Teflon tape or antiseize?

WindDancer · 23-07-2006, 14:24

Will be replacing the screw in zinc's(3) in my Yanmar 3GM30, should I use teflon tape or antiseize compound on the threads? It is salt water cooled.

TIA
Forrest

billangiep · 23-07-2006, 17:27

Wind Dancer,
I would never put anything on the threads other than maybe a bit of dielectric for lubrication .....you want to keep continuity other wise the zincs are useless.
Bill,

hellosailor · 24-07-2006, 12:30

What Bill said. NO insulation around the zincs.

Other than that, a metal-rich antiseize like neverSeize (nickel & copper) probably wouldn't hurt, since it allows direct metal-to-metal contact when they are seated. But I've never heard of anyone needing antiseize on zinc plugs, did yours bind up last time?

Alan Wheeler · 24-07-2006, 12:54

What hellosailor said. Nickel is your best bet if the plug is brass and the block is cast, although lanocote also works very well and especially in aluminium. The threads still get enough electrical connection. Not not use PTFE tape, it can islolate and insulate the thread.

WindDancer · 25-07-2006, 10:13

Thanks Guys for info.

I had to use a flex bar and a 3' pipe extension to break loose the zincs in the block, the one on back of head was easy. I will try some of the "metal rich" antiseize.

hellosailor · 25-07-2006, 11:28

" and a 3' pipe extension "

OK, that's antiseize time by me.<G>

Boracay · 25-07-2006, 15:02

Is there such a thing as a conducting antiseize?

hellosailor · 25-07-2006, 15:22

"Is there such a thing as a conducting antiseize?"

Absolutely. There are FDA-approved food grade compounds which are usually teflon based, and those do not conduct. But most antiseize compounds are a mixture of nickel and copper dust in some type of oil. The oil may not conduct, but the dust content is so high that the paste itself will conduct. And note the instructions to use it sparingly, the stuff spreads like silver paint on your fingers and your tools and everything it touches and you wind up "decontaminating" for days if you've been too generous with it.<G>

**Kai Nui** · 25-07-2006, 17:56

,,,and the sink and your clothes, and the tool box and the cat

Yep, what they said

23-07-2006, 14:24	#1
WindDancer Registered User Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Phoenix, AZ Boat: Lancer 36 at Mission Bay, San Diego Posts: 29	Teflon tape or antiseize? Will be replacing the screw in zinc's(3) in my Yanmar 3GM30, should I use teflon tape or antiseize compound on the threads? It is salt water cooled. TIA Forrest

24-07-2006, 12:54	#4
Alan Wheeler Registered User Join Date: Dec 2003 Location: Marlborough Sounds. New Zealand Boat: Hartley Tahitian 45ft. Leisure Lady Posts: 8,040 Images: 102	What hellosailor said. Nickel is your best bet if the plug is brass and the block is cast, although lanocote also works very well and especially in aluminium. The threads still get enough electrical connection. Not not use PTFE tape, it can islolate and insulate the thread. __________________ Wheels For God so loved the world..........He didn't send a committee.

25-07-2006, 15:02	#7
Boracay Registered User Join Date: Feb 2004 Location: nr Blackwattle Bay,Sydney, NSW, Australia Boat: Steel Roberts Offshore 44 Posts: 1,194 Images: 12	Conductive Antiseize Is there such a thing as a conducting antiseize?

25-07-2006, 17:56	#9
Kai Nui Captain Site Administrator Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Moss Landing, Ca Boat: 37' Piver Lodestar - Kai Nui Posts: 4,273 Images: 80	,,,and the sink and your clothes, and the tool box and the cat Yep, what they said __________________ There is no better bilge pump than a scared sailor with a bucket. KAI NUI

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23-07-2006, 17:27	#2
billangiep Registered User Join Date: Aug 2004 Location: Hudson, Florida Boat: Angela M. Bayfield 32c Posts: 48	Wind Dancer, I would never put anything on the threads other than maybe a bit of dielectric for lubrication .....you want to keep continuity other wise the zincs are useless. Bill,

24-07-2006, 12:30	#3
hellosailor Registered User Join Date: Apr 2006 Posts: 3,234	What Bill said. NO insulation around the zincs. Other than that, a metal-rich antiseize like neverSeize (nickel & copper) probably wouldn't hurt, since it allows direct metal-to-metal contact when they are seated. But I've never heard of anyone needing antiseize on zinc plugs, did yours bind up last time?

25-07-2006, 10:13	#5
WindDancer Registered User Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Phoenix, AZ Boat: Lancer 36 at Mission Bay, San Diego Posts: 29	Thanks Guys for info. I had to use a flex bar and a 3' pipe extension to break loose the zincs in the block, the one on back of head was easy. I will try some of the "metal rich" antiseize.

25-07-2006, 11:28	#6
hellosailor Registered User Join Date: Apr 2006 Posts: 3,234	" and a 3' pipe extension " OK, that's antiseize time by me.<G>

25-07-2006, 15:22	#8
hellosailor Registered User Join Date: Apr 2006 Posts: 3,234	"Is there such a thing as a conducting antiseize?" Absolutely. There are FDA-approved food grade compounds which are usually teflon based, and those do not conduct. But most antiseize compounds are a mixture of nickel and copper dust in some type of oil. The oil may not conduct, but the dust content is so high that the paste itself will conduct. And note the instructions to use it sparingly, the stuff spreads like silver paint on your fingers and your tools and everything it touches and you wind up "decontaminating" for days if you've been too generous with it.<G>

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