Volvo Penta 120 SE Saildrive Cone Replacement

[belizesailor]

Yes, the bellows hold up amazingly well and beyond the recommended service life. What I have found is that some of the associated hardware holds up less well. For example, the clamp ring on Volvo's, despite its outrageous cost, is just made of stamped steel (duh!) which of course rusts. I replaced one after about 10 years because of the corrossion (it got sea water on it). Repalced the bellows at the same time, but it was still in pretty good shape (kept it as a spare just in case).

[Magnum]

We replaced ours in 2012 when She was 13 years old, the rubber was still fine, but our insurers insisted that they be replaced, quoting the Volvo seven year life, but we charter our boat out so it is subject to annual marine engineer inspection and the insurers take their lead from him. Regards Doug

[Magnum]

Originally Posted by Magnum

Mark, many thanks for your response unfortunately I couldn't find anything attached to your post and have searched marine parts without success, plenty of diagrams but not for the 120SE. Regards Doug

I thought I would post Marks excellent response to my original cry for help, just to help others who may experience similar issues:

On 25 Oct 2013, at 22:55, Mark wrote:

Hi Doug,

Attached is the schematic showing the sliding sleeve (item #22). If this is your problem, it can be accessed from within the boat without removing the drive.

Disassembly of the upper gear unit is achieved by removing the shift dog, then taking the oil fill cap off and depressing a large retaining lock washer on the shaft using a home made "prong tool". You will need to make this tool by using a piece 1"X4"x 1/4" steel and welding three "fingers" coming out of it in the center that push down onto the top lock washer. On the ends of the steel piece put two bolts that screw down into two of the bolt holes of the cover. When you tighten down on these bolts, you put pressure on the lock washer and push it down.

Once the washer is pushed down about 1/2" two retaining clips are removed from a groove in the shaft. Then the whole case cover with bearing and drive gear can be lifted off the shaft exposing the clutch cone.

You may run into a problem where the retaining washer bottoms out on a bearing that sits below it before traveling the necessary 1/2" to remove the retaining clips. Volvo intends you to remove the transmission and put it in a press to remove this retaining washer. By doing so you are supporting the shaft from below.

If when pushing down on the washer the whole shaft goes down, not just the washer, then you will need to temporarily weld a 7/16" threaded stud to the top of the shaft and make a tool to pushed down on the washer while pulling up on the shaft. Afterwards, just cut the stud off and grind it flush (more or less).

This all sounds difficult, but it is easier than hauling the boat, removing the drive and disassembling it completely.

Good Luck,
Mark

[Magnum]

Originally Posted by colemj

Check the sliding sleeve for wear or burning. It is part #22 in the attached diagram. You can find all of these diagrams at marinepartsexpress.com Mark

Mark, you are a hero, not only did you diagnose the fault correctly from 1,000's miles away, you inspired us to attempt the repair with the engine in situ, we had a very successful afternoon on Cloud Nine and managed to block the gearbox and remove the engine mount and rear cover in order to be able to inspect the sliding sleeve, which as you can see from the photo below was somewhat defective!





You were also right in the requirement to manufacture a tool to hold the shaft whilst depressing the spring washers in order to remove the lock rings. We managed to practice on a second hand saildrive we bought on eBay for £67, we also utilised the sliding sleeve from this engine to replace ours as Volvo quoted nearly £600 for the replacement.

Thanks for your help againg and I hope this thread will help others.

Regards

Doug

[colemj]

Good news Doug! You really lucked out getting that eBay unit so cheap and with what looks like a new clutch in it. Yes, that old one looks burned. Make sure the shifter is set up to let the new one fully engage. That price is outrageous - in the US, it only costs £365 (I converted from USD), not that that is cheap either.

Mark

[KWISPEL]

Can you post a picture from the 'Pong Tool''

Thx for the nice info

[Magnum]

Dear KWISPEL, hopefully the photo’s I have uploaded will help. Kind Regards Doug

[KWISPEL]

THX FOR THE PICTURES!!!

[andydamis]

Originally Posted by Magnum

Dear KWISPEL, hopefully the photo’s I have uploaded will help. Kind Regards Doug

Doug,

Any chance you still have this tool? If so, would you be willing to rent it to me?

I pulled out the shift mechanism and all seems well there, so I'm guessing my sliding sleave is toast.

I have a 50' catamaran which limits where I can haul out and increases the price of a haul out significantly.

Thanks.

Andy

[Groundwood]

Originally Posted by Magnum

Dear KWISPEL, hopefully the photo’s I have uploaded will help. Kind Regards Doug

Thanks for very good set how to approach this problem. Obviously I have the same. The gear goes forward and reverse, no issues. Finding neutral is very difficult. When getting off the gear it very often takes over and engages a gear to opposite direction. I am trying to choose my action here. At this stage this is irritating problem and makes coming into pier a challenge. How would you comment on following alternatives: 1) just change "the dog". Easy to do DYI and around 200 euros. 2) change the cone and the dog. The Volvo insists on taking the boat up , removing the sail drive and doing the fix in their workshop table. Very expensive. 3) Do it as you suggest, boat on the water. Question: How do you attach the tool into axle to remove locking halves? Is there a thread where you attach the puller? Which thread? and finally, Is there any method other than workshop to find out what is actually wrong and what needs to be replaced?

[Norberto]

Hello Guys
Very useful blog !
I will use it.
When I changed 120SE 2.48, refilling oil through the main black cap, I found the 2 half ring circlips with closing washer out of the shaft.
I don't know how it happen as everything was going well with gear box, so I wondering just to replace it and go.
What do you think ?
Thanks.
Norberto

[Magnum]

Originally Posted by Norberto

Hello Guys

Very useful blog !

I will use it.

When I changed 120SE 2.48, refilling oil through the main black cap, I found the 2 half ring circlips with closing washer out of the shaft.

I don't know how it happen as everything was going well with gear box, so I wondering just to replace it and go.

What do you think ?

Thanks.

Norberto

Hi Norberto

It is good news that you recovered the lock rings and washer, you do not want those floating around your gearbox!

The only thing I would recommend is to replace the disc springs beneath the lock washer, the lack of tension in your existing spring(s) is the only thing that I can conceive that has allowed the lock rings to come out.

Because of the end float in the shaft it is normally very difficult to be able to depress against the disc springs far enough to get the lock rings out, without holding the shaft up at the same time, although much easier in the workshop, as you can hold the shaft (with the upper gearbox removed from the leg).

I wish you the best of luck.

Kind regards

Doug

[Magnum]

Originally Posted by Groundwood

Thanks for very good set how to approach this problem. Obviously I have the same. The gear goes forward and reverse, no issues. Finding neutral is very difficult. When getting off the gear it very often takes over and engages a gear to opposite direction. I am trying to choose my action here. At this stage this is irritating problem and makes coming into pier a challenge. How would you comment on following alternatives: 1) just change "the dog". Easy to do DYI and around 200 euros. 2) change the cone and the dog. The Volvo insists on taking the boat up , removing the sail drive and doing the fix in their workshop table. Very expensive. 3) Do it as you suggest, boat on the water. Question: How do you attach the tool into axle to remove locking halves? Is there a thread where you attach the puller? Which thread? and finally, Is there any method other than workshop to find out what is actually wrong and what needs to be replaced?

Hi Groundwood

I am really sorry but I missed your post, are you still wanting any comments?

Kind regards

Doug

[Norberto]

Hi Doug,

Thank you, very clear, will do .

Norberto.

[Norberto]

Hi Doug,
Due to covid, I was not able up to last week to do the repair. Now I did the remounting of the 2 half clips of the upper gear, using a similar tool.
I was having an issue with number of spring washer, I put them as it was but going at the maximum of pressure with the tool , not possible to reach the tumbler of the shaft where to insert the 2 clips.
So I discover by putting the reverse position , that the shaft was going up and enough margin to replace the 2 semi rings.
So job done BUT removing the tool , when I put neutral or forward this is ok , when I put reverse , the shaft is going up and the clips are no more blocked by the locker washer.

So is there a specific position ( neutral, reverse, forward, number of engine tour to do manually using the wheel of alternator ?

See attachment .

Thanks for your advise .
Norbert.