No we didnt yank the battery
leads. That was a desperate thought that crossed my mind.
But disconnecting the ignition wiring
from the ignition did nothing to stop the motor
, so I thought perhaps the battery wouldn't stop it either.
The tach was flakey the first time it was fired with crusty mechanic
. It didn't work at all, until a few seconds at the end of the test fire. (The day before comedy gold).
I pulled the 'dash' and inspected the connections and bulbs on the rear of the panel. Everything looked (surprisingly) very good, although a different (not tach) connector looked a little corroded, not terrible or anything mind you, but showing age and exposure to air (salt air) to a degree and not what I want to see when I'm looking at the regulator charging wiring
to, say, my Kawasaki bike which is very sensitive to corrosion
on the tiny gauge crap wires the factory installed.
Oh, and tested the bilge pump
, it works. The interior
lights work. Fresh water pump was active although no water from taps yet. Hadn't checked the valves for that yet nor do we have any idea if there is any water in the big fresh water tank
(is there a gauge for that somewhere?)
For black water storage
tank, does it just stop taking in 'stuff' and then you know it's full and have it pumped out?
I will post a pic of the electrical
panel next. Are there fuses
that reside behind the switch panel? There are two marked 'spare' and we aren't sure what that's for. Maybe adding in custom circuits?