Taking 3QM30 off its Mounts

[gmjosey]

Took off my oil pan and found it was not the cause of my oil leak. Now I'm thinking it's probably the rear main seal. Ergo,the engine must come off its mounts. I'm thinking of building a temp.,wood contraption so I can move the engine into the cabin and work on it,there.
Has anyone built a wood mount for their engine? Have you any tips?

[bill good]

Made 2 timber "A" frames with a solid pipe placed in the cross over of the tops of the "A". Small block & tackle or simular to lift. Check the external oil pipes for pin holes.

It was a fun job in the narrow cat hulls.

Regards Bill

[Wireless1]

Just removed a Yanmar 3GMD from under the galley and dinette seat in my Freedom 32 cat sloop by myself. No "A" frame required. I just made a lifting beam out of three 2x4's 36 inches long and screwed the three pieces together with drywall screws to create a 4x6 beam. I laid this makeshift beam outside and across the main Lewmar hatch over the dinette (clamped in place with bar clamps), and then lashed about 6 turns of half inch yacht braid in loose loops around the beam so I could put the lifting hook on all six loops. The lift I used was a Harbor Freight 1 1/2 ton ratcheting chain lift (NOT a come-along). I also used a Harbor Freight engine load leveler. (search thier website, it's cheap and worth it's weight in gold = $18.00) The load leveler was invaluable because as I began to lift the motor it also moved forward. When it moved up and forward I used a rubber mallet to pound a couple of wood skids made from 2x4's under the front motor mounts. Then used the load leveler adjusted for rear lift to move the leverage to the rear of the engine. Cranking up again the rear motor mounts moved up and I was then able to pound the skids under the rear motor mounts. Now the engine's four mounts were all sitting on the 2x4 skids about 4 feet long. Think Skis... Then I just continued lifting and that dragged the engine up and forward onto the skis and into the main salon. A photo is worth a 1000 words. The hardest part of the job was the anxiety of trying to figure out how, me, alone was going to get this done. The actual doing of it was not that hard. (getting the bottom nuts off the motor mounts under the fiber glass channel beds was worse than the enitre motor lifting and moving). Once the engine was sitting on it's skids in the main cabin I leveled the load leveler and lifted it up again and lag bolted the motor mounts to small blocks of wood so I could slide it aft (on carpet) and then the yard crane lifted it out of the boat. In your case you could just work on it in the main salon. Once the load leveler is on it you can lift it, turn it, whatever you want easily. Good luck...

[gmjosey]

Thank you , wireless 1. Great info.

[gmjosey]

OK I have the 3QM30 Yanmar off its mounts and into the cabin of my C&C 40-2 where I plan to check and possibly replace the rear seal. Now what? I have to be walked through this because I've never done this before. I don't want to create any more problems.

[foggysail]

Its been some time since I worked on engines and never a diesel. I do imagine though that the rear main seals are similar. The seals I changed in my youth required removing the rear main bearing half to get access to the seal.

I would look hard at other places before I dropped the pan unless you have lots of experience. Some other things to consider include the oil breather and I don't know where it is located on your engine. If the breather is plugged or restricted, the engine will blow out oil, many times through the dip stick.

I had an oil leak on one of my Crusaders. I could only think of the worst. But I lucked out, the problem was the oil pressure sender had a leak.

WOOPS--- my post was too late. Good luck, I hope you correct the problems.

[sailorchic34]

Pull the transmission off, remove damper plate and flywheel.breaking free the flywheel bolts may take a helper with a straight bland screwdriver jamming the flywheel gear to keep the flywheel from turning while you break the bolts loose. May need to remove flywheel housing, but maybe not.If you have to remove the housing, remove the starter first.

Then the rear seal will be there for you to remove and replace. You might need to screw a self tapping screw into the seal to pry it up.

Install the new seal using a block of wood to distribute the tapping force as you gently tap it into place with a hammer. Moving the around the edge till the seal is tapped in.

Then just reinstall, being sure to torque the flywheel bolts the proper amount.