Volvo Penta 2003T Injector Pumps

[Rustic Charm]

I've been reading the VP workshop manual which indicates the three injector pumps have to be put back into the same ports they came out of with 'soft and hard shims'.

If I remove the pumps, paying careful attention to how they come out, is it possible for me to have them serviced and then put them back in, the same way they came out?

I'm hoping that if I can get my engine going I can at least use the engine to get me back and forward to my mooring and jetty.

[sartorst]

Should be no problem keep in mind the the shims are what time the pump less shims advance timing more retard (soft)selective shims are a gasket to stop oil leaks
You may as well take them apart and try to clean them dont use anything harder than a toothpick to prob with may just be a piece of trash under a seat but if lapping is needed here is a link to lapping injector seats which would be the same for flat sealing surfaces vincewaldon.com - HOW-TO: Rebuild Diesel IDI Injectors
The only thing I would disagree with is 600 grit ouch! major adjustment would be needed afterwards

[Dsanduril]

What Sartorst said, with a little additional info:

There are two versions of these engines; those that use soft + hard shims and later ones that use an o-ring in place of the soft [edit - fingers faster than brain] shims. The latter is much easier, as you can just stack hard shims to get the right level and away you go.

With the soft + hard you make a sandwich soft-hard-soft to seal against the block and the pump, with the hard shim in the middle. And the soft shims (which you will likely have to replace) come in 0.2mm and 0.3mm thickness, telling which you have can be difficult.

The pumps and the block 'should' be marked with required total shim thickness, but my experience with finding the markings after years of service is less than perfect. If you do find the marks, or you measure when you take out the pumps, write the information down in the front of your manual. Right now you're planning to get rid of this engine, but....

[Rustic Charm]

Originally Posted by Dsanduril

What Sartorst said, with a little additional info:

There are two versions of these engines; those that use soft + hard shims and later ones that use an o-ring in place of the soft [edit - fingers faster than brain] shims. The latter is much easier, as you can just stack hard shims to get the right level and away you go.

With the soft + hard you make a sandwich soft-hard-soft to seal against the block and the pump, with the hard shim in the middle. And the soft shims (which you will likely have to replace) come in 0.2mm and 0.3mm thickness, telling which you have can be difficult.

The pumps and the block 'should' be marked with required total shim thickness, but my experience with finding the markings after years of service is less than perfect. If you do find the marks, or you measure when you take out the pumps, write the information down in the front of your manual. Right now you're planning to get rid of this engine, but....

Thanks, I did see that in the manual about the 'o' ring possibility.

[Rustic Charm]

Originally Posted by sartorst

Should be no problem keep in mind the the shims are what time the pump less shims advance timing more retard (soft)selective shims are a gasket to stop oil leaks
You may as well take them apart and try to clean them dont use anything harder than a toothpick to prob with may just be a piece of trash under a seat but if lapping is needed here is a link to lapping injector seats which would be the same for flat sealing surfaces vincewaldon.com - HOW-TO: Rebuild Diesel IDI Injectors
The only thing I would disagree with is 600 grit ouch! major adjustment would be needed afterwards

Brilliant.

All I want to do is to get the engine going so I can get it to the jetty and back to the mooring. Or, if I can get it going significantly I'll leave the engine replacement until I can get my boat the 50 miles up the river closer to where I live. The least I have to pay to do this then the better.

In fact, if I can get it going, then my priority will be cleaning the keel tank (on another thread) and ensuring I have clean fuel.

Thanks guys.

[Dsanduril]

It is a big deal getting the pumps back in the same position (and with the same shim thickness). I'm a Yank, so red, white, and blue are always in that order. My pumps are still painted those colors, starting from the bow. Clashes with the VP green, but worth it

Whatever mnemonic works for you, just make sure you mark well before you remove, so you can be sure you can get them back in the same place.

[Rustic Charm]

Originally Posted by Dsanduril

It is a big deal getting the pumps back in the same position (and with the same shim thickness). I'm a Yank, so red, white, and blue are always in that order. My pumps are still painted those colors, starting from the bow. Clashes with the VP green, but worth it

Whatever mnemonic works for you, just make sure you mark well before you remove, so you can be sure you can get them back in the same place.

I'm a little mystified by it. I've gone down to the boat this morning and removed them. Easy enough. I've ensured each one is named so it will go back into the same hole. But, I cannot see how they go back with any, ANY adjustment. There are two locating pins which each pump fits into neatly. And then nuts go on the pins to tighten it down. Doesn't feel like any movement possible. Between the pump and the block there is a simple paper gasket.

At home I've taken them apart and I have the 'o' ring type with a single little copper ring, which I assume is the 'shim'. But, I don't have the model with the larger 'o' ring between the pump and the block. .

The only thing that looked a worry to me is that in the top of each pump there is a little plunger which sits on a spring. The tops of two of the pump little plungers look scoured. I suspect that's the problem

[Rustic Charm]

Layer out

[Dsanduril]

The only adjustment is the thickness of the gaskets, are you sure there isn't a set crushed hard onto the pump itself? Right where the paper gasket goes on the block? If not, then sounds like they needed little shimming at the plant. Do the pumps have any numbers down on the base? Something like 1-5? That's one half of the shim thickness, the other "half" is on the block. 0.2mm is the thinnest shim. If you have 1 on the block and 1 on the pump then 0.2 is all the needed shimming, and that can be done with a single "soft shim" = gasket. If you have a 1 and a 2 then you need 0.3mm, also just a "soft shim".

What I don't recall is whether or not the pumps are Bosch or not? I do know a bunch of the VP pumps are, so you may be able to find someone with parts if you think the plungers are worn too much.

[Edit] and after posting I see your pictures, clearly Bosch pumps[/edit]

[Rustic Charm]

This is the only thing I could find that I suspect is wrong. These little guys seem to be quite rough, perhaps they need lapping?

I couldn't find anything that would have stopped fuel going through them.

Perhaps the problem was not in the pumps but in the crank case where the rollers are?

[Rustic Charm]

Originally Posted by Dsanduril

The only adjustment is the thickness of the gaskets, are you sure there isn't a set crushed hard onto the pump itself? Right where the paper gasket goes on the block? If not, then sounds like they needed little shimming at the plant. Do the pumps have any numbers down on the base? Something like 1-5? That's one half of the shim thickness, the other "half" is on the block. 0.2mm is the thinnest shim. If you have 1 on the block and 1 on the pump then 0.2 is all the needed shimming, and that can be done with a single "soft shim" = gasket. If you have a 1 and a 2 then you need 0.3mm, also just a "soft shim".

What I don't recall is whether or not the pumps are Bosch or not? I do know a bunch of the VP pumps are, so you may be able to find someone with parts if you think the plungers are worn too much.

[Edit] and after posting I see your pictures, clearly Bosch pumps[/edit]

Yes, definately Bosch.

I can only find the paper gasket on the block/ housing of the injection pump.

Next weekend I'll go down to the boat with some paint stripper and strip the paint around the holes and see if I can find any markings. The manual indicates 0.02mm

[Dsanduril]

IIRC this started in another thread as suspected bad/dirty fuel from a dirty tank? Can't imagine that affecting anything on the cams/crank/flywheel.

As long as the wear isn't enough to prevent the pump from developing pressure then the next step would be the injectors?

But, are you sure the pumps are getting fuel? Can't remember all the symptoms that got you here.

[Rustic Charm]

Originally Posted by Dsanduril

IIRC this started in another thread as suspected bad/dirty fuel from a dirty tank? Can't imagine that affecting anything on the cams/crank/flywheel.

As long as the wear isn't enough to prevent the pump from developing pressure then the next step would be the injectors?

But, are you sure the pumps are getting fuel? Can't remember all the symptoms that got you here.

Yes, it definately started with 'very' fouled fuel.

The mechanic who came and looked at it, determined there was no fuel to the injectors. There was fuel leaving the primary fuel filter to the first injector pump. But there was no fuel from the pumps to the injectors. Hense he concluded somethings wrong with the fuel injection pumps. What is odd is that there are three fuel injector pumps and all three stopped working at the same time?

[El Pinguino]

A little something has been lost in the translation I fear....

Those are simply the injectors.... trace the 4 (?) fuel lines back and they will all come from the high pressure 'injector pump' which is in turn fed by the low pressure lift pump.

I suspect the injector pump is where your trouble lies.

No harm in having the injectors serviced though... but I would send them off to a specialist...

All care no responsibility on my part when I talk about engines.....

[Rustic Charm]

Originally Posted by El Pinguino

A little something has been lost in the translation I fear....

Those are simply the injectors.... trace the 4 (?) fuel lines back and they will all come from the high pressure 'injector pump' which is in turn fed by the low pressure lift pump.

I suspect the injector pump is where your trouble lies.

No harm in having the injectors serviced though... but I would send them off to a specialist...

All care no responsibility on my part when I talk about engines.....

No, they are the pumps. There's three pumps and three injectors. The injectors are on the stern side of the engine and the pumps are on the port side.