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Old 28-03-2015, 11:52   #1
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Volvo Penta D1-30a Regulation System

I have a 2005 Volvo D1-30a diesel engine that at some point during the last year had the regulation system replaced with the regulation system for a Volvo Penta D 2030b system and then jury rigged to work. Obviously not a good combination, but it made the engine appear to be in good condition through the sale process, was unknown to me at that time and got through the survey and engine surveys we had done. It has now failed and regardless of the ethics of this situation, I need to get this engine fixed and running again.

We have ordered all the internal parts to reconfigure the regulation system back to the original D1-30a system, however we really need a video or pictures of what that D1-30a regulation system looks like when installed in the housing. The shop manual does not have this and is somewhat vague. Does anyone know where we might find some pictures or video of what the regulation system (governor) looks like internally? This would really help with the installation.
Thanks
Rod
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File Type: pdf Volvo D1-30a Regulation System.PDF (470.3 KB, 144 views)
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Old 28-03-2015, 13:55   #2
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Re: Volvo Penta D1-30a Regulation System

Hello Rod,

It's a little tricky assembling the governor without having seen how it came apart, but I don't think it's impossible. I don't have a photo of the D1-30 governor, but I could post a photo of the timing case/governor of a d2-55 which is very similar. However I think it is possible to use the photos in the shop manual and get things assembled.

I have two shop manuals for the D1-30.... One is number 7745200 from 2006 and the other is number 47701798 from 2010. Do you have one of these? It will make things easier if we are looking at the same page.

DougR
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Old 28-03-2015, 14:02   #3
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Re: Volvo Penta D1-30a Regulation System

HI Doug,
I have both of those shop manuals in PDF versions.
The picture of the "Similar" installation you have an only help. Thank you for the reply
Rod
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Old 28-03-2015, 14:54   #4
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Re: Volvo Penta D1-30a Regulation System

OK, before going to fotos and trying to post them, let's look at the parts book page you attached and also the 2006 workshop manual on page 65.

You should have a basic understanding from the way the 2030 parts came out, but here are the basics referencing your parts book page item numbers....

Throttle arm #22 should be mounted in the case and held in place with o ring 23 and snap ring 24--the arm with the spring hole goes up as shown on the drawing.
Lever arm 18 should be mounted on pin 10..place lever 18 in the case and feed pin ten into place from outside...o ring and snap ring outside the case.

Spring 25 ( the heavier of the three springs) is connected between lever 18 and the hole on throttle arm 22. This heavy spring transfers throttle movement from 22 to 18 and is the counterbalance for the governor weights.

Spring 20 has two "eyes", one on each end and it hooks on the two holes on lever 18 close to where it's shown in the drawing. You can't see it in the photos on page 65 because it's hidden behind the lever.

Spring 19 has an eye on one end and a "hook" on the other end. It attaches onto the long part of arm 18 with the eye, and hooks into a hole in the gasket surface of the timing case with the hook end. This spring is called the starter spring, as it pulls the linkage and injection pump into the "run" position when the engine isn't running. This spring tends to fall out of it hole in the case during installation, so take a small piece of foam rubber and push it into the hole to keep the spring in place.

Install the stop level as shown in the parts schematic.

What about the fuel control screws #38 and 29....hopefully they haven't been messed with.

Now most of the pieces are in place and you are about ready to install the cover, but first make sure the camshaft regulator sleeve is in place on the front end of the cam shaft, as shown in the center photo on page 64. This sleeve is moved by the governor weights and presses on lever 18 to transfer governor action to the throttle linkage. Make sure the "fork" is engaged with the pin on the governor.


Also make sure that the roll pin in the timing case oil pump recess aligns with the hole in the front of the oil pump...detailed in the lower photo on page 65.

When you install the cover, the stop lever is used to hold all the linkage back into the timing case, and the long linkage arm #18 is fed thru the hole in the block and connected to the rack pin on the injection pump. Don't drop the clip #21 into the crankcase.

OK this is a start....look it over and send questions..

Doug
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Old 28-03-2015, 15:57   #5
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Re: Volvo Penta D1-30a Regulation System

HI Doug,
Please see my remarks in the thread bellow. They are prefaced with Rod:

Quote:
Originally Posted by DougR View Post
OK, before going to fotos and trying to post them, let's look at the parts book page you attached and also the 2006 workshop manual on page 65.

You should have a basic understanding from the way the 2030 parts came out, but here are the basics referencing your parts book page item numbers....

Sorry, I did not take this apart so I don't have that, but the person that did will be helping me through this.

Throttle arm #22 should be mounted in the case and held in place with o ring 23 and snap ring 24--the arm with the spring hole goes up as shown on the drawing.
Lever arm 18 should be mounted on pin 10..place lever 18 in the case and feed pin ten into place from outside...o ring and snap ring outside the case.

Spring 25 ( the heavier of the three springs) is connected between lever 18 and the hole on throttle arm 22. This heavy spring transfers throttle movement from 22 to 18 and is the counterbalance for the governor weights.

Spring 20 has two "eyes", one on each end and it hooks on the two holes on lever 18 close to where it's shown in the drawing. You can't see it in the photos on page 65 because it's hidden behind the lever.

Spring 19 has an eye on one end and a "hook" on the other end. It attaches onto the long part of arm 18 with the eye, and hooks into a hole in the gasket surface of the timing case with the hook end. This spring is called the starter spring, as it pulls the linkage and injection pump into the "run" position when the engine isn't running. This spring tends to fall out of it hole in the case during installation, so take a small piece of foam rubber and push it into the hole to keep the spring in place.

Install the stop level as shown in the parts schematic.

Rod: I follow up to here but cannot identify the "Stop Level" Part, or is that a typo and should read "Stop Lever". Also, what kind of foam rubber would you use to hold spring 19, and is it going to remain in the engine to hold Spring 19 in place? Would a piece of sponge rubber from a kitchen scrubby work?


What about the fuel control screws #38 and 29....hopefully they haven't been messed with.

Rod: I do not know if these have been messed with. I suspect they have as the whole regulation system was a jury rigged " botch job", not my words, of parts from a different engine that were forced or altered to work together. So I can't answer this question.

Now most of the pieces are in place and you are about ready to install the cover, but first make sure the camshaft regulator sleeve is in place on the front end of the cam shaft, as shown in the center photo on page 64. This sleeve is moved by the governor weights and presses on lever 18 to transfer governor action to the throttle linkage. Make sure the "fork" is engaged with the pin on the governor.

Rod: OK, I am not sure of the "Fork" or the "pin" on the governor. Can you identify the Pin as a part on the schematic? Sorry for my ignorance, I am a geologist, not a mechanic, so some of the common knowledge of part names a mechanic or even hobbyist mechanic might know escape me.

Also make sure that the roll pin in the timing case oil pump recess aligns with the hole in the front of the oil pump...detailed in the lower photo on page 65.

When you install the cover, the stop lever is used to hold all the linkage back into the timing case, and the long linkage arm #18 is fed thru the hole in the block and connected to the rack pin on the injection pump. Don't drop the clip #21 into the crankcase.

OK this is a start....look it over and send questions..

Doug
ROD: Doug, this is a fantastic step by step blue print you have given me. I really appreciate the time you have put into this. I will look forward to your replies. Thank you.
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Old 28-03-2015, 18:03   #6
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Re: Volvo Penta D1-30a Regulation System

Rod,
Yes...stop "level" is a typo....it should read "stop lever".

A piece of foam from a scrubbie will probably work OK, but if you have something a bit more firm it might be better. The purpose of the form is just to wedge the spring hook end into the hole in the timing case. When the case is fastened to the front of the engine, the foam and spring end will be captive and unable to escape the hole, so don't worry about it getting loose in the engine.

The "camshaft regulator sleeve" isn't shown on the schematic so doesn't have a number. It sits on the front end of the camshaft and is moved by the governor weights. Study the center photo on page 64 and I think you will recognize what I am talking about, or look at the engine and it will be clear.

It might be that the fuel regulation screws, which are mounted in the engine block below the injection pump, have not been tampered with, but that's something that will have to be explored later. The screws are sealed so hopefully there is no problem with them.

Doug
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Old 28-03-2015, 22:09   #7
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Re: Volvo Penta D1-30a Regulation System

HI Doug, I think I am getting this figured out, thanks to your help. I have attached a Volvo D1-30a Camshaft and Gears Schematic where I can clearly see the Cam Shaft Regulator Sleeve with its Key, part 15. The Pin you are referring to that the key fits into looked like a screw in the middle photo on page 64. So that is where the confusion comes from.

I will also try to find a denser foam than a scrubby sponge to fix the starter spring, snuggly in place, part 19, so that it does not come off when re-attaching the timing cover.

Now, I will try to give you my understanding of how this all comes together.

By holding the Stop Lever down as described in Steps 5 and 6 on page 65, it causes the long arm of the control rod to remain extended as shown in the photo. The control arm is them inserted through the slot marked as "A" on the attached Volvo D1-30a Block Schematic. This slot can also be seen in the middle picture on page 64 directly behind arrow #1 which is pointing to the "lock plate". The trick is to properly position the stop lever and control arm and hold them in position while aligning the Timing Case cover to re attach it. You also must ensure the pin 3 engages the oil pump in hole 4 as shown in Photo 66 page 65 . If I line all these up in their proper positions and make sure the stop Lever is held firmly, everything should mesh and connect. Some questions;

Once the timing case is aligned and in place with bolts finger tight, can I release the Stop Lever, or should it be held until the control arm is connect using the locking Pin. i.e. once the bolts on the timing cover are finger tight, can that control arm or its springs get out of position?

Are there any parts which I have to be aware of that could go out of position or can any of the springs disconnect other than the Throttle spring as already discuss, when attaching the cover?

Any other potential problems to watch out for?

As indicated on the Volvo D1-30a Block Schematic, the control arm goes through Slot "A" and you then access the end of it through Opening "B" to attach it to the fuel system using locking pin 21 (shown on the Fuel Regulation Schematic). Assuming that the person that created this hybrid D1/MD2030b jury rigged system did not alter anything inside opening "B" where the control arm attaches, we should be back to the D1-30a regulation system. We just need to torque down the timing case cover to spec and re-attaché the throttle system.

Have I got it right?

Hopefully no one has adjusted the fuel control screws. Assuming they did not, is there anything else we may need to adjust inside opening "B"?

Are there any further tricks to connecting the regulation system to the throttle cables and subsequent adjustments of that system?


I will look forward to hearing from you and thank you for the coaching!
Rod
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Volvo D1-30a Camshaft and gears.pdf (139.0 KB, 69 views)
File Type: pdf Volvo D1-30a Block Schematic.pdf (117.5 KB, 74 views)
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Old 29-03-2015, 05:53   #8
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Re: Volvo Penta D1-30a Regulation System

Greetings and welcome aboard the CF, Rod.
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Old 29-03-2015, 09:55   #9
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Re: Volvo Penta D1-30a Regulation System

Rod, It sounds as though you have a pretty good handle on the situation.

Once the timing cover is on and finger tight you can release the stop lever because nothing will change then. Plus, the stop lever moves control arm 18 toward the front of the timing case and it will be difficult to connect it to the injection pump rack if you don't release the stop lever. There isn't much else in opening B with the injection pump to cause any problems.

If you had the injection pump all the way off the engine, you have to be sure to replace all the shims/ gaskets that were under the pump flange when the pump was removed. These shims and gaskets control the injection timing and need to be replaced with the original thickness of gaskets.

Once the whole thing is together and running, you will have to adjust the idle speed and also the "high idle" speed. This is done with the external throttle arm and the two adjustment screws and is described in the shop manual.

Best of luck with everything....

DougR
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Old 29-03-2015, 22:44   #10
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Re: Volvo Penta D1-30a Regulation System

HI Doug, when we pulled off the injector pump all we got was a gasket, no shims. So we are at bit of a loss here. At the cost of the shims I am temped to simply order them all as they add up to less than an hour of mechanics time. To you have any suggestions? It looks to me like there is no gasket under the injection pump, just shims, so again this may have been one more component in the jury rigging that was done on the engine. What are the shims made of? Are they metal, or could we have mistaken a shim for the gasket that was removed?

I have attached the injection pump schematic and I am thinking of ordering Part 21 the shims for all 5 part numbers 3887167,*168,*169,*170 and *171. At least that way I will have some if we ever need them on the Port engine, or at the very least, I will have the one we need.

Do you have a better Idea?

Also, we are thinking of using permatex on the timing casing to seal it rather than the gasket, (Part 12 on the Timing Case Sschematic). But hearing and seeing the sensitivity to thickness of the shims under the injection pump have, I am concerned the permatex may not be as thick as the gasket on the timing case cover, which could then cause problems with the length of the control lever and its connection to the injector pump.

Am I being overly cautious?


Thanks
Rod
Attached Files
File Type: pdf D1-30a Volvo Penta Injector Pump Schematic.pdf (112.7 KB, 57 views)
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Old 30-03-2015, 06:46   #11
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Re: Volvo Penta D1-30a Regulation System

Rod,
I suggest using the standard gasket for the timing case. You can use it dry, or you can put a thin coat of a non hardening gasket maker on it, particularly if the sealing surface of the cover is a little dinged up.

Under the injection pump you need to maintain the same gasket/shim thickness as the original gasket so that the injection timing doesn't change. Measure the thickness of the old part and order a new one of the same thickness. My recollection is that they are gaskets of varying thickness. Push comes to shove, reuse the old one with a thin layer of soft sealant.

DougR
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Old 30-03-2015, 07:15   #12
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Re: Volvo Penta D1-30a Regulation System

OK, We'll take a caliper measurement of the old gasket and use that as a guide to selecting the new shim we install. You have been a huge help on this and we have a much better understanding of what needs to be done and how to do it.

All the parts have been ordered and hopefully they will all arrive in a few days.

Thank you for all your responses. I will post a reply and let you know how it all works out.
Cheers
Rod
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Old 30-03-2015, 12:17   #13
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Re: Volvo Penta D1-30a Regulation System

HI Doug, Me again.... Could you please look at the attached photos in the Jury rigged regulation system pictures.pdf , I hope it clears up the confusion we have and may help us get this engine back running while waiting for parts which could take 10 days or more.

The pictures are from when we removed the regulation system. Based on a very careful reading of your step by step instructions. I think we have finally identified why this jury rigged system has been giving us so much grief and caused the confusion you probably picked up on in our questions.

The way it was currently rigged, the throttle spring, Part 19 is interfering with the control arm reliably allowing the fuel regulation system to remain open when the engine is off and therefore starves the engine of fuel when trying to start it. Hence a difficult to start engine that can be very mushy on the throttle controls.

Should our suspicions about the installation shown in the pictures be correct, we have two questions.

1. Are we correct that the hole in the casing is where the sponge rubber and Throttle spring hook are supposed to go when we install the new parts? It seem clear from your instructions that the hole you referred to is the one marked C.

2. IF and its a desperate IF, we were to re-install the jury rigged system temporarily, with Spring A, ( the throttle tension spring), mounted as shown by bracket D in casing hole C, is it possible the engine will temporarily work properly, while we wait on the real parts to finally rebuild this system correctly?

I will look forward to hearing from you.
Thanks
Rod
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Jury rigged regulation system pictures.pdf (295.9 KB, 60 views)
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Old 30-03-2015, 12:52   #14
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Re: Volvo Penta D1-30a Regulation System

Fixed two typos on Jury Rigged Regulations system. PDF for

"sponge would be captive in the hole and could not get into the engine."

Cheers
Rod
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Jury rigged regulation system pictures.pdf (296.0 KB, 44 views)
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Old 30-03-2015, 13:12   #15
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Re: Volvo Penta D1-30a Regulation System

Hi Rod,
You have it! Spring A should have been hooked in hole C and held there with the foam.

Spring E is correct where you have it.

Photo 3 shows the stop lever turned below the "tab" on the control arm, and it needs to be located above the tab, so that when you activate the stop lever it forces the "tab" to rest against the aluminum "heel" which protrudes up from the timing case. You can see all of this in the center photo on page 65 in the shop manual.

As an aside....place the throttle lever around 1/3 or 1/2 throttle when you are starting the engine.....

Doug
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