Those Darned Outboard Securing Bolts.

[forsailbyowner]

Every small outboard Ive owned has those same stainless bolts running through aluminum threads. Every one froze up and gave constant problems even after coating with lanolin grease or whatever. The darned merc 3.5 that I bought new also had a tight fitting shift lever that was stainless running through an aluminum hole that would also freeze up after a short time of sitting. Then they put a plastic handle (replacement $75) to break off. (that motor lasted about a month longer than warranty)Well last time the securing bolt froze then broke I got sick of it and found a cheap fix. I drilled the aluminum threads out and used 2, 3/8" bugle head bolts with nuts on inside and out. Backing the inside nut out to tighten the bracket to the transom, and the other so the bolt doesnt fall out while transporting. They take an extra couple of minutes to tighten and a 9/16" wrench but Ive never been sitting there cussing at the stupidity of the setup. cost about $1 instead of the $24 per bolt assembly yamaha was asking. Might also deter a thief of convenience being you actually need a tool to remove the engine from the transom.

[Blue Stocking]

Don't forget the tilt-pin stainless bolt passing thru aluminum, to be secured with a STEEL wingnut.

[donradcliffe]

If you put a little tefgel on the threads, you shouldn't have any more problems with SS bolts in aluminum castings.

[forsailbyowner]

Originally Posted by donradcliffe

If you put a little tefgel on the threads, you shouldn't have any more problems with SS bolts in aluminum castings.

nice in theory but all it takes is one mechanical connection, to form a bridge for electrolysis to begin. I mistakenly thought that lanolin would work too.