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Old 26-05-2010, 10:32   #1
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White Sludge in Oil Filler Pipe - Perkins 4-108

I am developing a white creamy emulsion in oil filler pipe and droplets of water under oil cap. i have 79 perkins 4-108. with 700 hours on it. Engine has been running great for the 400 hours that I have owned it for ,but I don't want to run it any more untill i diagnose this problem.
Fuel lines are leaky and air is being drawn into fuel from somewhere causing periodic hard starting but I don't think this is related unless agressive use of WD40/starter fluid could have caused some water to squeeze into oil. Is this serious? last oil change was 250 hours ago. It's not loosing coolant (that I can tell). Dipstick shows good clean(black) oil. there is some blow back of oil in air breather cap ,but that is an old problem that I just clean out from time to time.
Any help would be greatly valued!
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Old 26-05-2010, 10:55   #2
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Is the cc vent plugged?
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Old 26-05-2010, 11:13   #3
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No it's free flowing. The engine has always lost about 1 quart of oil every 20 hours.
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Old 26-05-2010, 11:17   #4
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Thats water in the lube oil. Probably a blown gasket. Needs to be repaired!
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Old 26-05-2010, 11:33   #5
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check gaskets as well on any intercoolers or oil coolers you might have. Any place that water and oil are seperated by a gasket. Best guess... head gasket.
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Old 26-05-2010, 11:49   #6
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If you're using Ether to start, I'd bet you have a head gasket problem
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Old 26-05-2010, 17:59   #7
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If engine is FWC there is a CO detection kit available to confirm if it is head gasket. Using spray cans (WD40,ether, silicone...etc) to start it will cause major mechanical failure. Sometimes the little whites spots are from condensation. Compression test could also indicate leaking head gasket - requires special tools. Inop glow plug system, restricted filters, supply pump, injection pump, injectors, any condition that can put air into fuel system can lead to hard starting.
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Old 26-05-2010, 19:28   #8
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It could be as simple as condensation in the engine. If the engine has sat for a while and/or not run long enough on a regular basis, water will condense in the crank case. If an engine is run regularly for it to warm up and run at operating temp for awhile the condensed water vapor will evaporate out of the oil but may leave a residue.

That's not to say it could be something more serious like a head gasket. Just eliminate the simple stuff before you start tearing it apart and spending big bucks.
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Old 27-05-2010, 07:50   #9
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last oil change was 250 hours ago.
How often do you change your oil....?
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Old 27-05-2010, 08:42   #10
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we cruised with a 4-108 for years. Any cream color in the oil is definitely water. First, do an oil and filterchange with the engine oil warmed up. Look for a milky color in the engine oil itself. If the oil is a nice black, you may not have a problem at all. It could be residue from condensation as mentioned above. If there is signs of water in the oil, look at the oil cooler first. It may very well have a pinhole from corrosion and need to be replaced. A final check if nothing else shows up is the head gasket, but you will almost always have smoking and a possible overheating of the engine if it is the head gasket.
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Old 27-05-2010, 08:48   #11
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Addressing your hard start, my guess is you have an air leak which does not suck air but allows the fuel to settle into a low spot or be drawn back into the tank and causes an air pocket in the lines after the engine is shut down. you will need to start at the tank and go through the entire fuel system at every connection. If I remember correctly the fuel connections have a fitting that can not be reused and need to be replace any time you loosen one or work on the fuel lines. You really should not use starter fluids.
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Old 27-05-2010, 15:24   #12
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Thanks for great responses. I changed oil and filter. Oil was a clean jet black with no residues of any kind. Engine does NOT overheat or put out colored exhuast. Also coolant is clean. I worked engine over for 1 hour and only got a few more droplets of water in filer pipe, so maybe there's hope it's only condensate .Droplets don't taste salty! I cured two leaks in the fuel lines but I still have one bad leak from governer. Can I replace just governer? can something be tightened on governer? It's dripping one drip every second when engine runs or primer is actuated. It stops leaking after engine sits for 10-15 mins
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Old 27-05-2010, 15:54   #13
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By the goevenor, I take you are refering to the high preassure fuel pump. Nothing to tighten. Have ir rebuilt or replaced. It is not an owner freindly serviceable item
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Old 27-05-2010, 17:35   #14
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In case you don't happen to have one, here is a link to the shop manual for your engine. In particular, section N deals with bleeding the fuel system.

http://www.endeavourowners.com/dscsn...p%20Manual.pdf
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Old 27-05-2010, 17:36   #15
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If you mean the cav injector pump it is probabley leaking from where the throttle control or the stop lever enter the throttle body section of the pump.The shaft seals go hard over time combined with lower sulpher fuel used today cause them to leak.Depending as to which pump is fitted ie hydraulic or mechanical govenor dictates how much works involved to fix, if it has a hydraulic govenor and the pump is easy to access seal replacement is an easy 10 min job, without causing any loss of settings or dramas here in Aussie seal kits are around $40 us they can also be bought from seal &bearing outlets.If possible post a photo or a detailed description of the pump throttle section inc plane of levers horiz or vert.

Cheers, Shakey.
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