Westerbeke 42B Injection Pump

[Valmika]

They say the definition of crazy is to do the same thing twice and expect different results. I've done this

I had a fuel leak from the old O rings on the fuel lines at my pump. the engine was fine but leaking
I replaced the O rings by removing the caps on each cover. Under the cap going into the fuel pump was a spring, a seat (washer) a little valve type thing that went in that and was held in a type of barrel. After i replaced the O rings and put it back together it was overfueling and blowing diesel out the exhaust. I figure I installed some of those bitsy parts wrong so I went through to check. Everything was right the first time but when I put it back together now there was no overfueling but it seemed to be running on only 2 cylinders. The engine has over 4K on it so I decided to have the pro rebuild the injectors just to eliminate that as a problem. Got them back ,put them in, Now running on three cylinders. No fuel coming out of the pump on number 1 It runs clean ,no smoke or soot , no fuel leak but the number 1 hole in pump wasn't pumping. I took the bitty pieces out. Once again they were correct. Put it back together and WHOO now I am overfueling in number 1
The bitty parts don't seemed to be keyed to go in a certain direction but four times and four different results. I am lost. Does anybody have any ideas.

[Valmika]

Ok So here is the blowup. I only took off the thingamajig and whatchmacallit

Delivery Valve holder, O ring, spring ,delivery valve, gasket, and valve seat. None of them seem to be keyed or position sensitive Actually valve holder is keyed but there doesnt seem to be a counter part in the pump body

[ulpilot45]

Hey Mark the most likely cause of you problem is the barrel part of the barrel and plunger it what controls the amount of fuel each element puts there is a grove on the lower part that lines up with a pin in housing if you let it get out of place it pushes the pin back and the the barrel moves anywhere it want when you tighten up the delivery valve holder

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[Valmika]

Originally Posted by ulpilot45

Hey Mark the most likely cause of you problem is the barrel part of the barrel and plunger it what controls the amount of fuel each element puts there is a grove on the lower part that lines up with a pin in housing if you let it get out of place it pushes the pin back and the the barrel moves anywhere it want when you tighten up the delivery valve holder

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Does this mean I broke the pin? I did turn it till it seemed to drop in all the way. I looked in the housing and didn't see anything.

[ulpilot45]

Doesn't mean you broke the pin most of the time it just pushes back out of the bore. Some pumps dont have any pins to hold the barrel the must be set with test stand at injection shop you can thank the epa for those pumps. If the pin pushed back you must remove the pump to tap it back with a pin punch .on rare time it will break housing when not lined up right

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[ulpilot45]

If you look at your exploded view the fuel adjuster has the pin but number one cyl only uses a pin pressed into the housing

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[Valmika]

Originally Posted by ulpilot45

Doesn't mean you broke the pin most of the time it just pushes back out of the bore. Some pumps dont have any pins to hold the barrel the must be set with test stand at injection shop you can thank the epa for those pumps. If the pin pushed back you must remove the pump to tap it back with a pin punch .on rare time it will break housing when not lined up right

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app

So if I can't see the pin I need to pull the pump? If I do that do I need to do gear timing and all that.

[Mutt]

My owners manual states that the injector pumps are not user repairable. Mine was leaking and I took it into a repair shop and for $150 it works perfectly. Most mechanics can recommend a shop to repair injector pumps.

[Valmika]

Originally Posted by Mutt

My owners manual states that the injector pumps are not user repairable. Mine was leaking and I took it into a repair shop and for $150 it works perfectly. Most mechanics can recommend a shop to repair injector pumps.

Thanks Mutt. Is yours a Westerbeke 42? Did you pull the pump yourself? The shop that did my injectors will do the pump. I am just not sure f the can set the pump timing when it is not on the engine. My concern is that they rebuild it and I install it incorrectly.

[Mutt]

Yes I removed the pump myself. Keep and reuse the copper shim under the pump. It is your timing adjustment. Timing should be the same after installation as before.

[Valmika]

Originally Posted by Mutt

Yes I removed the pump myself. Keep and reuse the copper shim under the pump. It is your timing adjustment. Timing should be the same after installation as before.

Thank you Mutt, Do you have any other hints. I think I will tackle it this weekend. It kind of looks like intake manifold might be in the way.

Cheers

Mark

[Mutt]

Just don't loose the small spring and clips inside the engine and get new copper washers for the banjo fuel fitting. The repair shop will have the washers.

[capt jgw]

If that pump is like the one on my Universal, and it looks very similar, the pipe nuts are actually adjustment nuts. If you crank them down tight the injection will be way off. I messed with mine for a while and couldn't get it to run. Took it into a local diesel injection shop and they replaced the springs and set it up correctly. The nuts now have dabs of paint indicating the correct position. Runs like a top now. The timing did not change so all I had to do was bolt it back on. Getting the governor rod back in was a little tricky.

[ulpilot45]

Hey mark if you pull the pump and keep the shims the same you can put the pump back and still be in time the position of the barrel sets the amount of fuel per cylinder the pin on number one cylinder is the fixed setting that all the other cylinders are matched to keep the parts with the hole they come put of and you will be fine

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[ulpilot45]

Oh and mark for what its worth i own a fuel injection shop just trying to save you a little money

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