Westerbeke 46 rear seal

[zboss]

Originally Posted by HappyMdRSailor

This totally blows....

These are the things people don't take into account when listing all available options... It's like a giant snowball...

1. Lay days add up faster than nerds at a comic book convention
2. Anxiety of paying for non productive lay days causes:
3. Finding anything else that can be done... = More $$$

Let us know how it goes... I still have a few guys at the ready to make a seal housing.... Guessing $2-300 max

The problem is having a rubber seal vulcanized to the metal housing. If I could find an appropriate seal, which does not exist because its proprietary design, I could have the seal vulcanized to the existing metal housing.

[HappyMdRSailor]

Originally Posted by zboss

The problem is having a rubber seal vulcanized to the metal housing. If I could find an appropriate seal, which does not exist because its proprietary design, I could have the seal vulcanized to the existing metal housing.

This is a "ditch your housing" route... Or grab a short length of bbb and make yerself some "gantsa saila" bling...

It was a machine a new housing and press fit a std seal...

[jimbunyard]

Several posts back, it seems I remember you saying that you had an aftermarket gasket kit with front and rear crank seals that didn't work. Just curious, if you pulled the rubber part out of the steel part of the rear seal, will the seal supplied with the aftermarket kit press into it? I've seen (and done) more, uh, creative things in the past...

[zboss]

Originally Posted by jimbunyard

Several posts back, it seems I remember you saying that you had an aftermarket gasket kit with front and rear crank seals that didn't work. Just curious, if you pulled the rubber part out of the steel part of the rear seal, will the seal supplied with the aftermarket kit press into it? I've seen (and done) more, uh, creative things in the past...

Yes, we do have that rear seal. However, you cannot just press in a new seal. As can be seen in the attached photo the flange of the metal portion of the seal has the rubber part vulcanized to it. So the rubberized portion has both an internal round part and flat part.

In possibly good news... I received an overnight shipping notice yesterday from the company that I said did not come through! UPS indicates that they tried delivering it this morning but the yard is closed so they will try again Monday! I'm not the praying type but I am wishing very very hard that this is the right part!

If not, we still have a westerbeke part in route in a few weeks.

[zboss]

I have in my hand an OEM seal! Its been confirmed by our mechanic as being the correct seal.

Interestingly, the guy I ordered it from sent me two seals: a seal with same size and ID number as the old seal and a 2nd seal with a larger internal dimension and a different seal ID number accompanied by a shaft sleeve.

[skipmac]

Originally Posted by zboss

I have in my hand an OEM seal! Its been confirmed by our mechanic as being the correct seal.

Interestingly, the guy I ordered it from sent me two seals: a seal with same size and ID number as the old seal and a 2nd seal with a larger internal dimension and a different seal ID number accompanied by a shaft sleeve.

At last. So, does that mean the party is back on?

And if I may ask, how much did they ding you for the seal? Was the second (incorrect) one free?

[Saltyhog]

Originally Posted by zboss

I have in my hand an OEM seal! Its been confirmed by our mechanic as being the correct seal.

Interestingly, the guy I ordered it from sent me two seals: a seal with same size and ID number as the old seal and a 2nd seal with a larger internal dimension and a different seal ID number accompanied by a shaft sleeve.

AWESOME !!!!

So after all that and knowing what you know now, if you were starting all over at the beginning of your refit, would you re-power with a new engine or rebuild the old one.

[zboss]

Originally Posted by Saltyhog

AWESOME !!!!

So after all that and knowing what you know now, if you were starting all over at the beginning of your refit, would you re-power with a new engine or rebuild the old one.

If not for the oil leak, the engine still runs great. Starts right up without any issues. Doesn't make smoke, doesn't over heat, etc.

So, as tempting as it sounds to just bite the bullet and get a new engine if I were to go back, its still 1/3 of a new engine with plenty of hours left to go. It took 27 years to get up to 3000 hours and now I have all the hard to find parts, except a new lift pump (ah cr*p now that I said that I better get one). I even have all my solenoids, a new wiring harness, all new second set of gaskets, etc.

I would probably have hauled the engine completely out and rebuilt it from the bottom up when we first bought the boat.

But, no, I don't think a repower would be in order - I have other things that need attention, like new sails.

[zboss]

Originally Posted by skipmac

At last. So, does that mean the party is back on?

And if I may ask, how much did they ding you for the seal? Was the second (incorrect) one free?

Here's the deal. They are not only behind on their shipping but two to three weeks behind on their billing. The original price quoted was $346, which is $200 less than westerbeke.

Most westerbeke parts are usually painted red and are enclosed in a westerbeke plastic bag with a nice westerbeke part number sticker on it. These parts are painted mitsubishi grey and did not come in a bag. Nor was there any parts listing included.

My bet? They have some place to get the right mitsubishi parts, match them up with westerbeke parts, and sell them basically as aftermarket solutions, playing arbitrage between the full WB price and the Mitsu part. Of course, I could be full of it and "it just is"

Anyhow, I am not complaining.

[skipmac]

Originally Posted by zboss

Here's the deal. They are not only behind on their shipping but two to three weeks behind on their billing. The original price quoted was $346, which is $200 less than westerbeke.

Most westerbeke parts are usually painted red and are enclosed in a westerbeke plastic bag with a nice westerbeke part number sticker on it. These parts are painted mitsubishi grey and did not come in a bag. Nor was there any parts listing included.

My bet? They have some place to get the right mitsubishi parts, match them up with westerbeke parts, and sell them basically as aftermarket solutions, playing arbitrage between the full WB price and the Mitsu part. Of course, I could be full of it and "it just is"

Anyhow, I am not complaining.

That was the deal on the fresh water pump I purchased. Bare metal part from a tractor store was $90. Add red paint and put Westerbeke on the plastic bag, the exact same pump $230 list, discounted might save $30-50. Never knew red paint and plastic bags cost so much.

In your situation I think you're stuck and just have to take what you can get.

[zboss]

Yep, and the 2nd part is still a good part, so I will probably keep it. I didn't request two parts, so how would be know to send to parts unless the kit came with all three parts. Maybe they just made a mistake.

In any case, I am not complaining, I'll keep the 2nd part because its still a good part if we are in need of sleeving the crankshaft.

[HappyMdRSailor]

Oh man...

What a Fee - Ass - Co.... With a happy ending.... (non intended)

Glad things worked out, as much of a pain as it was...

Bravo on your persistence and patience...

No go sailing dammit....

[zboss]

Seriously. My wife and I finished up the painting, engine/trans getting put back in next week... time to go! Its getting cold here in STA.

[skipmac]

Originally Posted by zboss

Seriously. My wife and I finished up the painting, engine/trans getting put back in next week... time to go! Its getting cold here in STA.

It was in the high forties in north Florida this morning. Yes it is time to head south. At least you had a successful end to your quest for the seal.

[zboss]

The gold, platinum, and diamond studded oil seal has been installed. Engine will be done tomorrow!