Cruisers Forum
 


Join CruisersForum Today

Reply
 
Thread Tools Rate Thread Display Modes
Old 11-05-2014, 12:34   #16
Nearly an old salt
 
goboatingnow's Avatar

Cruisers Forum Supporter

Join Date: Jun 2009
Posts: 13,649
Images: 3
Re: Volvo Penta D2 40 - opinions

Quote:
I change out every spring all filters and syn oil, fuel filters as well. So on my part, I do it. On their part, they've dropped the ball big time as far as I'm concerned. It does run well, great economy, forget the service, too costly, as well as parts as stated.

I think you could apply that paragraph to most modern high performance marine engines

dave
__________________

__________________
Check out my new blog on smart boat technology, networking and gadgets for the connected sailor! - http://smartboats.tumblr.com
goboatingnow is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 19-12-2014, 03:09   #17
Registered User

Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 26
Images: 5
Re: Volvo Penta D2 40 - opinions

Quote:
Originally Posted by oem View Post
Doesn't sound good, - since I just bought a brand new D2-40. It has 0.7 hours up to now

At least I'm aware of the problem now.

Could something be done to prevent the failure? An o-ring (possibly a better one than the original) should be rather cheap to replace, if it's possible technically? What would you do in my position?
If I were you, I would completely cover with a thin layer of Jb Weld or some thing similar to coat the cast iron surfaces as to seal it so the salt water cannot eat the sealing surfaces. Had I'd known this was an issue, that's what I would do. Like just use your finger to apply enough to cover up to the inside of the sealing surface. May be if you can under the o-ring as well. Put the cap on while pliable, just to make sure you get it seated and sealed with the o-ring in place. Cast iron (block) does not like salt water. Good luck, Rollo
__________________

__________________
Rolloh is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 19-12-2014, 12:20   #18
cruiser

Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: North Charleston, SC
Boat: Camano Troll
Posts: 4,669
Re: Volvo Penta D2 40 - opinions

Quote:
Originally Posted by Boatwayupnorth View Post
Hi all,
I'm looking at a used boat with a brand new Volvo Penta diesel (D2 40 EVC MS 15). I have heard some not so good stories about the smaller Volvo Penta diesels (e.g. on this forum) and am a bit leery towards them. Therefore my question: Has anybody first hand experience with this motor?
Regards
Walter
If Volvo (Penta) marine engines were as bad as some Internet experts think they are, Volvo would have gone out of business many years ago.

Somehow, despite all the Internet critics, they not only remain in business, they seem to be doing quite well, selling engines and drive systems to many boat manufacturers.

My TAMD41P has a leaking water pump">raw water pump after 3600 hrs. As far as I know, this is the first mechanical failure. I'm planning on keeping the engine and rebuilding the pump.
__________________
rwidman is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 19-12-2014, 12:56   #19
Registered User
 
NoTies's Avatar

Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Vanuatu
Boat: Whiting 29' extended "Nightcap"
Posts: 1,378
Images: 2
Re: Volvo Penta D2 40 - opinions

The TAMD series were good engine. Volvo stays in business now because they sell their engines cheap.
__________________
Pete

Positively, socially deviant.
NoTies is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 19-12-2014, 13:09   #20
Registered User

Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 26
Images: 5
Re: Volvo Penta D2 40 - opinions

Don't get me wrong I think the Volvo is a wonderful engine and I love mine it's quiet efficient and a very compact unit however it does have some pitfalls mainly in the design of the exhaust port as well as the fresh water cooling system
__________________
Rolloh is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 19-12-2014, 13:15   #21
cruiser

Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Ocean Springs, MS
Posts: 279
Re: Volvo Penta D2 40 - opinions

Some info, I believe I got it via a post here at CF, in regards Volvo and who builds them:

" Jun 14 Hi Michael,
I just got in from teaching another class, this one at the wooden boat school in Port Townsend. Strange, but I was thinking about you earlier today, then here comes your email.
Those filters are getting easier to find, if you know where to look, and this is why:
Your engine is what Perkins calls a 103-10. Perkins started importing these 100 series engines from a Japanese company called Ishikawajima Shibaura Machinery, Ltd. nearly twenty years ago. ISM is part of Ishikawajima Harima Industries, one of Japan’s largest industrial companies. Perkins marketed this engine in a marinized version as the Perama M30. They sold the engine to Volvo Penta who marketed it as their MD2030. They also sold the engine to Massey Ferguson, McCormick, Terramite, Textron, Jacobsen, Cushman, Vermeer, Leech Lewis, JCB, Kobelco, and Northern Lights to name just a few. In the US, the engine was distributed thru Detroit Diesel – Allison which is closely tied to the MTU conglomerate. By 1996, Perkins had become so successful at marketing these engines to other equipment manufacturers that they formed a joint venture with ISM called Perkins Shibaura Engines, Ltd. and began assembling the engines at the Perkins facility in Peterborough, UK from parts shipped from Japan. In 1997, Perkins was acquired by Caterpillar. With an added boost from Caterpillar, this little engine has become one of the most popular engines in the world. It’s used in turf equipment, tractors, mini-excavators, brush choppers, compressors, welders, pumps, generators, etc. etc. etc. Even Caterpillar uses it in some of their smaller equipment. The “Perkins” name was highlighted on the engine ID plate which is located on a distinctive boss just forward of the injection pump. The 2006 model year’s production of the engine has “Shibaura” highlighted on the ID plate. In 2001, the larger Shibaura 400 series engine was introduced with assembling at Peterborough, UK from parts mostly from Japan, and in June, 2004 assembling of the 400 series engine began at a Caterpillar

facility in Griffin, Georgia, USA with production exceeding 100,000 units per year.
Perkins’ current part number for the oil filter is 140517050 and sells here in Kent, WA at Perkins Pacific for $6.85. At least that was the price a couple of months ago. All the earlier Perkins oil filter part numbers for this series of engine have superseded to this number. And all the engines in this series (two, three, and four cylinder 100 series) are supposed to take the same filter. I believe that Volvo’s part number is or was 834337. The filter should be readily available from any of the other equipment manufacturer’s using the engine including Caterpillar, and from many of the major filter manufacturers.
I think the numbers you had were:
Oil Filter = Fleetguard LF3826 or LF3376, Wix 51335, Fram PH3512, NAPA FIL1335.
Diesel Filter = Fleetguard LF5114, Wix 33386, Fram P3627, NAPA FIL3386, Volvo 861477-8?.
Disclaimer: Before using any parts suggested here, check them out for yourself, I could be mistook.
NEXT
Forgive the long post but I can't help myself, someone may enjoy it, and I'm a nut (of the diesel variety) that just loves this stuff. I might mention that I use "Ode De diesel #2" cologne.
The are many many factors at play here and "base" timing is just one. It's actually a minor one that is fairly easy to control when we're talking about alt fuels and fuel additives. Ernie is right Micheal that the BOI "beginning of injection" on a diesel engine is the controlling factor for "base timing", not the heat in the cylinder, where moment of ignition (spark) controls this in a SI engine. Of course if we want to get deep enough into theory and discuss the actual "ignition lag period" which IS affected by cylinder temps (therefore water temp, air temp, etc.) but these change all the time and over the life of the engine and only vary the actual BOI little.
Although the heat for ignition is provided via the temperature of the compressed air in the cylinder at BOI, on both SI (spark ignition) engines (I.e. gasoline) and CI (compression ignition) engines (I.e. diesel due to it's credited inventor, Rudolf Diesel) much more is happening than just "when the flame front starts" which is what you're talking about. The real complications come when you begin to look at the ignition event on a millisecond time line after combustion begins. Diesel fuel, as well as carrying much more BTU value, is a much more stable fuel, from the point of flame propagation, than the fuels used in SI engines, including gasoline, methanol, blends thereof, etc. The main destructive factor re: fuel in a SI engine is detonation... you know that "knock sound" or what has been called many things including, "the valves knocking" which is totally misleading. Well it's actually the meeting of two (or possibly more) flame fronts in the cylinder.
*One is created via the spark plug. (This is the one we want, hopefully at the time we wanted it.)
*The second one is crated via compression ignition shortly thereafter (remember milliseconds time line here), due to the pressure wave produced by the first flame front. This has A LOT to do with cylinder temps as well as many other factors including combustion chamber design, and most important in this conversation is: the fuel! I.e. low octane/low lead fuels in high temp/ high compression engines. When these two flame fronts meet the resulting "knock" you hear is produced but a pressure spike that can literally destroy the engine. I.e. broken rings, broken ring lands, melted pistons, scored cylinder walls, etc. NOW: Your "expensive diesel engine" is for one, a damn site tougher than your "expensive gas engine" and it is much much more tolerant to alternate fuels use than a gas engine. Take a look into the military's multi-fuel diesels. A diesel will actually burn damn near anything very well if you can get it injected into the cylinders. (Look into the heavy fuel diesel engines that burn "bunker-C" and the use of coal/fuel slurry in diesels. You see the lower you get in the crude oil frack, the more BTUs are in the fuel. The problem is getting them to burn and release this energy in the time allotted. This is why a diesel produces much more torque (what actually turns the shaft) that can a gas engine. However, since it takes more time for diesel fuel to burn and release this energy, the combustion event must occur at a slower
pace I.e. lower RPM. This also adds to it's efficiency as it gets more time to actually shove on the piston while the crank throw is at an angle where you can actually "use" the energy. Think about it... a 4cycle engine must turn 720 degrees for one power event of each cylinder. Of this 720, the power stroke is only 180 degrees of it. Of this 180 degrees that we can have a 'fire in er', no matter how much pressure we put on the piston at the actual top or the bottom of the stroke, it won't produce ANY turning force since the crank throw is either straight up or straight down. At only 90 degrees will it produce maximum turning force and at all other points of the stroke the energy will be sacrificed in relation to the angle of the crank throw. I.e. at 45 degrees you will only extract 1/2 of what ever energy is possible. Think about it... A diesel turning at low speeds has much more time to actually shove on the piston and much more energy available in the fuel.
You know I sure would have enjoyed this more over a few beers...
BTW: "tetraethyl lead" did have some cushioning effects on the valve seat surfaces, (not really a lubricant at all) but was used more as a controlling additive in all this process. Other additives have helped replace it now but they didn't help out the valve seats much. See:
Lead TetraEthyl and MTBE
BTW: "sulfur" damn sure was not a good thing in diesel fuel and sure as hell wasn't a lubricant. The process used to remove it however, did result in a diesel fuel that had lubricity problems. See:
Stanadyne White Paper on Diesel Fuel
In the category of helpful tips I post this every once in a while. Primarily cause we V-P owners grouse about the high cost of V-P parts. The source is Larry Blais, diesel guru, instructor, surveyor and author. At the bottom is the filter cross reference numbers that will make your budget smile! This engine is made/sold by 20 or so manufacturers you may have one and not know it...Read on.
" blaismarine@aol.com to me
More options Jun 14
Hi Michael,

I just got in from teaching another class, this one at the wooden boat school in Port Townsend. Strange, but I was thinking about you earlier today, then here comes your email.
Those filters are getting easier to find, if you know where to look, and this is why:
Your engine is what Perkins calls a 103-10. Perkins started importing these 100 series engines from a Japanese company called Ishikawajima Shibaura Machinery, Ltd. nearly twenty years ago. ISM is part of Ishikawajima Harima Industries, one of Japan’s largest industrial companies. Perkins marketed this engine in a marinized version as the Perama M30. They sold the engine to Volvo Penta who marketed it as their MD2030. They also sold the engine to Massey Ferguson, McCormick, Terramite, Textron, Jacobsen, Cushman, Vermeer, Leech Lewis, JCB, Kobelco, and Northern Lights to name just a few. In the US, the engine was distributed thru Detroit Diesel – Allison which is closely tied to the MTU conglomerate. By 1996, Perkins had become so successful at marketing these engines to other equipment manufacturers that they formed a joint venture with ISM called Perkins Shibaura Engines, Ltd. and began assembling the engines at the Perkins facility in Peterborough, UK from parts shipped from Japan. In 1997, Perkins was acquired by Caterpillar. With an added boost from Caterpillar, this little engine has become one of the most popular engines in the world. It’s used in turf equipment, tractors, mini-excavators, brush choppers, compressors, welders, pumps, generators, etc. etc. etc. Even Caterpillar uses it in some of their smaller equipment. The “Perkins” name was highlighted on the engine ID plate which is located on a distinctive boss just forward of the injection pump. The 2006 model year’s production of the engine has “Shibaura” highlighted on the ID plate. In 2001, the larger Shibaura 400 series engine was introduced with assembling at Peterborough, UK from parts mostly from Japan, and in June, 2004 assembling of the 400 series engine began at a Caterpillar facility in Griffin, Georgia, USA with production exceeding 100,000 units per year.
Perkins’ current part number for the oil filter is 140517050 and sells here in Kent, WA at Perkins Pacific for $6.85. At least that was the price a couple of months ago. All the earlier Perkins oil filter part numbers for this series of engine have superseded to this number. And all the engines in this series (two, three, and
four cylinder 100 series) are supposed to take the same filter. I believe that Volvo’s part number is or was 834337. The filter should be readily available from any of the other equipment manufacturer’s using the engine including Caterpillar, and from many of the major filter manufacturers.
Oil Filter = Fleetguard LF3826 or LF3376, Wix 51335, Fram PH3512, NAPA FIL1335.
Diesel Filter = Fleetguard LF5114, Wix 33386, Fram P3627, NAPA FIL3386, Volvo 861477-8?.
Disclaimer: Before using any parts suggested here, check them out for yourself."
Larry teaches a lot of classes for UDUB in Seattle and the Wooden Boat School at Port Townsend. Also writes for DIY. _________________
THIRD
Because of the recent post on a hard starting westerbeke and my previous training against the use of anything that might unduly influence the combustion point of the engine unless you know what it is and how it will act I found out about WD40. Posted a notice for more information in the marine diesel BBS and received the following. The first is from powertech down in the Florida Keys. The second is the sticky note from the BBS administrators. The spelling is entirely not mine but to the education (and thanks for telling me about WD40) I'll lay claim. This should provide some help to all with diesels.
1. posted in the diesel BBS by powertech
"WD40 is a good diesel starting fluid.
you can use it to help diagnose starting troubles. you just take the air filter or scilencer of and spray it in full blast. you have to use the arisol can type. the liquid in the gallon jug you put in a hand squiter dont work.
i have found that it only works good in non after cooled engines. i only use it in small natural engines.
on larger turbo and especialy aftercooled engines ,teh WD40 falls out of the air and don't make it into the cylinders . .
with wd40 you can squirt the can in there full blast,and run the engine off of it,and cause teh engine no harm.
WD40 will start a diesel engine ,but teh diesel has to have some
fuel being injected. it can be a weak amount of only a few injectors but it needs something to run and stay running.
say you have a motor with some crusty valve seats that will not start couse teh compresion is low. you just crank and crank teh motor over while spraying WD40 into it and after a while it just might start. if it does not,well then you know it is sick.
say you have a motor that just don't want to blead well you can spray wd40 down it's throat and get it to run ,to clear it out or whatever.
it is a good way to easyly and quickly see if a motor is sick and tired or just internaly #$%#ed ...if the damn thing is getting fuel and it wont even run on WD40 you know she is sick.
2. The following is a sticky post in the diesel starting forum of the diesel BBS
"Quoted material begins
Nearly every week customers ask us about how to overcome starting
difficulties with their diesel engine. Nearly as often, the
subject of starting fluids and ether accompanies the conversation. It appears that we all want a quick fix. Instead of getting to the root of the problem we look for a magic potion that will solve the problem in a spray form.
Not only does the use of ether not solve the problem, it also is liable to shorten the life of the engine by causing serious damage. The damage could include cracked piston ring grooves or
the rings and pistons themselves. When a cylinder fires from normal injection, the fuel burns for the entire stroke of the piston. Ether explodes when the compression gets it hot enough and that could be well before the piston is at the top of its compression stroke and the forces exerted are well beyond the design of the engine.
Our recommendation is simple. Stay away from ether.
There are a number of things that must be right to start any engine, especially on the first try of the day. Here is a summary list you should consider (not in any specific order): 1 - Valves should be properly adjusted
2 - Starter motor must be in good condition - after years of service, it is not unlikely that there is wear in the starter motor that slows its speed. Slow speed can be critical to cold
starts.
3 - Battery - if it is nearing the end of its life or wasn't
rated properly to begin with, it could be the cause of slower starter motor speed. Batteries must be of good quality and
fully charged.
4 - Battery cables must be properly sized and in good condition. All connectors should be clean. Tight connection does not always mean a good connection. Failing wires and/or the connections could result in reduced power to the starter motor
5 - Lubricating oil should be to specification.
6 - Fuel octane level should be 45 or higher. A good quality
fuel is an important part of running your diesel engine.
7 - The end of the fuel return line should be submerged in fuel. 8 - Injection timing - very critical and the most difficult to correct. This should be the last thing to evaluate and correct.
If evaluation and correction of the above doesn't give the
results you want, the symptoms are those of lowered compression.
A compression test, made with the proper tester, can confirm this. You may even want to do this before trying to set the injection timing.
In the mean time - if you have access to electrical power, try putting the output of a hair dryer into the air inlet on the
engine for a few minutes before the first start of the day. It
can work wonders, but it won't correct your problems.
Hard starting can be attributed to a number of reasons, including compression, HP fuel pump, fuel, air intake, injector, injection timing, etc.
If you have used ether, there is a good chance that you have broken a piston or possibly a piston ring. Try taking the compression with your rubber nosed compression tester. If you can
hold it in the hole, your compression is too low. You are looking for pressures that approach 400PSIG and it takes a pretty sophisticated set-up to read it. "
URL for the diesel forum is: Torresen Marine, Inc. - Sailing and Boating Forums • Index page
FOURTH
VOLVO ENGINE MANUALS

MD1B, MD2B, MD3B Workshop Manual (10 MB) MD5A Workshop Manual (2.3 MB)
MD6A Owners Manual (4.1MB)
MD6A & MD7A Workshop Manual (1.6 MB) MD11C&D & MD17C&D Workshop Manual (3.1 MB) 2002 Owners Manual (3.8 MB)
2002 Workshop Manual (5.5 MB) 2010-20-30-40 Workshop Manual (2.3 MB) OTHER ENGINE MANUALS Perkins-4.107,_4.108 and 4.99 (14.8MB) Bukh DV10 Owners Manual (2.6MB) Yanmar GM Series Owners Manual (0.2MB)
http://www.bluemoment.com/manuals/Vo...0-20-30-40.pdf
"
__________________
jaybird1111 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 19-12-2014, 13:25   #22
Registered User

Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 26
Images: 5
Re: Volvo Penta D2 40 - opinions

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rolloh View Post
Don't get me wrong I think the Volvo is a wonderful engine and I love mine it's quiet efficient and a very compact unit however it does have some pitfalls mainly in the design of the exhaust port as well as the fresh water cooling system
I know of 1 gentleman that has the same problem that I have with the D 2 series engine. Unfortunately Volvo has not responded with a fix or replacement for either of us. Being used primarily in sailboats we tend not to use our engines that frequently. He has 30 total running hours on his D2-40 I have 353 hours on mine it is a 2007
__________________
Rolloh is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 19-12-2014, 13:39   #23
Registered User

Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 26
Images: 5
Re: Volvo Penta D2 40 - opinions

I think a fresh water flush after each use is paramount. Should be easy to do with some one way valving and diligence.
__________________
Rolloh is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 17-01-2016, 11:09   #24
Registered User

Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 15
Re: Volvo Penta D2 40 - opinions

JUNK JUNK AGAIN JUNK..
I have had every problem mentioned here from corroded manifold to FOUR MDI black boses going bad. AND saildrive maintenace is a nightmare as well. When it doesget water in the shaft seal you have to haul the boat to replace them.
I am in the process of replacing the whole MDI EVC system with standard guages.
__________________
sailingallover is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 20-01-2016, 11:57   #25
Registered User

Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 26
Images: 5
Re: Volvo Penta D2 40 - opinions

To your response, we should all file a class action suit against Volvo for their poorly designed heat exchanger config. They as I said before, (D2 Sires) will all fail well below the thousands of hours that they should take with ease. An 1/8" O-Ring is not going to keep the hot salt water from eating away to the fresh water coolant side.
Just my two cents.......
__________________
Rolloh is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 20-01-2016, 12:45   #26
Registered User

Join Date: Nov 2012
Posts: 15
Re: Volvo Penta D2 40 - opinions

Im in on any lawsuit that about the heat exchanger or the MDI failure.
__________________
sailingallover is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-02-2016, 00:09   #27
Registered User

Join Date: Jan 2012
Posts: 26
Images: 5
Re: Volvo Penta D2 40 - opinions

When enough of them fail (Poor Design) maybe it will happen. My repair has held for over a year. I also run the salt water dry (closed seacock) when shutting down every time as to help stop the problem. Its a pain in the ass for sure, but it has worked to date as stop gap.
Rollo
__________________
Rolloh is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 12-02-2016, 20:22   #28
Registered User

Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Prince Rupert
Boat: samson c-mist 32
Posts: 98
Images: 5
Re: Volvo Penta D2 40 - opinions

Well this is discouraging to read...

I have not been on this forum for a while, life got in the way of my sailboat project & now I'm finally getting back to it.

My engine story is a bit of a nightmare...

I bought my D2-40 new in 2008. After I unstalled it I got busy on the rest of the boat. It ran very nice. Then I read about some EVC issues, so my dealer did get me the updated one. This is the first I have heard of the corrosion issue, I'm guessing that it could be coated to help with this issue, & replacing it with standard gauges is an interesting option also.

So one day I decide to start the engine and because the fuel tank is above the engine, it is completely flooded with fuel!!! Obviously I should have installed an anti-siphone valve above my fuel tank. I did have shut off valve, but I forgot to shut it off...( So after flushing out the engine with fresh oil I can't get it to start...
Frustrated and busy with a house project, I leave it. At this point the engine has 15 hours.

I know that I am to blame for this & my ignorance has cost me big time. Because the engine did not start, I did not realize that the water in the muffler box could drain back into the engine!( Ya, no exhaust riser. Could have drained the box, but did not realize what could happen. So ya...when I decided to come back months later the engine is seized solid #*$$$#$!!((

So.....I finally decide the best way to deal with this is to buy another engine without gear, and at least I have a full set of spare parts & will not make the same mistakes again. Decide to check for any other issues & come across this thread.

If I buy another engine it will be more $ & I also need a left hand turning gear, or change my Prop. which would be more $...

It does run very nice, would be plug & play, & if I flush system out, & have a spare heat exchanger.. what would you guys do?
__________________
emeraldsea is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 16-02-2016, 15:42   #29
Registered User

Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Prince Rupert
Boat: samson c-mist 32
Posts: 98
Images: 5
Re: Volvo Penta D2 40 - opinions

So I ordered a new D2-40 without gear. The original will be a winter rebuild project. If it's worth fixing then perhaps I will see about getting it going without the "black box".

I'm going to make sure the EVC is protected from moisture & I'm going to T in a flush line into the raw water line so I can keep the heat exchanger flushed when not in use.
__________________
emeraldsea is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 17-12-2016, 15:28   #30
Registered User

Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 21
Re: Volvo Penta D2 40 - opinions

Is the heat exchanger design on the D1-30 the same as the D2-40 ?
__________________

__________________
Slowtack is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Tags
penta, volvo

Thread Tools
Display Modes Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
'02 Volvo Penta Engine S Campbell Engines and Propulsion Systems 91 19-08-2014 05:56
Volvo Penta Parts w1651 Construction, Maintenance & Refit 8 16-03-2011 19:22
Volvo Penta D2-55 eodjet Engines and Propulsion Systems 3 06-03-2011 13:46
Volvo Penta Manuals seagasm Engines and Propulsion Systems 6 11-08-2010 15:36
Volvo-Penta MD3B GordMay Engines and Propulsion Systems 6 14-01-2004 23:37



Copyright 2002- Social Knowledge, LLC All Rights Reserved.

All times are GMT -7. The time now is 21:40.


Google+
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Social Knowledge Networks
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.

ShowCase vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.