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Old 05-01-2016, 12:31   #16
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Re: wrong saildrive oil repercussions

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Originally Posted by monte View Post
Thanks again. Today we removed the oil, replaced with the the correct oil, ran for 20 mins in fwd and reverse, removed the oil and filled with fresh oil. Pumping the oil out we managed to take out 2.8l each time. Yanmar states that is the capacity so I guess most of the incorrect oil is now removed. We will keep a close eye on the performance over the coming weeks.
I'd run them hard, now for a short while to see, like maybe while tied to a dock or something that will put a big load to see if they slip, don't abuse them, just a couple of minutes pulling hard
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Old 05-01-2016, 12:44   #17
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Re: wrong saildrive oil repercussions

Well I ran them as hard as I dared till the dock pylons started to creak we will give them a good test tomorrow heading east to nonsuch bay. Unfortunately it will be mostly sailing but will test them in and out of the anchorage at least. The problem was intermittent and as soon as we noticed slipping, it either stopped or we stopped the engine, so I wouldn't expect to see anything until, we have a chance for a longer motor. Yes the clutch is a disc type. The last mechanic we spoke to just pulled out a clutch disc replacement kit and told us we need one of those installed, at around 1400. He didn't inspect the boat at all. We left him and I can highly recommend the Yanmar agent in Antigua, who took the time to inspect the engines and saildrives carefully, take oil samples and compare the engine oil to the saildrive oil. It was obvious by the smell they are different when they are supposed to be the same oil. Very professional service from Steve at Marine Power Services in Antigua.
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Old 05-01-2016, 13:36   #18
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Re: wrong saildrive oil repercussions

I'm betting they weren't hurt then.
I used to drag race motorcycles professionally many years ago and abused my share of wet clutches. You knew if you warped plates as the clutch would drag even when disengaged, and if they were glazed, then they would slip under load, glazed ones we would sand to break the glaze and they worked fine, warped ones had to be replaced of course, there are alternating friction disks that have the friction material on them and steels, it's the steels that warp and or glaze.
Automobile automatic transmission clutches are essentially identical, but it's the heat build up from slipping that kills them, and it sounds like you didn't let them slip much
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