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Old 01-08-2010, 12:04   #31
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Synthetics do reduce wear but the additives get used up just as fast as non-synthetic oil. I don't think using synthetic oil justifies greater oil change periods. Keep in mind the oil filter also becomes less effective over time and this has nothing to do with which type of oil you use.
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Old 01-08-2010, 12:41   #32
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All synthetic oil is manufactured under licence from Mobile. So buy the cheapest being offered. Mobile owns the patients, they found it, they developed it and they own it.

That being said I use synthetic in my boat and cars. The difference on interval is instead of 3k miles in my cars with regular oil I go to the factory recommended interval 5k or 6k or when the change oil light comes on.
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Old 01-08-2010, 12:53   #33
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Muke,

Are you sure about that statement?

We, the U.S., found synthetic oil during World War II..the German's would try to blow up some their vehicles by placing rocks on the gas pedal. the oil saved the motor.

I think Amsoil and Royal Purple would not agree about the Mobil thing....just asking..I'm not for sure..
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Old 01-08-2010, 15:21   #34
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Oil Test Results

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Greg,

In another thread you were getting a oil analysis done. How did that turn out?
Army Chief, Thanks for reminding me to close the loop on this subject.

I switched both engines to Amsoil before our last cruise. I put 170 hours on the port engine during the cruise without an oil change, but I did change the filter at 100 hrs. The oil test showed everything normal and the oil did not require changing. The wear metals, soot levels, water content were all in good shape. In the remarks section, the report stated, "Data indicates no abnormal findings. Resample at normal interval; Filter change acknowledged; Oil is suitable for continued use." When I look at the oil on the dipstick, it is not black like it was with petroleum oil... it looks like a dark caramel color and you can see thru it. I'll try to take a picture of it and post it.

On the starboard engine I had engine problems that I don't believe were related to the oil (see Volvo Engine Rebuild? thread). That engine had a cracked head which let coolant into the #2 cylinder and the water pitted the head, piston and exhaust valve. I was running on two cylinders only. This engine had 140hrs on the oil and the report recommended changing oil, filter and tearing down the engine to find a critical problem with coolant in oil and severe level of wear metals. The oil on the dip stick was the usual pitch-black color. The cracked head was due to an overheat condition that I believe was caused by a restricted exhaust elbow. The surprising part of this story was the limited damage caused by the cracked head. The #2 cylinder wall was in good shape and so were the rod bearings. Rather than doing a complete overhaul; I replaced one piston/rings and had the head repaired with a valve job. Perhaps the synthetic oil prevented further damage, but that is pure guesswork on my part.

Based on my experience with the port engine, I think doubling the change interval from 100 to 200 hours for my engine is realistic. I do believe that synthetic has lots of advantages and doubling the interval makes it a win-win situation for me.... same cost but half the work and half the storage problem.
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Old 01-08-2010, 15:33   #35
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So where do I get some in the UK to try?
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Old 02-08-2010, 03:09   #36
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Greg,

I knew it would be good. I'm a ASE Master and Chrysler/Jeep Master technician. In the 4.0L inline 6 cylinder Jeep's...we would have bad carbon in the valve cover area..it would encase itself around the valve springs and fill up the valve cover area. When you removed the valve cover, it looked like the valve cover was still on. Yo uhad to chisel it all away. I used to show th ecustomers it and then convert them to synthetic. Then the next time I resealed their valve cover, bring them out and show them how clean it was.

Sold. I've used synthetics in all my equipment since 1987.
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Old 02-08-2010, 05:46   #37
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I dont no,may be im old fashend;250 hrs change oil and filters,look at impella,anodes and battery level.Let engine idle for 5 minates before closing down,its worked for 40 yrs.
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Old 02-08-2010, 10:44   #38
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Greg,

I knew it would be good. I'm a ASE Master and Chrysler/Jeep Master technician. In the 4.0L inline 6 cylinder Jeep's...we would have bad carbon in the valve cover area..it would encase itself around the valve springs and fill up the valve cover area. When you removed the valve cover, it looked like the valve cover was still on. Yo uhad to chisel it all away. I used to show th ecustomers it and then convert them to synthetic. Then the next time I resealed their valve cover, bring them out and show them how clean it was.

Sold. I've used synthetics in all my equipment since 1987.
Were those carboned-up engines being maintained? I used to have one, never had that problem (at all), and used dino oil. But I did change it regularly. The engine had over 125K miles on it when I sold it.
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Old 02-08-2010, 10:45   #39
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Yes sir, most of my regular customers brought their Jeeps in for all their regular services.
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Old 02-08-2010, 12:32   #40
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Chief, I suspect the "coal oil" from WW2 was very different from modern synthetics, which are usually made from petroleum stock not coals. Who has the patents...I don't know, that would be a long bit to research.

But I certainly will second what you said about tar in the head covers. 25+ years ago my friend's ex was a PR exec for Mobil and he gave me the "whole" package on the radical new Mobil1, including tear-downs of police and taxi fleet engines, hald run with Mobil1 half with conventional premium oil. The ones run with Mobil1 were literally "bare metal" clean after 50,000 miles of hard use.

That sold me, and I've been running it ever since. I know that all it takes is one glob of tar to clog one oil passage and your motor is junk. Had that once too. Back in the 70's there were NO conventional oils that would hold their SAE ratings after 6 months in service, but Mobil1 holds after a full year. It isn't just a matter of additives, or how generous they are being with them.

I've never seen a conventional motor oil with moly lubricants in it, although I'm sure someone makes them by now. But when I sent in my first Mobil1 for analysis? Moly was in there. And that doesn't wear out or filiter out, it polishes INTO the engine metal and provides a smoother surface.

Anjou, you get the synthetics from any shop that sells the same brands. Probably any gas station or auto chain. Take your cell and if you hasve any questions, there's usually a contact number (in the US a toll-free number) on the back of each container.
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Old 02-08-2010, 19:07   #41
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Oil Pic

Here is a pic of the port engine dip stick with 172 hours on the synthetic oil. I just changed the filter and plan on waiting until 200 hrs to change oil. The oil is dark caramel color, but not pitch-black like petroleum oil.
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Old 02-08-2010, 19:15   #42
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Quote:
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Anjou, you get the synthetics from any shop that sells the same brands. Probably any gas station or auto chain. Take your cell and if you hasve any questions, there's usually a contact number (in the US a toll-free number) on the back of each container.
Royal Purple :

Royal Purple International Dealers

Amsoil:

AMSOIL Online Store - Synthetic Oil, Lubricants, Air Filters, Oil Filters Gear Oil
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Old 25-07-2015, 09:56   #43
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Re: Synthetic Oil Change Frequency

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All synthetic oil is refined under licence granted by Mobile as in Mobile One. VW specifies synthetic in all its Diesels and all my cars and truck get synthetic from time of new on, with oil changes at 5k.

Boat engines are being run uphill all the time and with that in mind I will shell out or Shell in for oil changes recommended for severe service and use synthetic. What is a little oil vs and early overhaul?
As a followup, when I purchased a new F-150 in 2011, my dealer gave me a run-thru of different items and demonstrated how this and that worked. Two things he stressed. 1) it came with full synthetic oil from the factory and that's what should be used @ 7500 miles and 2) the coolant was good for between 100,000 and 150,000 miles.

Since then, I have read several articles on synthetic oils and who makes the best oil at different price points. One thing I found interesting was that WalMart brand full synthetic was supposed to be as good as the leading brands, based on the API classification being the same as the top synthetics, albeit at a much lower price per gallon. I've not tried WalMart brand synthetic (I'm not that brave). But if true, it would save mucho bucks.

That said, I don't go, and would never go over 7,500 miles in my vehicles in between changes, regardless of what the oil manufacturer says. Maybe the oil is OK, but I don't trust any oil filter past 7,500 miles. Have used Mobile One full synthetic in my last 5 vehicles, no engine issues at all. I also use Mobile 1 Delvac @ 200 hrs and have had no issues.
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Old 25-07-2015, 10:26   #44
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Re: Synthetic Oil Change Frequency

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...

That said, I don't go, and would never go over 7,500 miles in my vehicles in between changes, regardless of what the oil manufacturer says. Maybe the oil is OK, but I don't trust any oil filter past 7,500 miles. Have used Mobile One full synthetic in my last 5 vehicles, no engine issues at all. I also use Mobile 1 Delvac @ 200 hrs and have had no issues.
I have run extended oil change intervals on my truck and tractor engine for years. Right now my F350 engine oil is at 11,000 miles, the manual says it should be changed at 5,000 miles, and I will try to change around 12,000 miles but it might go to 14,000.

When I change the oil, unless something is wearing down in the engine, I will be throwing away perfectly good oil. How will I know? I get the oil tested.

As part of the UOA(Used Oil Analysis) I get the TBN checked. TBN is a measure of how much acid is in the oil, and if the TBN is 0 or there about, the oil needs to be changed. The newer oils since ULSD came out are lower in TBN because it is not needed, and having said that, I don't think I have seen a TBN level lower than 6 or so in the UOA. The oil I have been using has a TBN of 12 or so out of the bucket.

The other numbers on the oil are in pretty good shape as well.

My driving though is rural highway driving with a tad bit of traffic. If one is in stop and go traffic one can easily have to change the oil because of fuel in the oil due to the idling time. Been There Done That and have the UOA to show it. Not bad numbers and numbers that are in spec but who wants fuel in their oil?

Synthetic can be good in some circumstances and not in others. I just use what saves me time and money for my usage. I have been buying a JD 0Wx40 oil but the price was pretty high for the last bucket I bought compared to earlier buys so I might go back to using Shell 5Wx40. Last time I checked, Shell was on Amazon with a good price and we get free shipping. But at oil buy time I will look at prices and see what is best price/performance wise.

Later,
Dan
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Old 25-07-2015, 11:31   #45
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Re: Synthetic Oil Change Frequency

I have been using synthetic in both Volvo Pentas MD2030B's for 5 years and have been doing oil analysis every year. We have been averaging about 200hrs on each engine during our annual Bahamas cruises. The first couple years, we changed filters at 100 hrs, but last 3 years we have not changed filters until the end of the cruise. All the analyses have come back showing that oil and filter is still serviceable after double the recommended hours listed by Volvo. My Volvo saildrives use the same oil and I have been using the same synthetic for five years with no issues. I'm a believer in the benefits of synthetic oil. The cost of oil change is double, but the interval is double and my labor is cut in half so it's a "no brainer" for me.
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