Volvo Penta 2003 lifespan?

[jamhass]

Don't know which tranny you have, but on the 2003T Volvo V-drive the tranny cooler is a "simple" loop of copper tubing inside the rear cover. Not difficult to replace, but pricey as I recall.

[Jud]

Originally Posted by Scout 30

I plan to repower with a Beta 35 this winter. Will have 2 running take out 2003Ts & a lot of spare parts to sell.

I may be late, but have you still got any spare parts from your 2003Ts? Specifically, I’m looking for the freshwater circulation pump.

***Alternatively, does anyone know if there is any non-Volvo source of seals/bearings for the fresh water/recirc pump ? (I can’t seem to find out who made the pump - quite possibly it’s actually Volvo, in which case individual seals/bearings may well not be available, just the expensive Volvo rebuild kit, i.e., the whole pump “guts”. I’ve just finished a *complete* engine rebuild (dumb, maybe...but didn’t want to get involved in modifying engine bed, shaft, etc etc) and the recirc pump is compromised...ugh!)

Thanks for any help!
Jud

[coastalexplorer]

The bearings in the water pump are sealed SKF bearings. The there is some internal erosion of the aluminum casting on mine. So I could be interested in acquiring a better example. I Saw one offered for sale a few years ago purported to be 'new old stock' asking $850. but didn't get it. Volvo Canada claim that the 2003 series engine was a proprietary design. I have not knowledge as to the truth of someones claim that it was similar to Peugeot

[coastalexplorer]

TOA Marine

Part #3812236 from Volvo Penta
price: $1,130.80 - each.


If I could get hold of a spare to copy. (I do not want to disable my engine)
I could make a foundry pattern and cast some new ones as they are listed as no longer available from the manufacturer

[Jud]

Originally Posted by coastalexplorer

TOA Marine

Part #3812236 from Volvo Penta
price: $1,130.80 - each.


If I could get hold of a spare to copy. (I do not want to disable my engine)
I could make a foundry pattern and cast some new ones as they are listed as no longer available from the manufacturer

Thanks a lot for your reply, and the info in your post above re: SKF bearings (I assume you did indeed mean bearings and not seals, which is what I asked about and is what I need. I ask b/c I’m checking into availability of a reasonable facsimile replacement seal from Motion Canada (ex-BC Bearing), so I’ll pass them the info re: SKF bearing, and that the pump is perhaps Peugeot, in case it’s useful to them.)

Interesting what you say about casting a new pump body. In fact, a talented machinist friend was considering helping by machining an entirely new half of body (the part with pipe connections, w/o rotor and seals) - out of a chunk of alum lopped off a 4-5” rod. (Someone did a terrible repair of the pump in the past and re-drilled bolt holes in pump body, doing a terrible job, with result that pump leaks and bolts are questionable - and a bolt is corroded and broken off inside pump body). Downside of going this machining route might be the plumbing - we’d machine threads for hose barbs in the piece for the three pipes, which would then have to be transitioned from hose to pipe, and all fit together well.)

Are you on west coast of Canada? If so, I may seriously consider the idea of casting a new pump body! Mine, too, has internal corrosion. Am not quite ready to suck it up and buy a new pump...maybe the entire inside assembly (“Volvo rebuild kit”) if I can’t find new seals.

[Scout 30]

Originally Posted by Jud

I may be late, but have you still got any spare parts from your 2003Ts? Specifically, I’m looking for the freshwater circulation pump.

***Alternatively, does anyone know if there is any non-Volvo source of seals/bearings for the fresh water/recirc pump ? (I can’t seem to find out who made the pump - quite possibly it’s actually Volvo, in which case individual seals/bearings may well not be available, just the expensive Volvo rebuild kit, i.e., the whole pump “guts”. I’ve just finished a *complete* engine rebuild (dumb, maybe...but didn’t want to get involved in modifying engine bed, shaft, etc etc) and the recirc pump is compromised...ugh!)

Thanks for any help!
Jud

Been sidetracked by other projects so I haven't actually done the repower yet. Will let you know as soon as I do. I've got to get on that!

[Pete7]

Originally Posted by Scout 30

I've done it with muriatic acid & it works.

Old thread, but did an acid flush last winter. Ran a 6mm threaded 1m long rod through the flute pipe in the head to loosen any concretion on our RWC version. Took the thermostat out and poured the mix in then left it for an hour. Lots of bubbling and the colour changed to a mix of dark green and black fluid. Next assembled the engine and ran it in gear for half an hour. Lots of white milk like fluid came out of the exhaust.

Final task was to fit a new anode. Seems worth while every few years to keep the cooling system clear.

Pete

[Cloroxbottle]

Originally Posted by JBas

Hi there,
My friend is looking to buy a yacht with the above engine.
It's 30 years old, and done more than 7000 hours.

If he can buy the boat at a price that accounts for a repower, go for it. If not, don't. That engine with those hours is nearing the end of life and many spares are out of production.