Yanmar 3GM30 - No Fuel at Injectors 2 and 3

[SUBSAILOR]

HI, I had a plunger stick on a small diesel recently, due to sitting for a long time. I recently replaced an injector pump on a Perkins diesel, the rebuilder sent a bottle of special additive with it for low sulfer fuels. Allegedly low sulfer diesel fuels do not adequately lubricate injector pumps. The additive is STANADYNE LUBRICITY FORMULA. One 16oz bottle treats 125 gal of fuel. Could be an ounce of prevention in the future. DAN

[lateral]

Useful info if you know what your diesel specs are. Nobody I have talked to at the pumps knows the spec of their diesel. I am somewhat nervous to add something not compatible with the diesels chemistry.
I think I will call the diesel fuel supply companys and see exactly what we are buying here.

A clean,replace seals & bench test for my IP cost $360nz.
Apparently it was mint inside.
No obvious reason for sticking.

[bazzer]

Recently a experienced mechanic suggested to me to add ATF to the fuel to help lub it! He said it would run great on 100% ATF. Certainly old ATF is recycled to use as Bio Diesel. Seemed to work for me with very old fuel. But I did eventually get rid if the fuel for some decent stuff.

[lateral]

Update:
My Yanmar IP is back in its rightful place and I have just bench started it with all the necessaries; lift muffler, 15gal tank for raw water supply (with continuous feed from tap), return of diesel back to Jerry can etc.
It is producing copious water out the exhaust!! I don't remember it doing that when it was in the boat. It would give a bit of a gush every now and then, gurgle & spit small amounts out every few seconds or so. It is now pumping a regular flow and is making me nervous. What is the controlling factor for the raw water flow rate?

Looking at the exploded diag. it looks like the rpm of the pump is the controlling factor. Normally in my boat the water would first go thru a heat exchanger for the fridge compressor, but this is not going to effect the rate much.

Could the impellor have the wrong number of vanes/wings?

[bill good]

You have a water trap & exhaust muffler normally in the boat & this is where the water will collect before a build up of pressure expels it out as gush. (trust you have the correct impeller fitted.) Sea water & fresh water will have different cooling temps. It would be easy to check the thermostat. Starts to open 71c & fully open 85c. Book recommends check 500hrs/ replacement 12mths or 2000hrs.

[bill good]

Just checked the temps 42c & 52c for seawater. (quoted fresh water sorry)

[lateral]

Thanks Bill.
So, you are saying 42deg at the exhaust for the fresh water system? Seems low. I am going to put an Engine Guardian (Tm) on a bolt on the head for extra protection.
I will post a pic of the water flow.

[bill good]

Testing the unit off the motor suspended in a container of water with a thermometer

[lateral]

[lateral]

Originally Posted by bill good

Testing the unit off the motor suspended in a container of water with a thermometer

Oh, ok the thermostat open/close temps. Thanks for that.
Above pic is the constant flow volume. It doesn't build up but is a steady flow
even though I have the riser water muffler on it.
Also here. Just don't understand why it now is pumping so much water.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V2vFbGbZsi4

[DotDun]

Originally Posted by lateral

Just don't understand why it now is pumping so much water.

The hose after the waterlock muffler needs to be raised to make a minimum 18" loop, no more than 5', to simulate installation in a boat, then you'll get the gushing outflow you are looking for.

IMO, there is no such thing as too much raw water.

[lateral]

Originally Posted by DotDun

The hose after the waterlock muffler needs to be raised to make a minimum 18" loop, no more than 5', to simulate installation in a boat, then you'll get the gushing outflow you are looking for.

IMO, there is no such thing as too much raw water.

Sounds logical. Ta mate! In the boat she goes.

[svstrider]

Originally Posted by lateral

Hi to all from NZ,
I have posted in another thread but I think this subject deserves its own heading for those in the same situ later.
My motor has been sitting for 7yrs whilst we rebuild our boat .(& find the funds to do so!)
Symptoms : No fuel at injector 2&3 High pressure side of IP.
Fully bled to IP. (Several times)

It had 550hrs on it & was running fine when pulled.

Governor lever is stuck & cutoff lever seems to have incomplete
travel.

I have similar problems with my Yanmar 3GM30 (1100 hrs) - In the last month, the engine runs but the govenor lever is becoming very hard to move and it idles much faster 2000 rpm rather than 1200 like it used to. I unhooked the morse cable and the cable moves freely. The problem is with the stuck govenor lever. I have the workshop manual. Should I dismantle the lever and injection pump OR take it to the mechanic shop? Any other suggestions woulld be appreciated.

[surfmachine]

Mate, I went through all this with my nanni diesel, it has a cambox injector pump. like yours, the spring in number 1 pump had broken in 2 places due to corrosion and the motor sitting for too long, pulled the cxambox pump out, very easy, replaced the spring, and all good, did it in the saloon of the boat. Trouble was, it was not the original spring as in sumatra and it was a cut down spring from a brake master cylinder, only lasted 30 hrs, so had 10 made, got the replacement time down to about 20 minutes after 3 replacements.

Exactly the same symptoms as yours, no fuel from number 1 injector line.

Watch the connection from the govener arm to the back of the cambox and rack!

Good luck from Keith.

[bill good]

Had a 1GM freeze up at the power lever. A drop of good penetrating oil fixed it up without pulling it to bits.