to the oil dump, empty and save it for the next time.

Ees bery bery seemple!
Wow are you not concerned about running the engine with out oil-even if its only a little wile?
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Old 16-01-2010, 19:02   #22
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If the Engine oil had additives like Molybdenum then it should not be damaged when run without oil for a few seconds . Have seen tests where car was driven for 200 miles without oil - no damage.
This company has a good product for boat engines (just one of a number of companies)
Schaeffer's Moly Bond X-200 Synthetic Diesel Motor Oil
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Old 16-01-2010, 19:52   #23
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In addition to the above reason for having a Molybdenum additive, is to save an engine from destruction when the most common form of serious fault occurs - that is to say 'no cooling water' eg :-
'water pump failure or hose breaks/comes off or through hull blockage etc..'
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Old 16-01-2010, 20:28   #24
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Wow are you not concerned about running the engine with out oil-even if its only a little wile?
Nope.It doesn't run without oil, just PRESSURIZED oil.

The engine is running without load, and engines didn't even have pressure oiling for many years, they used splash oiling.

It worked on my previous boat (Yanmar 3HM35F) for as long as I owned it, and it's been working just fine on my current boat.

When you start a car, it's got no oil pressure for a few seconds, and all the oil has had time to drain away from bearings etc. That's got to be worse than running an engine with oil pressure when the pressure is all of a sudden gone for a few seconds. At least the oil film is still there.

Think of it this way. Can you hold your breath for ten seconds without dying?

IMHO, Same thing.
Gord, flame away.
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Old 17-01-2010, 00:20   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by senormechanico View Post
Nope.It doesn't run without oil, just PRESSURIZED oil.

The engine is running without load, and engines didn't even have pressure oiling for many years, they used splash oiling.

It worked on my previous boat (Yanmar 3HM35F) for as long as I owned it, and it's been working just fine on my current boat.

When you start a car, it's got no oil pressure for a few seconds, and all the oil has had time to drain away from bearings etc. That's got to be worse than running an engine with oil pressure when the pressure is all of a sudden gone for a few seconds. At least the oil film is still there.

Think of it this way. Can you hold your breath for ten seconds without dying?

IMHO, Same thing.
Gord, flame away.
Hmmm....your method is not for me, but hey if it has worked for you for many a year, then good on ya! One benefit to your set up is I think I'd change the oil even more if it was as easy as you have. I assume with your method you don't worry about the last few ounces of oil in the pan?
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Old 17-01-2010, 08:12   #26
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Originally Posted by senormechanico View Post
Nope.It doesn't run without oil, just PRESSURIZED oil.

The engine is running without load, and engines didn't even have pressure oiling for many years, they used splash oiling.

It worked on my previous boat (Yanmar 3HM35F) for as long as I owned it, and it's been working just fine on my current boat.

When you start a car, it's got no oil pressure for a few seconds, and all the oil has had time to drain away from bearings etc. That's got to be worse than running an engine with oil pressure when the pressure is all of a sudden gone for a few seconds. At least the oil film is still there.

Think of it this way. Can you hold your breath for ten seconds without dying?

IMHO, Same thing.
Gord, flame away.
about 90% of the wear on car engines (I have read) comes from start up , because as you said all the oil had had time to drain away- so if your running for a few seconds I suppose its not too bad, but it also is not too good-I would never do that to any engine i was planning on keeping more than a day, but its working for you and thats all that counts! I somehow treat my engines like there a part of me, silly as that may seem!
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Old 17-01-2010, 09:06   #27
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If you properly warm up the engine before you change your oil you'll never get out that last little bit. Whether you draw it out from the dip stick or drain it from a pan plug. Next time you drain your oil after a warm up and before you fill the engine back up with fresh oil, come back a few hours later and see how much oil has accumulated back in the oil pan. The larger the engine the more you'll have. The only real answer is to change your oil often and on appropriate schedules. Clean oil is thee life blood of any engine.
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Old 17-01-2010, 11:07   #28
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about 90% of the wear on car engines (I have read) comes from start up , because as you said all the oil had had time to drain away- so if your running for a few seconds I suppose its not too bad, but it also is not too good-I would never do that to any engine i was planning on keeping more than a day, but its working for you and thats all that counts! I somehow treat my engines like there a part of me, silly as that may seem!
You're right about the wear on start up. I cringe each time I start our car.
It starts at about 1000 rpm and it's a DOHC all aluminum V6.
I've been tempted to install one of those pre luber pumps.

The reason I'm not worried about the boat diesel is that it's already warm, lubed, idling slowly and not under any load.

Lawnmowers have no pressure oiling of any kind.
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Old 17-01-2010, 11:22   #29
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In 1999, I installed a Universal M20B Diesel
westerbeke, marine generators, engines, Official Site
in an Irwin 32
http://www.irwinyachts.com/aft-cockp...lan%5B1%5D.jpg

The engine came from the factory with a drain hose, if you look at the picture you'll see it. Since the 1969-1972 Irwin 32 had a deep bilge, I could work an antifreeze bottle under the engine and put the hose in it to drain the oil.

With my present boat, with a Yanmar 3QM30 and a very shallow bilge, I stuck with using a pump thru the dipstick hole.
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Old 17-01-2010, 11:45   #30
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On the 3YM30, the dipstick tube is a suction line, if you put the pump tube over the dipstick tube, you will get most of the oil out, this goes for the bigger engines too. If the oil is really grungy, we change the oil twice, running the engine before for 15min, between for 5 min, then change the filter after the 2nd change. The new oil is so clean its hard to see on the dipstick
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