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Old 31-05-2006, 09:45   #16
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Pat-
800 hours for a boat engine? 100k miles, which could be over 1600 hours, for the truck?
So, did you slip a digit in the calcs like I often do, or are you saying that GM has put their engines on a dyno for a thousand hours? Or, that GM is screwing up engines by putting in Mobil1 about a thousand hours too soon?
Sounds a bit *too* far beyond belt+suspenders to me, but then again, I've only used Mobil1 for 21 years.
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Old 31-05-2006, 14:10   #17
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Thanks all for the ideals. I have pulled the motor and here is what I found. The rings need to be replaced. Cyclinder 1 rod bearings where trashed found in the bottom of oil pan. The rod also was rounded off and has a groove from side to side. The crank to me looked good. And taht is all I found. I am going to re ring hone the cyclinders replace all the #1 rod and aqll the bearings put in new vaulve guide seels and gaskets and put it back togather. I am suprised since I did not run it very much that cyclinder one rod and bearing would be so trashed.

I am going to replace the main seal on my Hurth Tranny while I have it apart.

Any suggestions will be appriciated.

Thanks,

Matt Hager
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Old 31-05-2006, 14:28   #18
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Matt-
Something to ask the pros and consider: Since you *know* that one rod was stressed so badly it failed, why take a chance that the others are still unstressed? And since you can't really stress test them economically...Personally I'd rather replace them all and *know* that the parts were all 100% before I put it together again. Rather than having something fail a year or two down the line, because it had been weakened this time and not replaced.
"In for a penny in for a pound" and all that good stuff.<G>
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Old 31-05-2006, 18:30   #19
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Matt, thanks for the update. I'm glead you caught it before something went through the pan or the block cracked. Good luck and keep us posted.

Cheers and good luck,

Deep
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Old 31-05-2006, 19:36   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by hellosailor
Pat-
800 hours for a boat engine? 100k miles, which could be over 1600 hours, for the truck?
So, did you slip a digit in the calcs like I often do, or are you saying that GM has put their engines on a dyno for a thousand hours? Or, that GM is screwing up engines by putting in Mobil1 about a thousand hours too soon?
Sounds a bit *too* far beyond belt+suspenders to me, but then again, I've only used Mobil1 for 21 years.
I don't know what amount of hours GM and Porsche use for a bench mark. The numbers I stated were personal oppinion. I'm extra cautious with my $40K truck. I'll go synthetic when my mileage stops increasing. My guess will be somewhere between 80-100k miles.
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Old 01-06-2006, 02:09   #21
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Pat's right that a diesel takes twice as long to break in. (We call it "Running in" here) Anyway's, it's several factors that come into play that make it so. Such as , diesel is in itself a lubricator. Petrol is not. Ring tension and thickness are much higher in Diesel than petrol. Bore's in Diesel are often much harder as is the piston itself. All due to the fact that a Diesel has such a huge compression.
The rings MUST bed into the bore of a Diesel, BEFORE you ever put synthetics into the system. If the rings don't bed in, then the bore will glaze and the engine will burn oil.
Petrol engines are a very different kettle of fish compleatly and can have synthetics added even before the engine is fully run in with no major detrimental consequences.
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Old 01-06-2006, 04:36   #22
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Thanks Alan,
I'm not verry good at writen explanations.
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Old 01-06-2006, 13:37   #23
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Matt, you will need to get the crank tested for wear. It's not hard and something you can do yourself. You just need a godd micrometer. There is a good chance the crank maybe worn out of round. Especially if you have taken a mian bearing so far down so that it has worn the conrod. That part I find hard to believe. You sure???? Sure it's not just the bearing shell??? I can't see how you would have cut through the shell without causeing enormouse damage to the crank. Plus the sound when the engine was running would have been catastrophic. Double plus... there wouldn't have been that much clearance in the cylinder top, so the piston head would have been hammering the top of the head. ????????
I also doubt you would have stressed any other parts. So don't panic and willynilly replace things. Unless you want to spend the money and do a compleate rebuild, I would just do what's needed, which will be bearings and rings.
While on the subject of rings, you sure they need replacing??? Often with a diesel of high hrs, this is not a simple case of a bore hone. You need to check for wear. And most essentially, for any possible lip in the top of the bore. If there is one, it needs to be removed, or you will shatter the new rings in the first start up. You need to ensure the bore is not out of round, or the new rings will never bed in and it will smoke like the midnight train to Georgia. (hoping it was a steam engine, otherwise that joke's gonna bomb)
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Old 02-06-2006, 22:36   #24
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Allen,

All I had ro check the crank with is my dial calipers. It appears that the crank is within 2 thousands of being round as best I can tell. I can see where the piston hit the valves but it did seem to damage the piston or the valve. There is no rim around the top of the cyclinders. The motor was very low hours, it is 1990 model but sat unused for 10 years. I had my brother in the states get the parts for me and he told me that he bought piston ring kit so it looks like I am getting new pistons. He also said he went ahead a bought all new connect rods. Will the rings have the specs for the gap? Since everyone is talking oil, let me see if I understand. I should break it in with 30 SAE oil for the first 100 hours then switch to synthics, is this correct?

Thanks again all and I will update when I get all back togather. I can't wait to get back on the water.

Matt

p.s. I am starting to get to like this Mexican siastas.
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Old 03-06-2006, 01:40   #25
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Yep your right on with the oil.
I can't help with ring gap. It is possible that they are set anyway. Pat will have to look up his little book for you on that one.
Pat???
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Old 03-06-2006, 04:28   #26
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The ring gap should be good from the factory. I'll look it up later when I get to the shop.
Oil, start up should be on SAE 30 with a CD rating of higher. Rotellt T, Delo 400 Delvac are all good brands. I'd run standard oil for atleast 500hrs before thinkng about switching to synthetic. Personaly I don't see the need for it.
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Old 06-06-2006, 13:34   #27
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So Matt, is "working on boats in exotic places" all it's cracked up to be? <g>

I once found a really good machine shop in Cozumel...Interesting that the "conversational spanish" courses don't teach many technical terms.

I hope things are going well. Keep us informed.

Deep.
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Old 06-06-2006, 15:48   #28
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"with a CD rating " I think they're up to "CI" now. I mention that because last time we went looking for oil, the fellow couldn't find any with a CD rating and he apologized for not having any diesel oil in stock. He hadn't noticed, everything in stock was rated way beyond "CD" by now.<G>
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Old 06-06-2006, 17:55   #29
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"with a CD rating " I think they're up to "CI" now. I mention that because last time we went looking for oil, the fellow couldn't find any with a CD rating and he apologized for not having any diesel oil in stock. He hadn't noticed, everything in stock was rated way beyond "CD" by now.<G>
No, what I said was a CD rating OR higher...Dang, taken out of context again.
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Old 06-06-2006, 21:12   #30
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Pat, didn't mean to take you out of context (remember, get your wrist stamped for free re-admission<G>) just to say that even mentioning "CD" these days can bring mixed results.

Curiousity: Are there any oils with a "C"ompression engine rating that are still sold today, which are *lower* than CD? Or even just CD?
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