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Old 06-11-2013, 19:17   #16
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Yes, the bellows hold up amazingly well and beyond the recommended service life. What I have found is that some of the associated hardware holds up less well. For example, the clamp ring on Volvo's, despite its outrageous cost, is just made of stamped steel (duh!) which of course rusts. I replaced one after about 10 years because of the corrossion (it got sea water on it). Repalced the bellows at the same time, but it was still in pretty good shape (kept it as a spare just in case).
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Old 07-11-2013, 00:21   #17
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We replaced ours in 2012 when She was 13 years old, the rubber was still fine, but our insurers insisted that they be replaced, quoting the Volvo seven year life, but we charter our boat out so it is subject to annual marine engineer inspection and the insurers take their lead from him. Regards Doug
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Old 07-11-2013, 15:06   #18
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Mark, many thanks for your response unfortunately I couldn't find anything attached to your post and have searched marine parts without success, plenty of diagrams but not for the 120SE. Regards Doug
I thought I would post Marks excellent response to my original cry for help, just to help others who may experience similar issues:

On 25 Oct 2013, at 22:55, Mark wrote:

Hi Doug,

Attached is the schematic showing the sliding sleeve (item #22). If this is your problem, it can be accessed from within the boat without removing the drive.

Disassembly of the upper gear unit is achieved by removing the shift dog, then taking the oil fill cap off and depressing a large retaining lock washer on the shaft using a home made "prong tool". You will need to make this tool by using a piece 1"X4"x 1/4" steel and welding three "fingers" coming out of it in the center that push down onto the top lock washer. On the ends of the steel piece put two bolts that screw down into two of the bolt holes of the cover. When you tighten down on these bolts, you put pressure on the lock washer and push it down.

Once the washer is pushed down about 1/2" two retaining clips are removed from a groove in the shaft. Then the whole case cover with bearing and drive gear can be lifted off the shaft exposing the clutch cone.

You may run into a problem where the retaining washer bottoms out on a bearing that sits below it before traveling the necessary 1/2" to remove the retaining clips. Volvo intends you to remove the transmission and put it in a press to remove this retaining washer. By doing so you are supporting the shaft from below.

If when pushing down on the washer the whole shaft goes down, not just the washer, then you will need to temporarily weld a 7/16" threaded stud to the top of the shaft and make a tool to pushed down on the washer while pulling up on the shaft. Afterwards, just cut the stud off and grind it flush (more or less).

This all sounds difficult, but it is easier than hauling the boat, removing the drive and disassembling it completely.

Good Luck,
Mark
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Old 14-11-2013, 16:04   #19
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Check the sliding sleeve for wear or burning. It is part #22 in the attached diagram. You can find all of these diagrams at marinepartsexpress.com Mark
Mark, you are a hero, not only did you diagnose the fault correctly from 1,000's miles away, you inspired us to attempt the repair with the engine in situ, we had a very successful afternoon on Cloud Nine and managed to block the gearbox and remove the engine mount and rear cover in order to be able to inspect the sliding sleeve, which as you can see from the photo below was somewhat defective!



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You were also right in the requirement to manufacture a tool to hold the shaft whilst depressing the spring washers in order to remove the lock rings. We managed to practice on a second hand saildrive we bought on eBay for 67, we also utilised the sliding sleeve from this engine to replace ours as Volvo quoted nearly 600 for the replacement.

Thanks for your help againg and I hope this thread will help others.

Regards

Doug
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Old 14-11-2013, 16:41   #20
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Re: Volvo Penta 120 SE Saildrive Cone Replacement

Good news Doug! You really lucked out getting that eBay unit so cheap and with what looks like a new clutch in it. Yes, that old one looks burned. Make sure the shifter is set up to let the new one fully engage. That price is outrageous - in the US, it only costs 365 (I converted from USD), not that that is cheap either.

Mark
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