Volvo Penta 2003 lifespan?

[coastalexplorer]

Olaf Hart...About the exhaust mixing elbow...Good point... I forgot about that one. Thank you for reminding. When I first received the engine that part was $456 but I did not want to invest until all the other work was done and tested using the old one. By the time I had to buy the new one it was over $560. So as I pointed out in another thread I had my new one ceramic coated in the exhaust passage and the water jacket with two different types of ceramic. In the hope to control corrosion.

If there are enough 2000 series owners out there needing these I am sure I could make a pattern and core boxes to cast them cheaper. I have also wondered is there is a better material to use such as aluminum Bronze, (I think air craft use this) other thoughts: silicone Bronze? 316 L stainless? or stay with iron..

I think that the number of hours a Diesel engine can run with out failure is directly related to regular oil changes?

Anyone have thoughts on this?

[dcruz99801]

My last cast iron elbow lasted 3 years, then I found SS castings online for $200-230. Unfortunately my engine just died. (Anyone want a near-new SS elbow?)

[coastalexplorer]

dcruz99801...so sorry to hear about your engine's demise...very interested to know What exactly happened to it to cause it to stop working?

[dcruz99801]

It was old and tired when I got it, just a quick and dirty to get us out of the clutches of the "Shelter Island Mafia" and down to La Paz where our <other> boat was. After a year in a dry yard and another dockside, it suffered a stuck valve -- probably salt moisture rust, the exhaust elbow was also bad -- and bent a pushrod. We had a mechanic get it loose replace the pushrod, but he advised me not to put money into it, just run it until it died and get rid of it.

A year later, moving the boat to San Carlos, it started to 'huff' and throb like a passing train, and my oil pressure went 20# higher; my best guess is some blowby from rings or a valve bushing. I sailed the last hundred miles in light air, saved its last gasp for docking.

I intend to take the head off as I disassemble/remove it, just to see what's what.

[CascadeThumper]

Might surf over to boatdiesel.com and ask the experts - might have to become a member to post $5 or so.

[MARC D]

Link to the Electronic Parts Catalog (EPC) of Volvo Penta:
volvopentashop.com

Just enter engine serial number (or look for your model)

It is nice to look at the drawings and having the part numbers make the shopping easier.

[dcruz99801]

Not sure if you guys are giving part/repair suggestions to OP or me, but I am definitely NOT going to repair the Volvo. I left San Diego with a "sweet little Volvo 2003T" (38hp) that a <recommended> mechanic sold me as faster and cheaper than fixing the original 40hp Pisces. I left San Diego and only made it to Ensenada.

In Ensenada I swapped in the tired, old 2003( normally aspirated) which is only 28hp. I discovered then how expensive parts were. It was over-propped, but I seldom used it except for anchorage/marina maneuvering because I knew it was living on borrowed time.

I now have a rebuilt Perkins 4-108 (48 hp) waiting for me in Mexicali. There may/will be some changes needed to fit it in -- engine mounts, shaft coupling, cables, etc -- but I will be much happier with a reliable engine that has a solid history and world-wide support, not to mention cheaper parts.

[coastalexplorer]

dcruz99801 the purpose for my question was just to know as much as possible about any inherent problems beyond the known damper spline failure.

Since this engine was designed as a marine engine from the get go, and is not an industrial diesel conversion I am hoping there is reason to have some faith in it. My son's are auto mechanics working for BMW and they are very strict on oil changes. So perhaps the real answer regards engine life has every thing to do with how well the engine was maintained?

Obviously I know where Shelter island is..never dealt with them so no comment. Are you ever coming back this way? IF you are scrapping yours I could be interested to know the condition of the 'fresh water' coolant pump.
Mine was connected to a hot water system that held many gallons of coolant that probably was expensive to change. Old coolant turns to acid in time so there is some internal corrosion of the aluminum housing on mine, thus while mine still works: I could be interested in finding a better one.

[Souzag818]

Originally Posted by Vasco

Try and find parts! And this engine has had more than it's share of problems.

I've got one and have never had a problem getting any parts, though they are expensive. Keep up on oil/filter changes, impeller the usual stuff. Been problem free for me. Don't think I'd rebuild at 7000 hrs because of the cost of parts

[Paul L]

Originally Posted by coastalexplorer

.......

Obviously I know where Shelter island is..never dealt with them so no comment. Are you ever coming back this way? IF you are scrapping yours I could be interested to know the condition of the 'fresh water' coolant pump.
Mine was connected to a hot water system that held many gallons of coolant that probably was expensive to change. Old coolant turns to acid in time so there is some internal corrosion of the aluminum housing on mine, thus while mine still works: I could be interested in finding a better one.

The freshwater cooling system is the weak part of the 200x motors. The raw water cooled ones are simpler and seem to last longer.

[double u]

anecdotal evidence in the extreme but still:
had a 2003T on a Bav on the base, where one of the bolts on the big-end-bearing on one of the con-rods came undone - recovered the nut from the carnkcase, on the second bolt the nut was nearly off & the bolt severely bent. For some unknown (or unremembered) reason the engine stopped before it blew up, but total destruction could only have been 1sec away. engine had min2000h on it before this happened, hadn't been opened before.
this one & a second one both had to have their turbos replaced after a winter despite having been started once a week & let warm up...
another 2003, naturally aspirated was better
parts wer very very expensive...

[CaptMarc]

Originally Posted by dcruz99801

My last cast iron elbow lasted 3 years, then I found SS castings online for $200-230. Unfortunately my engine just died. (Anyone want a near-new SS elbow?)

Here is a $200 Exhaust mixing elbow

https://hdimarine.net/product/vp-sta...exhaust-elbow/

[Vasco]

Originally Posted by Souzag818

I've got one and have never had a problem getting any parts, though they are expensive. Keep up on oil/filter changes, impeller the usual stuff. Been problem free for me. Don't think I'd rebuild at 7000 hrs because of the cost of parts

You're very fortunate. My experience was different with a 2003 (1988) which was brand new in a brand new boat. Here's some other views on these engines:
Volvo-Penta 2000: Worst ship diesel engine ?

[olaf hart]

Originally Posted by Vasco

You're very fortunate. My experience was different with a 2003 (1988) which was brand new in a brand new boat. Here's some other views on these engines:
Volvo-Penta 2000: Worst ship diesel engine ?

My boat has a 2003, it goes but it is a great embarrassment.

However my previous boat had a Yanmar 3ym30, needed a saltwater pump rebuild at 250 hours.

I priced a new freshwater pump for it at the time and was quoted $Aus 800.

I am not an apologist for Volvo, I pay high prices for my spares now, but Yanmar seem to have caught up with the spares rip-off as well.

[Scout 30]

I plan to repower with a Beta 35 this winter. Will have 2 running take out 2003Ts & a lot of spare parts to sell.