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Old 18-07-2012, 16:36   #1
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W30 Injection pump woes

Hi,
The trusty Westerbeke/Perkins has dealt me another blow. It has developed an ever increasing leak from the fuel injection pump that is up to 1 drop per second. Obviously not cool. The leak seems to be coming from the junction of the distribution cylinder and the main body of the fuel pump. So, I am all set to pull it, but have run into the following issues with the reinstall event described in the Westerbeke shop manual:
1. Manual makes reference to a timing index that is not installed on my engine.
2. Manual makes reference to a timing gauge (18G629) that I do not have.
3. There are no rotational timing marks on the flywheel.

I have read some of the related posts on other engines and see that others have simply marked the mating position of the pump with the crankcase and then reinstalled when they got the pump back. I realize that the pump shaft is keyed to fit the drive but feel that you could have only a one in four chance of mating the pump back on the exact right cycle it was removed. Is that true? Is there a remote chance that the drive ratios are such that as long as I don't turn the engine over after I removed the pump that I could take an overhauled unit and stick it on? I realize that this is a tractor engine, but my previous diesel pump work has been on a mercedes where you rotate the pump while loosely fitted to the engine to achieve a drip rate out of the #1injection port. Lots more involved and precise.
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Old 19-07-2012, 05:21   #2
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Re: W30 Injection pump woes

W30 Technical Manual ➥ http://www.westerbeke.com/OnlineManu...ech_Manual.pdf

All Westerbeke Manualswesterbeke, marine generators, engines, Official Site
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Old 19-07-2012, 06:43   #3
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Re: W30 Injection pump woes

Gord,
Thanks for the link. I do have that info already in paper and my question is:
1. Manual makes reference to a timing index that is not installed on my engine.
2. Manual makes reference to a timing gauge (18G629) that I do not have.
3. There are no rotational timing marks on the flywheel.
Looks like I am hosed until I at least find a flywheel index to mount??
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Old 19-07-2012, 09:16   #4
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Re: W30 Injection pump woes

with respect to 2. Mark it yourself. Scribe the position of the fuel pump flange with respect to block.
with respect to 3. i find it hard to believe timing marks are not on gears. But even if they are not. DO NOT rotate the engine while pump is out. Or scribe the position of ALL gears as you are about the take the pump out.

On my CAV DPA distributor type pump(should be same as yours) keyway is slotted such way that you cannot install in any other way but correct. so you have 0% chance to put it in backwards. In case your keyway is not slotted that way, there are mating slots much the way gas engine distributor has gears. That would make install, as complex as initial timing for gas engine distributor. You can still do fine adjustments while running by loosening the pump bolts and trying to rotate it few degrees either way. But its a pain in the ass, as its not sparkplug wires but high pressure stainless steel hoses.
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Old 19-07-2012, 11:27   #5
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Re: W30 Injection pump woes

Thanks a lot. Sounds as if the drive ration of the fuel injection system is such that 360' of rotation equals a delivery to all 4 cylinders; this should be doable with marking the mounting flange.
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Old 07-02-2013, 07:50   #6
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Re: W30 Injection pump woes

kind of an old thread, but thought I would reply for others following in our wake. My knowledge is limited to this particular pump. Seal kit on eBay is $25 and has all the parts you need, with a pile of leftovers.

The leak is indeed between the main body and the hydraulic head (distribution cylinder). There is a small O-ring. It can be replaced without disturbing the timing or governor mechanism or the high precision parts. Keep all the parts rust free by submersion in clean diesel.

Remove the cable bracket and cables. I found it easiest to completely remove the fuel lines to the injectors. The banjo bolts that attach the fuel lines to the head do not need to be removed, but they can be if you think they are leaking. Then disconnect the inflow fuel line to the end plate and remove the end plate. Inside there are 2 vanes for the fuel transfer pump and an eccentric silver liner. If you pull the rubber seal it makes removing the vanes and eccentric piece easier. The cross slotted pice needs to come off. It removes counterclockwise. I cut a piece of 1/8" steel about the width and it came off easy. Don't bugger up the edges with a screwdriver, etc. Stick a clean towel in the hole.
Remove the governor mechanism off the top. Removing this piece is intimidating as the bolts are safety wired and have a lead crimp seal. Fear not, the wire is only to keep them from loosening, not a critical adjustment. If they loosen, the governor rises up, not only causing a leak, but also potentially preventing the stop lever from working. It is held in place with 2 bolts. There are different head types, mine had a 12 point 1/4" head, so you need either a 12 point socket or box wrench. Most common this size are unfortunately 6 point. Lift it strait up, it has a finely machined surface. Keep crap out of the empty hole once removed.

Once the governor is off, it makes access to the main body bleeder bolt (aft side) and fuel pressure cutoff switch easy. They have to come out completely.

Next is the advance device off the bottom. One little 1/2" cap nut closet to the block first, then the big 3/4". The big one has a little detent ball that will potentially fall out, so be prepared to catch it. There is an extra in the seal kit if it gets away.

Now you are ready to remove the hydraulic head. Twist will loosen it up. Look inside the governor hole to see it start to move. I had to whack the banjo bolts with a plastic mallet to start it moving. As it comes off, try to keep the rotor in the pump body by pushing on the shaft that the fuel pump cross piece attaches to. If it comes out, replace it promptly, the shaft is keyed so it only fits one way. I had one banjo bolt that I could not remove, so I had to completely remove the hydraulic head. I suspect if all the banjos are removed, that the head does not need to come off completely to slide a new O ring in place.

Once replaced, reassemble in reverse order, twisting to get the hydraulic head in. A little diesel lubes the Oring to make it easier. The rotation of the head into the body is critical in getting all the pieces to fit. Use the bleeder bolt and switch bolt as guides, they should go in easy by hand. Use all the new gaskets and sealing washers in the kit.

There is a new safety wire and crimp for the governor so it looks "official".
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