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Old 28-05-2009, 19:34   #1
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Yanmar 3HM35F Oil Change

Hello I am trying to change the oil for the first time on my 3HM. I am using a hand pump in the dipstick hole and am having a hell of a time of it. So far I have only pulled out about 3.6 liters from what is said to be a 5.4 Liter crankcase. (The dipstick was reading full before I started draining.) It's taken me about two hours and I am continually sucking air and having to rearrange the hose and spilling oil all over. I am eyeballing a bolt in the front of the oil pan and am wondering if this is the drain the Yanmar manual keeps telling me I could never get at. It looks relatively molested like someone's had at it a few times with a wrench. Maybe someone with a Yanmar 3HM could help me. The bolt is just off center on the front of the oil pan on the front of the engine. I can't seem to get it open and don't want to damage anything trying. Is it one of those backwards threaded bolts? Is there an easier way? Arggghhh.
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Old 28-05-2009, 20:29   #2
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Buy a PLASTIC Vacuum Sucker.....They used to be made by Tempo they are now made by Moeller........Stay away from metal or impeller pumps. (No rust or 12 volts to worry about

The vacuum sucker is good for all kinds of liquids

I have two...one for oil...one for water...they are both over 7 years old.
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Old 28-05-2009, 23:08   #3
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oil change

I hope you ran the engine before the oil change to heat it up & thin it down!

And the plastic vac pumps are the only way to go.

regards Bill
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Old 29-05-2009, 04:11   #4
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Buy a PLASTIC Vacuum Sucker.....They used to be made by Tempo they are now made by Moeller........Stay away from metal or impeller pumps. (No rust or 12 volts to worry about...
Do you use the small Economy Pump, or the larger 4l Fluid Extractor from Moeller/Sceptre?
Moeller Marine Online - Fluid Extractors


I had a brass body Jabsco “Little Pal” Utility Pump (1 gpm) - No rust BUT tended to get quite uncomfortable when draining hot oil.

The entire Moeller/Sceptre Marine Products Catalogue (Great stuff):
http://www.sceptermarine.com/sites/s..._for_email.pdf

Moeller/Sceptre recently acquired Tempo Marine Products.
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Old 29-05-2009, 05:01   #5
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One more option, long term rather than short term. Get a pipe fitting with the proper thread, or have one made at a machine shop. Screw it into the lowest hole of the crankcase(presumably the back one) and attach a small diameter 3' section of hose. Put a simple cork in the hose and run a wire around the end of it. Use the wire to hang the hose on the side of the engine compartment well above the sump. Now, when you want to drain the crankcase, simply uncork the hose, lower it into a handy receptacle, and the used oil pours out.

Advantages: Far easier oil changes. It takes me no more than five minutes. No excuse now, it is way too easy to change the oil, so you won't forget to change the oil frequently.

Disadvantage: I know, this is tough to set up, especially while the engine is in the boat. But I don't even own one of those little pumps.

Mainebristol
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Old 29-05-2009, 11:55   #6
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Do you use the small Economy Pump, or the larger 4l Fluid Extractor from Moeller/Sceptre?

I had a brass body Jabsco “Little Pal” Utility Pump (1 gpm) - No rust BUT tended to get quite uncomfortable when draining hot oil.
Yup that's what I was using just took a little elbow grease (No pun intended). Does anyone know about that bolt at the front of the oil pan?
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Old 29-05-2009, 21:34   #7
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Maybe you got all the oil that was in there out already? At this point, after changing the filter, I would probably just fill it to the fill line and see how much it takes...
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Old 30-05-2009, 01:56   #8
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Yup that's what I did. All set on this thread, unless someone can tell me what that bolt does...
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Old 21-11-2009, 10:59   #9
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sump bolt head?

It is a threaded plug for the oil pick-up path. The 3HM uses casted in path-way from the sump filter screen, sump, block to oil pump. It is Not the lowest point to drain oil, the oil screen sits about a fat 1/4 inch off the sump bottom. The best oil drain point should be a simular looking bolt on the bottom, stb side of the sump.

Hope this helps. Just doing some Yanmar research and found your line here. I'm just now rebuilding my 3HMF on my Kohler generator and had the sump in my hand two nights ago.
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Old 21-11-2009, 13:22   #10
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Originally Posted by Mainebristol View Post
One more option, long term rather than short term. Get a pipe fitting with the proper thread, or have one made at a machine shop. Screw it into the lowest hole of the crankcase(presumably the back one) and attach a small diameter 3' section of hose. Put a simple cork in the hose and run a wire around the end of it. Use the wire to hang the hose on the side of the engine compartment well above the sump. Now, when you want to drain the crankcase, simply uncork the hose, lower it into a handy receptacle, and the used oil pours out.

Advantages: Far easier oil changes. It takes me no more than five minutes. No excuse now, it is way too easy to change the oil, so you won't forget to change the oil frequently.

Disadvantage: I know, this is tough to set up, especially while the engine is in the boat. But I don't even own one of those little pumps.

Mainebristol

Thanks for useful advice.
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Old 21-11-2009, 21:17   #11
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I put a "T" in the oil pressure sender hole, ran a suitable reinforced rubber hose with a shutoff valve at the end of it, and tucked it away. When the time to change oil came along, I started the engine, put the hose into a 5 qt plastic "All" clothes washing detergent bottle, and let 'er rip. When it started blowing air, I shut down the engine.
White glove oil change with no sweat or drama.

It worked great on my last boat, and it works great on my current boat as well.

Steve B.
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Old 11-08-2011, 21:26   #12
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Re: Yanmar 3HM35F Oil Change

SO what finally was the best solution? I am having the exact same problem (even less oil coming out!)
I've read all the proposals and they all seem ingenious.

Anybody have any photos of these solutions? (a picture is worth a 1000 words)

Topanga
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Old 13-08-2011, 22:04   #13
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Re: Yanmar 3HM35F Oil Change

This thread was a while ago but in the end I think I just ground it out and fished out every last drop with the little manual Jabsco pump I had. Like they said in the thread it really helps to have the oil warm. You need to make sure your hose is long enough to reach the bottom of the oil pan. That's about it. It is just generally a crappy job.
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