Westerbeke 52 leaking fuel from injector pump governor cover

[nknowland]

I have diesel fuel leaking around the injector pump governor cover.

I suspect lever that connects to the governor.

Does the injector pump need to be removed? Or can I just remove the governor cover?

[donradcliffe]

If the injector pump has over 2000 hours on it, its time to remove it and have the seals replaced when the injector shop rebuilds it. Cost of the rebuild should be $600-$800.

[nknowland]

Thanks for the quick reply Dan.

How difficult is it to remove the injector pump? Should I have a Westerbeke remove and reinstall?

[donradcliffe]

Take a look at the manual and decide:

https://www.westerbeke.com/technical...-15.0_tech.pdf

[svthreecheers]

Hi nknowland
Bayfield 40,your Westerbeke 52 must be about 30 years old.With a lot of Hours.
the injection pump is a VE style pump made by Bosch,Diesel Kiki or Denso.
You most properly have a leaking Throttle shaft O-ring under the Throttle Lever.
As soon as one O-ring leaks all the rest will fail shortly after.
You have to get the pump rebuilt and have somebody re-time it to the engine,
who knows what he is doing.
Cost of a complete rebuilt of the pump ca. $ 1200 to 1600 CAN.
Good Luck
Cheers
Siggi

[nknowland]

Thank you for your detailed reply. I think you are right on. Our problem is a family reunion we will miss in the Bahamas for Christmas if we stop and do a rebuild now. We have an injector pump governor gasket arriving tomorrow that we'd like to install and go. Is that a fool's folly?

[model 10]

Originally Posted by nknowland

Thank you for your detailed reply. I think you are right on. Our problem is a family reunion we will miss in the Bahamas for Christmas if we stop and do a rebuild now. We have an injector pump governor gasket arriving tomorrow that we'd like to install and go. Is that a fool's folly?

Like the previous poster said, it's probably the shaft O ring. Over time both the shaft, O ring and housing wear and then leak. If you change just the O ring that might fix things for a while.

[svthreecheers]

Originally Posted by Guy

Like the previous poster said, it's probably the shaft O ring. Over time both the shaft, O ring and housing wear and then leak. If you change just the O ring that might fix things for a while.

Guy you are correct,it will be the shaft o-ring thats leaking due to worn
Trottleshaft and Bushing in Governor Cover.
To change that o-ring you have to remove the cover (very tricky to re-
install ) take out the shaft after removing the Throttle lever and replace
o-ring.Watch out for a thin washer between shaft cover bushing.
The lever sits on a fine splice on the shaft,so mark the position very
carefully before removing it from the shaft or you will not get your proper
idle and high idle RPM after re-installation.You have to replace the cover
o-ring as well.Note: there are 2 different o-ring sizes for the cover,make sure
you have the correct one.
Hope the pump is easy accessible .
Cheers
Siggi

[andyft]

there is a very good and reasonable$ injection pump rebuild shop in huntsville alabama, Jason is who runs it.

[tinkrman69]

Replacing the governor cover seals will buy you time. 20 maybe 200 hrs or more. there are a lot of variables. Make sure you do it "clean" if you don't have really easy access to the whole top of the pump, Mark the position of the mounting flange and remove it. as long as you don't turn the pump shaft and engine it will align right back up, making sure to realign the mark on the mounting flange. when disassembling the cover pay attention to what holes the springs, cables and rods are attached to. When you are ready to bleed the system make sure to fill the governor housing with fuel first also loosen the return line at the pump. the bleeder on the governor housing is a little hard to get to on some applications you can simply loosen one of the hold down nuts/bolts on the housing till fuel comes out. it is imperative to fill the housing, as air will get in the high pressure side in rough seas. It's easiest to do the job on a bench altho you might have to replace the mounting gasket. if time is short you can cut your own gasket "making sure it is of the same thickness" stacking a few gaskets with a non hardening sealant will suffice, as long as it's the same thickness. the depth of the shaft is important. it's not rocket science, just pay attention as you disassemble it. good luck

[svthreecheers]

Originally Posted by tinkrman69

Replacing the governor cover seals will buy you time. 20 maybe 200 hrs or more. there are a lot of variables. Make sure you do it "clean" if you don't have really easy access to the whole top of the pump, Mark the position of the mounting flange and remove it. as long as you don't turn the pump shaft and engine it will align right back up, making sure to realign the mark on the mounting flange. when disassembling the cover pay attention to what holes the springs, cables and rods are attached to. When you are ready to bleed the system make sure to fill the governor housing with fuel first also loosen the return line at the pump. the bleeder on the governor housing is a little hard to get to on some applications you can simply loosen one of the hold down nuts/bolts on the housing till fuel comes out. it is imperative to fill the housing, as air will get in the high pressure side in rough seas. It's easiest to do the job on a bench altho you might have to replace the mounting gasket. if time is short you can cut your own gasket "making sure it is of the same thickness" stacking a few gaskets with a non hardening sealant will suffice, as long as it's the same thickness. the depth of the shaft is important. it's not rocket science, just pay attention as you disassemble it. good luck

tinkrman 69
Good luck making up molded and formed rubber o-rings for that specific
governor cover, you are thinking about a CAV-DPA injection pump not
a VE style pump
Cheers
Siggi

[tinkrman69]

Yes removing that would be a little more in tailed....going into the front cover. But if you do have to go that rout and the O ring has hardened Motoseal or some kind of Hylomar sealant found at an auto parts or outboard shop. will work around the edges of the o ring at the metal to metal contact.

[nknowland]

Everything is going well so far. I am at the point where my mechanic (on phone) said i shouldbe able to lift out thr pump, but it won't budge. Any thoughts???

[donradcliffe]

Now is when you resort to prayer and a hammer.

[svthreecheers]

Originally Posted by nknowland

Everything is going well so far. I am at the point where my mechanic (on phone) said i shouldbe able to lift out thr pump, but it won't budge. Any thoughts???

Those pumps are mounted with 3 screws and sometimes a mounting bracket in the back that has to be taken off before the pump moves.
What does the drive looks like ? Is it a spline ,then the pump should come out easy,is it a gear drive then you have to remove the nut and washer that holds the gear to the drive shaft of the pump through a opening in the front of the pump mounting flange .Since the shaft has a taper you mite need a puller to pull the gear off .What does the manual say ? Does the gear stay on the pump when you pull out the whole unit?
let me know
Cheers
Siggi