The case of the intermittent water cooling system

[brownoarsman]

Took off the head. There is a greyish sheen that looks to be water contaminated oil on the paper towels I used to mop. I think what it may be is that despite the probably thousand plus revolutions with and without seafoam I've put the engine through since hydrolocking, there is still some water in the cylinders. Not enough to prevent it turning over, but enough to prevent it firing. At least there's no corrosion visible on the head or rocker assembly. Waiting on a call back from the mechanic now.


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[brownoarsman]

Or I guess it could just be condensation from the short little runs she had as I tried to get her going.


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[Terra Nova]

Or, more obvious, there is water getting in.

[brownoarsman]

Could be-but I've had the riser off for the last week and a half (the manifold was full of water when i took off the riser), and the raw water seacock shut off. I admit I open the seacock occasionally to lubricate the impeller (but never when the starter is turning over). Didn't want to remove the impeller in case the engine started to run away with all the crap I was putting in the air intake and I needed to cool the engine down before slamming the air cover on.
That said, haven't had any water coming out of the manifold and my crankcase oil never turned milky. Changed it and it's still golden (the engine hasn't run longer than a few seconds since!). If water was getting in under these circumstances, I would think it would have to be through a cracked block into the crankcase, but I'm obviously no expert, and I certainly don't want to consider the latter possibility yet
I'll eliminate the last step in the fuel system tomorrow when I can hopefully find a more experienced sailor to help me pull the injectors off and spray them into a jar. I've gone through every other part of the fuel system from tank to the nuts on the top of the injectors.



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[brownoarsman]

Trying to get the exhaust manifold off but one of the studs appears to have been coated with epoxy or some other glue before having the manifold slid onto it. A few minutes with a butane torch has not loosened the grip, nor has hammering the stud and the manifold. No ice presently so can't try cooling it down but that's next on the list of suggestions from Internet research. Any other ideas? Bigger torch?


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[DeepFrz]

Wow, that PO sure laid some traps for you didn't he. Maybe longer with the torch while tapping(?).

I think you will probably have to pry it off while the epoxy is soft if you can get it soft. If its something like JB Weld then you may be screwed...

[brownoarsman]

So much for the theory on few-owner boats
Going to try with a hotter, bigger torch while tapping with a hammer, and a pry bar. Luckily there's a fastenal in town if anything goes wrong ...
Thanks for the tips!


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[brownoarsman]

Got the bolt reshot after four minutes with a propane torch (and a number of shorter duration attempts with the torch before that), whatever is inside the manifold is coming out as steam, and light cracking sounds can be heard. However, the manifold is still stuck to the stud and the shim isn't budging the manifold off this last stud. What is this terrible adhesive?!
Not enough protruding thread to locknut the stud successfully either. Would you cut the stud and drill it out of the manifold? Or break the stud off by prying the manifold off with a wonderbar and then drill the stud out? I'm afraid prying the manifold off might bend/break the other studs.


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[brownoarsman]

Sorry, I meant that the stud was red hot, not reshot. The manifold was pretty hot too.


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[DeepFrz]

Cut the stud and drill. Don't try to break it as you might break the manifold.

break/crack

[brownoarsman]

Hrm, the manifold is about three inches wide; and the mechanic here advises that it will be difficult to drill I that straight with a handdrill inside the engine bay; of course, maybe only a bit of it needs to come off. I might remove the head and take the whole thing (head and exhaust manifold) to the machine shop doing the manifold work if this gets dicey.


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[Terra Nova]

Now you're talking.

[DeepFrz]

I might remove the head and take the whole thing (head and exhaust manifold) to the machine shop

That is a great idea.

[brownoarsman]

As it turns out the head has to come off anyways. I have the glow plugs out and figured it wasn't a bad idea to give the water passages a fresh water flush since salt water was probably just sitting in there, and the fresh water dribbled out of my bow most cylinder, which was the one that was full of water after running the engine last time.
I'm hoping it's only a blown head gasket, but on a 35 year old salt water cooled diesel ... Fingers crossed.


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[brownoarsman]

Probably also explains why the first flush of cooling water was always pretty black.


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