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| | #1 | |
| Registered User ![]() Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 335
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| | #2 |
| Registered User ![]() Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Skagit City, WA
Boat: Fellippi 32
Posts: 2,205
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Have you had the boat long.... is this a new symptom? I built a 31 footer years ago with a brand new volvo 13 hp engine that did the same thing. Never did figure it out. In the end I figured the engine was just not big enough for the boat... (read too many traditionalist "blue water" books I guess!)
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| | #3 |
| Registered User ![]() Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: N.E. Florida
Boat: Simpson, Catamaran, 46ft. IMAGINE
Posts: 3,155
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Just because the impeller is new. Does not mean it is NOT the problem. I recently had an over heating problem, and it was barnacles that passed through the pump, and lodged on the other side of it in the hose. Checking the flow of water out the exhaust at high rpm will help in where to look.....i2f
__________________ BORROWED! No single one of us is as smart as all of us! ![]() SAILING is not always a slick magazine cover! |
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| | #4 | |
| Registered User ![]() Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 335
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| | #5 |
| Registered User ![]() Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: San Antonio, TX/Corpus Christi, TX
Boat: 1990 Macintosh 47, "Merlin"
Posts: 741
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Thermostat Coolant to water ratio (1:1 - more coolant than that IS BAD - water conducts heat MUCH better than ethylene glycol), PULL your impeller again, there have been reports of bad, brand new impellers - the hub breaks away from the fins Exhaust elbow Packing gland too tight (prop spins by hand?) As noted, check your water flow, all the way to the exhaust
__________________ Bill Streep San Antonio/Corpus Christi, TX |
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| | #6 |
| Registered User ![]() Join Date: May 2008 Location: Cumming, Georgia United States
Posts: 406
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Check the valves and rockers also it could be that the rockerspring on intake or exhaust valves may be defective if it is a newer engine,becuase if the valve isn't opening enough it will work at lower RPM's but it will run slightly hot nor will it be efficient, if the valve isn't opening enough or is getting stuck then the air won't be mixed right and will cause all the exhaust heat and fumes to stay in the cylinder and not allowing the air and fuel to mix right and there to be alot of extra fuel that will burn on the power stroke when the air intake valve opens instead of the compression stroke when the fresh fuel is injected thus causing the engine to overheat and robbing you of your fuel economy and power. By the way the book by Calder is a very informative publication and I think a copy of the book should be given to everyone who buys a boat from a dealer.
__________________ Cdt. SGT. ![]() life is a mystery and if you try to solve it youll end up more confused than you were before!! |
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| | #7 |
| Registered User ![]() |
I just posted a similar question with an overheating problem. Went through the system end to end. the culprit? Bad thermostat. It is fine until the engine gets up to load temp and won't open all the way. BP |
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| | #8 |
| Registered User ![]() Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Salem MA
Boat: Cal 39 - D & D
Posts: 485
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Does it matter whether the engine panels are on? Make sure that the hoses are not getting "pushed" in when the covers are on due to being too long etc. This would allow water though the sytem and out the the back, but not enough once the engine rpms increase. Would still appear to have flow during this. Had a friend who spend a lot on money troubleshooting a similar problem when all that was needed was to shorten the hoses.
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| | #9 |
| Registered User ![]() Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Stuart, FL & Bahamas Cruising
Boat: Lagoon 37
Posts: 433
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I had a over heat problem, checked everything, some twice! It ended up being the impeller, which looked perfect but had actually spun on the brass center section. Did not find it until I started the engine with the impeller cover off. And it did not spin as fast as it should have
__________________ Denny and Diane ![]() Formerly "NCDD" S/V JusDreaming Lagoon 37 www.svjusdreaming.com http://www.sailblogs.com/member/svjusdreaming/ "The only way to get a good crew is to marry one." -Eric Hiscock |
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| | #10 |
| Registered User ![]() Join Date: May 2009 Location: Victoria
Boat: S2 35c
Posts: 34
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I had a similar problem this year , after taking everything apart and finding nothing wrong it turned out to be a slipping worn belt. Lost a lot of knuckle meat for nothing.
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| | #11 |
| Registered User ![]() Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: STX
Boat: Privilege 39 - Island Hops
Posts: 19
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At 3000 hours I'd say a your mixing elbow is clogged if it has not been replaced. This reduces you raw water flow. At increased RPM the constriction prevents the volume of raw water from flowing over the heat exchanger hence lowering colling capacity. Remove your mixing elbow (or straight pipe) and check for carbon buildup. Temp fix is to chisel it out as much as you can, but best to replace it. The old 83 3GMF in my previous boat (H34) suffered from similar symptoms as you described. |
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| | #12 |
| Registered User ![]() |
you can also check the elbow by removing the exhaust hose from it and looking in with a flashlight to see if it is clear or clogged up. hose may be stuck so you will need to work at it.
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| | #13 |
| Registered User ![]() Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: North of Baltimore
Boat: Ericson 27 & 18' Herrmann Catboat
Posts: 2,006
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What type of engine is it?
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| | #14 |
| Registered User ![]() Join Date: Mar 2009
Posts: 335
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| | #15 |
| Registered User ![]() Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: North of Baltimore
Boat: Ericson 27 & 18' Herrmann Catboat
Posts: 2,006
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If you have ever had to replace an impeller in the past...did you get all the pieces out? I have seen pieces which lodge in the hoses or the first fitting after the pump. How old is the cooling elbow? Yanmars for example are good for about three years or less in salt water. Impeller hubs can fail....I have seen that in a lot of different engines. Are you trying to push the vessel past theoretical hull speed? There are as many different causes as there are opinions on this one. |
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