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Old 24-09-2008, 12:39   #16
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Originally Posted by Hunter27 View Post
eek..

Thanks, I haven't looked into that.

I am assuming where the exhaust hose connects at the middle top left (from front)? Is this something I can tell by pulling the hose off and looking/feeling in, or is it something I need to disassemble the elbow?
You'll have to pull the hose off (best to just slit it at the ends for removal and replace) and then take off the THREE nuts holding th eelbow to the head and pull the elbow off the head so you look into the ends and see if there is any corrosion. Use something like a screwdriver to puch on the sides of the inner tube walls to detect a wall about to collapse. As an incentive let me say that the cheapest head I found was $500, but at least it contained all the valves and springs! Also pay real close attention the external oil lines, especially the one that runs just below the water pump. IF they go you're for a big mess at best and a new engine at worst. They are cheap(compared to an engine rebuild or replacement) and easy to replace. If you don't already have one I highly recommend getting a shop manual. It details every aspect of this wonderful little engine.

Good luck
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Old 24-09-2008, 12:46   #17
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As for the click click then start. Mine does it for time to time as well. I found it was indicative of less than stellar voltage/current available. There's enough voltage/current to kick the bendix out but as soon as it comes up against the flywheel and hence the compression of the motor there isn't enough juice to continue. Pay real close attention to the condition of the big red wire that runs from the battery to the starter. Look at and clean the terminals at both ends. Corrosion can also get into the wires where they enter the terminal and add resistance. The easiest test for this is a jumper cable from the battery to the starter terminal.
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Old 24-09-2008, 12:49   #18
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I'd replace the solenoid. They're inexpensive, and in a 1981 boat it's probably due. They might have put in a new one with the new starter you mentioned. I'm not familiar with the 1GM, but the solenoid is usually a smaller cylinder atop the starter motor with hot in from the battery and hot out to the starter.

If you got a new solenoid with the starter, then check power from the battery to the starter (possibly bad cable/connection).
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Old 24-09-2008, 12:53   #19
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I'd replace the solenoid. the solenoid is usually a smaller cylinder atop the starter motor with hot in from the battery and hot out to the starter.
Yes it was included, that's what I thought.

thanks
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Old 24-09-2008, 12:56   #20
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The easiest test for this is a jumper cable from the battery to the starter terminal.
Ahhh, thanks Randy

I hadn't tried that, I just jumper cabled a new battery into the starter battery to give it a boost. That makes sense if the cable is going, it still would react the same.

I'll look into that.
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Old 24-09-2008, 12:57   #21
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When I push the start button, it is a single click, then after a few more pushes, it will engage and start spinning up...
The "eventual" start could indicate a "flat spot" on the starter windings. After several tries, each of which barely advanced the starter rotor, you may have moved off that flat spot.
I'd try a SOLID (temporary) connection, between the charged battery & the start contacts (large) on the starter. If it spins vigourously, then you can be certain it's either a compromised wiring problem (low voltage), or solenoid.
\If it doesn't ALWAYS spin vigourously, then it's a flat spot, and you need to re-build or replace the starter motor.
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Old 24-09-2008, 18:40   #22
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A single click, generally indicates low voltage, or a bad solenoid, or both.
Based on the updated information I am leaning with Gord.

There are remote starter cables. Generally it looks like a set of jumper cables with a hand held switch.

Connect the big wires from the battery to the point on the starter where the big cables attach. Connect the little wire to the solenoid. If it starts easily you have narrowed the problem down to the start switch or the cables connecting the battery to the starter.

When the big cable goes bad, or the connections are loose or dirty you will get the symptom described. Replacing the starter cables may be cheaper than buying the remote starter...

In regards to the power, it's a little trickier. An intermittent power drop is hard to track down and explain rationally.

The reason I asked you cruising grounds and bottom condition is to try and figure out how fast your barnacles grow but it sounds like this is likely not the cause.

Seeing as you've done the fuel thing, the inlet (air) and exhaust are likely targets to start investigating.
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Old 24-09-2008, 18:55   #23
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There are remote starter cables. Generally it looks like a set of jumper cables with a hand held switch. When the big cable goes bad, or the connections are loose or dirty you will get the symptom described. Replacing the starter cables may be cheaper than buying the remote starter...
Thanks Dan,

I am definitely going to try the jump cable approach. It hadn't occurred to me that it could be something so basic, so it's definitely worth looking into.

As for the power issue, I have a few ideas now, so can hopefully get this thing sorted out.

Thanks again to all for your help, it is really appreciated.
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Old 24-09-2008, 19:53   #24
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When I had the 'clicking' problem on my starboard engine, I used a volt meter to track down the problem I was dropping 2 volts at the starter under load. This is indicative of poor connections. At the time I had a starter battery that was on the weak side and it contributed to the problem.

I cleaned the cables and it fixed the problem. Boats I've seen haven't had tinned copper wires running to the starter. Over time the wire in these cables develops a green corrosion which indicates the cable has to be replaced or at the very least sanded shiny clean at both ends.
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Old 24-09-2008, 23:56   #25
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I cleaned the cables and it fixed the problem. Boats I've seen haven't had tinned copper wires running to the starter. Over time the wire in these cables develops a green corrosion which indicates the cable has to be replaced or at the very least sanded shiny clean at both ends.
Al long time ago I changed a cable that was bad. At the low point in the run I cut it open and about the only thing left in there was green paste...

If the cable is "very" flexible or its flexibility is inconsistent along its length, and it is very old, I would suspect it.

When we added the third battery last year, I replaced all the cables. About $40 and 3 hours worth of insurance, inlcuding mounting the new battery and fixing the original 2 battery mounts.
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Old 25-09-2008, 01:25   #26
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Starting trouble 1GM

G'day Hunter 27,
Yes the lifting ring on top of the engine. This allows one person to use the decompression lever if things are real bad & start the engine. Just make sure you include a 30amp fuse just as the orginal wiring has. The exact problem was an expensive repair on my boat with a new starter & battery replacement before the real fault was found.

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Old 25-09-2008, 06:16   #27
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When I had the 'clicking' problem on my starboard engine, I used a volt meter to track down the problem I was dropping 2 volts at the starter under load. This is indicative of poor connections.
Thanks guys, you are great.

It seems that this is a definite likely suspect, and maybe a new starting battery, as I don't know how old this one is.

Can I get new cables from an auto store or do they have to be a particular 'marine quality'?
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Old 25-09-2008, 06:21   #28
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Yes the lifting ring on top of the engine. This allows one person to use the decompression lever if things are real bad & start the engine.
Excellent, thanks mate.

I didn't know there even was such a thing (guess it must be a common problem)

It is so hard to narrow this stuff down, especially since a lot of the expensive things we do don't fix the real problem (my wife is not a happy camper at the ongoing expense..)

I tell her at least we have a lot of spares for the future.. LOL
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Old 07-12-2015, 10:01   #29
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Re: Yanmar 1GM starting issues

The intermittent change of rpms could indicate a small leak in the fuel line. I had a similar problem which I thought might have been caused by a bad fuel pump. I added an electric pump and found a small leak in the hose. Fuel oozed out when the pump was turned on. I replaced the line and no further problems. The electric pump also helps in purging the fuel system. Turn the pump on, loosen the last fitting to the injector and allow fuel to bleed out, tighten that fitting and then loosen the fitting after the injector and allow fuel to bleed. You have to turn the engine over with the compression release held up to allow the injector to pump fuel through.

For the starter, make sure the connections from battery to the starter are all good. A little corrosion makes for a huge drop in voltage. If suspect, check the voltage at the battery by using a volt meter across the terminals while cranking. Compare the voltage at the battery to what you get with meter placed at the starter terminal when cranking. If much difference, trace the starter wire back and continue checking across any isolation switches or other connections.
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Old 07-12-2015, 10:11   #30
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Re: Yanmar 1GM starting issues

I just read through some of the other posts. Marine wiring uses copper that is tinned. I guess that is to limit the corrosion? You could use automotive wiring but for the cost I would use the Marine stuff. Check Defender Marine web site. As for a bad battery, take the battery to any automotive supply store and they can check the battery with a load test. You can buy a load tester at Harbor Freight for about $21 if you don't want to pull the battery out.
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