Volvo Penta 2002 Oil Leak From Seawater Pump?

[jigray3]

Despite its reputation, my VP 2002 has been a very reliable engine. The only blemish has been the seawater pump. In the 20 years I have owned the boat because of water leaks, I have had it rebuilt, replaced, and rebuilt again. About a year ago, when it started leaking seawater yet again, I tried simply replacing the seals responsible, and that worked just fine. However, on a recent 12 day trip, I started getting an oil leak that seems to be dripping from the bottom of the impeller housing on the pump. I cleaned the area under pump and placed a paper towel under it, and returned to a small patch of oil on the towel as my confirmation. I'm guessing it is certainly possible the source of the oil leak is the seawater pump, correct? I checked a couple of other sources, and thankfully, the crankshaft seal and the hand crank seal appear dry. I changed the oil recently, and discovered topping the oil off seems to result in even more leakage even without the motor having been run. Anything else in the area I should consider as the source? Not an easy area to inspect given the way it is installed.

If it is the seawater pump, which parts would you recommend replacing to stop the oil leak? If I'm pulling it, replace 'em all? Here's the exploded view of the pump:

http://www.volvopentastore.com/Sea-W...view_id.766189

Thanks.

[Bruce626]

Sorry, your link did not work. It is nice to know that one can still get parts even if neither Volvo-Penta in Manila or the USA have replied to my queries about this pump and pump kit. Mine does not seem to leak oil, it just does not suck water. We did dismantle the pump and replace the bearings and seals with standard parts from an auto shop and it seems not to leak - but doesn't suck water either. How much does this pump cost? I have heard that these parts are very expensive. Sorry I can't be of more help.

[NCboatrx]

There is an O ring that is the seal between the back of the raw water pump and front of the engine. If this has been pinched, it will leak.

The best place to get Volvo parts and advice is from Dick Vosbury in Annapolis. His email is Vosburym@aol.com

Stanley

[barnakiel]

Yes. In our engine (MD7A, Johnson pump) it is a two seal system with a weep hole. Clean the area and tape some paper tissues below the pump then run the engine some.

b.

[Paul L]

The pump can leak oil from two places. One is where the pump mounts to the engine. If it is here, then check the bolts are tight and if that doesn't work add some gasket sealant to the pump body and remount. The other place is from the right hand #14 seal in your linked picture. Make sure that this was mounted in the correct direction - which if I remember correctly is the cupped side pointing to the engine.

[jigray3]

Thanks for the thoughtful replies, folks. Helpful as always.

[jigray3]

Originally Posted by Bruce626

Sorry, your link did not work. It is nice to know that one can still get parts even if neither Volvo-Penta in Manila or the USA have replied to my queries about this pump and pump kit. Mine does not seem to leak oil, it just does not suck water. We did dismantle the pump and replace the bearings and seals with standard parts from an auto shop and it seems not to leak - but doesn't suck water either. How much does this pump cost? I have heard that these parts are very expensive. Sorry I can't be of more help.

The link seems to work for others, don't know why not for you, try again. I would first confirm the pump shaft is turning. If not, you have a problem with the interface between the shaft and the engine, and you'll need to inspect that area. If the shaft is spinning, but the impeller is not, is the screw that runs through the center of the impeller seated in the cut groove in the pump shaft? If the impeller and shaft are turning is the cam insert inside the pump body that flexes the impeller blades and creates the suction there? Is the impeller the correct size?

Good luck.

[jigray3]

Originally Posted by Paul L

The pump can leak oil from two places. One is where the pump mounts to the engine. If it is here, then check the bolts are tight and if that doesn't work add some gasket sealant to the pump body and remount. The other place is from the right hand #14 seal in your linked picture. Make sure that this was mounted in the correct direction - which if I remember correctly is the cupped side pointing to the engine.

No gasket between the pump body and the engine? If not, I assume it should get gasket sealant, correct?

Thanks, Paul.

[Paul L]

I think it was designed to be put in dry, but I have used gasket sealant on it.

[jigray3]

Okay, Paul. I'll try tightening the bolts first and see what happens. BTW, if I pull it, can I expect oil to pour out?

[Paul L]

No, the oil does not go that high. You'll see some oily gears.

[Bruce626]

"The link seems to work for others, don't know why not for you, try again." ==> OK, but still no joy: Oops! Google Chrome could not find Volvo Penta Marine Engine Parts and Accessories Online Store - Volvo Penta - Your search - volvo penta store Sea Water Pump 840557 cart 253345804 session 762438093 366 view - did not match any documents. Dick Vosbury, per NCboatrx, did reply with availability and pricing information.

"is the cam insert inside the pump body that flexes the impeller blades and creates the suction there?" ==> Yes, but after checking the screw that holds it in place will not tighten now.

"Is the impeller the correct size?" ==> As far as I can tell it is (since the blades are flexed by the insert) although because of side wear in the cover and base the fit may not be as tight as new. We have tried to polish the cover back to flat but nothing can be done about the back as the cam insert makes putting a shim in a non-trivial task.

I know it spins since it sucked a wrasse (small fish) that was hiding in the thru-hull intake had to be removed from the pump (external scoop filter now in place).

[Paul L]

Originally Posted by Bruce626

.....

"is the cam insert inside the pump body that flexes the impeller blades and creates the suction there?" ==> Yes, but after checking the screw that holds it in place will not tighten now.
.......

The screw that holds the cam always corrodes. I'm guessing it is bronze in a brass body. Are you sure the cam is staying put? I've used a stainless screw in its place in a pinch and lots of tef-gel. Make sure any replacement does not stick out thru the cam and damage the impeller.
If the pump can suck fish, it is fine. Are you sure the inlet line is now clear? Are you sure that you don't have blockage in the tubes in the raw water side of the heat exchanger?
You can buy a new pump from Depco and other online pump dealers. The raw water pump is pretty reasonable price - the freshwater is not.

[Bruce626]

Paul L wrote: "Are you sure the cam is staying put?" ==> I don't see how it could be moving with the screw in it - also if the cam insert was moving I would expect some serous noise.

"If the pump can suck fish, it is fine." ==> The fish was not just passing by, it inserted itself, tail first, into the intake thru-hull so it didn't take much to pull it down the intake pipe. I changed the plastic thru-hull and valve for bronze of the same size and added a scoop filter to keep the fish out. For overkill I added a salt water strainer to the system on the inside. The original install had the seawater go through the gearbox before getting to the intake pump - this did not work until the gearbox was removed from the system. I now have a 'T' with a shutoff valve so water can be directed through the gearbox or not - worked for a while, but not since the strainer was added. Took the strainer out of the system but still no flow.

"Are you sure the inlet line is now clear?" ==> Yes, one can blow air back through the system and out the inlet.

"Are you sure that you don't have blockage in the tubes in the raw water side of the heat exchanger?" ==> There is no heat exchanger - seawater comes in from the thru-hull either because of a small amount of water pressure from being a foot under water or due to the weak suction generated by the impeller. It goes through the hoses and piping to the intake side of the impeller. When working, the water is then pushed through the engine and out the pipe around the exhaust pipe into some kind of muffler box and then out the exhaust. I have tried it with the gearbox both in and out of the system and with the strainer both in and out of the system - no water comes out the exhaust port anymore.

A new pump is about $500 - and I can get a cheaper external pump that is belt driven off of some shaft or other; but then the engine has to be modified to add the pulley, pump, and some way to tighten the belt - the external pump for probably around $250 and unknown modification costs (although my builder tells me that this is simple for me to do - he has not actually volunteered to do it though). Once I put the money into the pump, I am not at all sure that the injector(s) will not then fail - one injector has only two threads remaining where the bolt that goes through the banjo fuel fitting is tightened. I was thinking of ordering a pair of injectors if I order the pump - but I am unclear as to the difference between "injector complete is $522.52 but injector nozzle is $130.97". I have had the injectors out on numerous occasions and they seem to be steel rods with a bit of machining for a spray hole and a threaded fuel intake - what makes them 'complete'? (the bracket that holds them down? - why would this cost $400?). I am beginning to think my builder is correct, despite having a Masters degree, I am too stupid to own a boat.

[Paul L]

Here it is for $266
Johnson 10-24707-01
Not sure I understand your original setup. But if it didn't have a strainer after the seacock and prior to the tranny and pump, then there may be clogs in the engine raw water circuit.