Volvo Penta MD17c governor

[unbusted67]

Hey all,

Has anyone done any major surgery on a volvo penta md17c? I had a seized injection pump that required I remove my gear case housing on the back of the engine. I am putting things back together and I can't seem to figure out how the governor goes back in, specifically the termination point of the spring that attaches to the governor arm. The engine schematic and workshop manual have offered no help.

-B

[DougR]

Well, its been a long time since I had anything to do with an MD17 governor....

My recollection is that the front end of the spring connects to linkage arm #5, as shown in the parts breakdown. This is the arm that goes from the throttle shaft to the fuel pump rack.

The aft end of the spring hooks into a small hole in the timing case which is covered up by the governor cover.

DougR

[unbusted67]

Originally Posted by unbusted67

Hey all,

Has anyone done any major surgery on a volvo penta md17c? I had a seized injection pump that required I remove my gear case housing on the back of the engine. I am putting things back together and I can't seem to figure out how the governor goes back in, specifically the termination point of the spring that attaches to the governor arm. The engine schematic and workshop manual have offered no help.

-B

I think the part I am talking about is the tensioner spring.

[jimbunyard]

To perhaps enable y'all to get on the same page...

[unbusted67]

Originally Posted by jimbunyard

To perhaps enable y'all to get on the same page...

Thanks Jim, I appreciate bay. the part i’m talking about is number 11 in the second picture. I’ve spent hours looking at all of these diagrams and can’t seem to figure what that attaches to.

[jimbunyard]

As Doug suggests, check for a tiny hole near the middle on the underside of arm 5 for one end of the spring and for tab with a hole in it on the housing an appropriate distance from where the other end of the spring mounts.

There is often an 'it only goes one way' trick to reassembling these delicate mechanisms...

[DougR]

If you have an MD17 c/d workshop manual, go to page 32 and look at the drawing titled “ checking the control rod travel”. Immediately below the letter “B” in the drawing you see a little loop, which is a representation of the end of the governor spring inserted in a small hole drilled directly in the timing case.

DougR

[unbusted67]

Originally Posted by DougR

If you have an MD17 c/d workshop manual, go to page 32 and look at the drawing titled “ checking the control rod travel”. Immediately below the letter “B” in the drawing you see a little loop, which is a representation of the end of the governor spring inserted in a small hole drilled directly in the timing case.

DougR

You are a champ. Thanks Doug.

[Patrick of M]

Originally Posted by unbusted67

You are a champ. Thanks Doug.

Old post I know...
I'm in a similar situation....any chance you are still here and have a link toa decent manual.
Most I have found are abridged and low on details....n9t sure what manual you guys are using.
By the way, my governor is seized probably....looks like I need to take the transmission and the rear cover off if I want to service it, is this correct?

[DougR]

I don’t have a link to the factory manual, but I do have the manual......that said, it’s a pretty skimpy manual info wise!

Frankly I don’t know if you can get the governor assembly out of the timing case without removing the timing case from the block.....but I doubt the flyweight assembly with the gear will make it out of the opening. Are you sure the governor is seized? Does the engine run?

[Patrick of M]

Thanks for your reply.
Sure seems seized......there is an access port(rubber plug) on the left side of the engine, tried gently prying the weights apart, but as I really don't get the specifics of the governor, I didn't go crazy. So far It have pulled the pump to free up the supply slider, and the rollers on the bottom were seized as well, some careful turning, penetration oil, turning got to them feeling good, the pump is pumping....
This engine sat for 20 yrs in a boat on the hard, dry outdoor shed, so some condensation damage everywhere.
U are of course correct, I should run it first and see, but the directive to "make sure the center pin of governor moves freely" has me worried, so far nothing small has moved freely.
1500hrs motor, I went through the injectors they were all good after a clean and a twiddle.
I'm just thinking worst case, not the worst engine room , but the block will need to be strapped up if the cover needs to come off, as the mount brackets are attached.....
Just thinking worst case and if it's seized didn't want to have to do that.
Cheers.

[DougR]

When you try to pry the weights apart you are compressing the two large springs, one on each side of the weights, so there will be some resistance.

The plunger moves in and out in response to the weight position, but with the inj.pump removed you should be able to move the plunger with very little effort. Only resistance will be from the soft spring on the throttle arm.

[Patrick of M]

1.Are we talking about the plunger on the end of the governor little silver rod?
Even with the back cover off, the throttle paddle (?) thingy makes it hard to get at.
2. About how much pressure do you think is required to push the weights apart?
It's weird how there is so little in the way of documentation for these engines.
Mine came with a glorified owners manual, but still shows how to tune injectors etc..but no torque specs, and precious little in the way of order of operations for disassembly etc....
I can work it out, but it's not the easiest engine to figure.... especially those very light weight springs in the governor/pump area. Unhook one of those by accident and who knows!?!

[Patrick of M]

I'm bumping this as I really could do with an answer.

Specifically: through the access hole, how much force required to pry apart the governor springs?
If I need toffee them up manually I have to take the transmission and timing case off...bit of pita

[DougR]

I don’t think that there is a specification for the amount of force necessary to move the weights apart, as this is not something that would normally be done. That said, I think a flat screw driver blade between the weights should be able to be twisted without too much effort. If the weights don’t move at all they are probably seized or rusted in place.