Cruisers Forum
 


Reply
  This discussion is proudly sponsored by:
Please support our sponsors and let them know you heard about their products on Cruisers Forums. Advertise Here
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread Rate Thread Display Modes
Old 26-05-2010, 09:32   #1
Registered User

Join Date: May 2010
Location: Tampa Fl
Boat: Challenger ketch 35'
Posts: 12
White Sludge in Oil Filler Pipe - Perkins 4-108

I am developing a white creamy emulsion in oil filler pipe and droplets of water under oil cap. i have 79 perkins 4-108. with 700 hours on it. Engine has been running great for the 400 hours that I have owned it for ,but I don't want to run it any more untill i diagnose this problem.
Fuel lines are leaky and air is being drawn into fuel from somewhere causing periodic hard starting but I don't think this is related unless agressive use of WD40/starter fluid could have caused some water to squeeze into oil. Is this serious? last oil change was 250 hours ago. It's not loosing coolant (that I can tell). Dipstick shows good clean(black) oil. there is some blow back of oil in air breather cap ,but that is an old problem that I just clean out from time to time.
Any help would be greatly valued!
jonathanteller is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 26-05-2010, 09:55   #2
Registered User

Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Ohio
Posts: 2,933
Images: 4
Is the cc vent plugged?
Joli is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 26-05-2010, 10:13   #3
Registered User

Join Date: May 2010
Location: Tampa Fl
Boat: Challenger ketch 35'
Posts: 12
No it's free flowing. The engine has always lost about 1 quart of oil every 20 hours.
jonathanteller is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 26-05-2010, 10:17   #4
Registered User
 
speciald@ocens.'s Avatar

Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: On the boat - Carib, Chesapeake
Boat: 58 Taswell AS
Posts: 1,139
Thats water in the lube oil. Probably a blown gasket. Needs to be repaired!
speciald@ocens. is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 26-05-2010, 10:33   #5
Registered User
 
cdennyb's Avatar

Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Northern California
Boat: finally a catamaran dive boat...
Posts: 505
Send a message via MSN to cdennyb Send a message via Skype™ to cdennyb
check gaskets as well on any intercoolers or oil coolers you might have. Any place that water and oil are seperated by a gasket. Best guess... head gasket.
__________________
the perfect dive boat is one you're on...
cdennyb is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 26-05-2010, 10:49   #6
Registered User
 
Sailmonkey's Avatar

Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Houston
Boat: ‘01 Catana 401
Posts: 9,626
If you're using Ether to start, I'd bet you have a head gasket problem
Sailmonkey is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 26-05-2010, 16:59   #7
Registered User

Join Date: Apr 2010
Posts: 6
If engine is FWC there is a CO detection kit available to confirm if it is head gasket. Using spray cans (WD40,ether, silicone...etc) to start it will cause major mechanical failure. Sometimes the little whites spots are from condensation. Compression test could also indicate leaking head gasket - requires special tools. Inop glow plug system, restricted filters, supply pump, injection pump, injectors, any condition that can put air into fuel system can lead to hard starting.
slowroll is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 26-05-2010, 18:28   #8
Moderator Emeritus
 
roverhi's Avatar

Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Carlsbad, CA
Boat: 1976 Sabre 28-2
Posts: 7,505
Send a message via Yahoo to roverhi
It could be as simple as condensation in the engine. If the engine has sat for a while and/or not run long enough on a regular basis, water will condense in the crank case. If an engine is run regularly for it to warm up and run at operating temp for awhile the condensed water vapor will evaporate out of the oil but may leave a residue.

That's not to say it could be something more serious like a head gasket. Just eliminate the simple stuff before you start tearing it apart and spending big bucks.
roverhi is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 27-05-2010, 06:50   #9
Now on the Dark Side: Stink Potter.
 
CSY Man's Avatar

Join Date: Aug 2003
Location: Palm Coast, Florida
Boat: Sea Hunt 234 Ultra
Posts: 3,962
Images: 124
Quote:
last oil change was 250 hours ago.
How often do you change your oil....?
__________________
Life is sexually transmitted
CSY Man is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 27-05-2010, 07:42   #10
Registered User
 
AnchorageGuy's Avatar

Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Wherever the boat is!
Boat: Marine Trader 34DC
Posts: 4,619
we cruised with a 4-108 for years. Any cream color in the oil is definitely water. First, do an oil and filterchange with the engine oil warmed up. Look for a milky color in the engine oil itself. If the oil is a nice black, you may not have a problem at all. It could be residue from condensation as mentioned above. If there is signs of water in the oil, look at the oil cooler first. It may very well have a pinhole from corrosion and need to be replaced. A final check if nothing else shows up is the head gasket, but you will almost always have smoking and a possible overheating of the engine if it is the head gasket.
__________________
Chesapeake Bay, ICW Hampton Roads To Key West, The Gulf Coast, The Bahamas

The Trawler Beach House
Voyages Of Sea Trek
AnchorageGuy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 27-05-2010, 07:48   #11
Registered User
 
AnchorageGuy's Avatar

Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Wherever the boat is!
Boat: Marine Trader 34DC
Posts: 4,619
Addressing your hard start, my guess is you have an air leak which does not suck air but allows the fuel to settle into a low spot or be drawn back into the tank and causes an air pocket in the lines after the engine is shut down. you will need to start at the tank and go through the entire fuel system at every connection. If I remember correctly the fuel connections have a fitting that can not be reused and need to be replace any time you loosen one or work on the fuel lines. You really should not use starter fluids.
__________________
Chesapeake Bay, ICW Hampton Roads To Key West, The Gulf Coast, The Bahamas

The Trawler Beach House
Voyages Of Sea Trek
AnchorageGuy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 27-05-2010, 14:24   #12
Registered User

Join Date: May 2010
Location: Tampa Fl
Boat: Challenger ketch 35'
Posts: 12
Thanks for great responses. I changed oil and filter. Oil was a clean jet black with no residues of any kind. Engine does NOT overheat or put out colored exhuast. Also coolant is clean. I worked engine over for 1 hour and only got a few more droplets of water in filer pipe, so maybe there's hope it's only condensate .Droplets don't taste salty! I cured two leaks in the fuel lines but I still have one bad leak from governer. Can I replace just governer? can something be tightened on governer? It's dripping one drip every second when engine runs or primer is actuated. It stops leaking after engine sits for 10-15 mins
jonathanteller is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 27-05-2010, 14:54   #13
Registered User
 
Maddog's Avatar

Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 318
By the goevenor, I take you are refering to the high preassure fuel pump. Nothing to tighten. Have ir rebuilt or replaced. It is not an owner freindly serviceable item
__________________
It's kind of like tearing up $100 bills while standing in a cold shower.
Maddog is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 27-05-2010, 16:35   #14
Registered User
 
Astrid's Avatar

Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Northern British Columbia, part of the time in Prince Rupert and part of the time on Moresby Island.
Boat: 50-ft steel Ketch
Posts: 1,884
Send a message via MSN to Astrid Send a message via Yahoo to Astrid
In case you don't happen to have one, here is a link to the shop manual for your engine. In particular, section N deals with bleeding the fuel system.

http://www.endeavourowners.com/dscsn...p%20Manual.pdf
__________________
'Tis evening on the moorland free,The starlit wave is still: Home is the sailor from the sea, The hunter from the hill.
Astrid is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 27-05-2010, 16:36   #15
Registered User

Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: australia
Posts: 539
If you mean the cav injector pump it is probabley leaking from where the throttle control or the stop lever enter the throttle body section of the pump.The shaft seals go hard over time combined with lower sulpher fuel used today cause them to leak.Depending as to which pump is fitted ie hydraulic or mechanical govenor dictates how much works involved to fix, if it has a hydraulic govenor and the pump is easy to access seal replacement is an easy 10 min job, without causing any loss of settings or dramas here in Aussie seal kits are around $40 us they can also be bought from seal &bearing outlets.If possible post a photo or a detailed description of the pump throttle section inc plane of levers horiz or vert.

Cheers, Shakey.
shakey doug is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search
Display Modes Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Diesel Fuel Tank " Sludge " Journey41 Construction, Maintenance & Refit 50 16-12-2012 07:42
West Systems 407 Filler Question - Please, Please HELP! Amigo Construction, Maintenance & Refit 22 22-09-2009 05:24
Pipe down, you ... skipgundlach General Sailing Forum 1 07-05-2009 14:09
Best filler for holes bob_77903 Construction, Maintenance & Refit 21 06-12-2008 07:44
Filler to level out low spots in bilge? ssullivan Construction, Maintenance & Refit 17 08-05-2007 13:24

Advertise Here


All times are GMT -7. The time now is 08:29.


Google+
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Social Knowledge Networks
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.

ShowCase vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.