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Old 20-05-2019, 09:51   #1
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Stuffing box drip question

I am trying to adjust the packing nut on my stuffing box because it was dripping too fast.

Everything I have read (I am not a marine mechanic by any stretch) talks about the desired drip rate when the shaft is turning and assumes that it will drip more when it is turning than when the motor is off or out of gear. In fact, most articles suggest that you can adjust it so there is no drip at all except when it's in gear.

My problem is that I can only seem to achieve the opposite. I can get the slow, steady drip I want when the shaft is not turning, but when I put it in gear I do not see any drip. I'm assuming that there is lubrication going on, but I'm afraid to tighten the nut down further to the point there is zero drip when the shaft is NOT turning.

Any experience with this or suggestions? Thanks in advance.
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Old 20-05-2019, 10:26   #2
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Re: Stuffing box drip question

Quote:
Originally Posted by HJ51 View Post
I am trying to adjust the packing nut on my stuffing box because it was dripping too fast.

Everything I have read (I am not a marine mechanic by any stretch) talks about the desired drip rate when the shaft is turning and assumes that it will drip more when it is turning than when the motor is off or out of gear. In fact, most articles suggest that you can adjust it so there is no drip at all except when it's in gear.

My problem is that I can only seem to achieve the opposite. I can get the slow, steady drip I want when the shaft is not turning, but when I put it in gear I do not see any drip. I'm assuming that there is lubrication going on, but I'm afraid to tighten the nut down further to the point there is zero drip when the shaft is NOT turning.



Any experience with this or suggestions? Thanks in advance.
Anyway to video this?
One drip every 5 seconds is my preferred drip.
As long as you see it drip occasionally, or see water around the packing gland face, your fine.
Water is the lubricant as you know.
The newer packing types PTFE, can be tightened more due to the PTFE coating.
They all require some break in time.
You could monitor packing gland temp underway and adjust with someone at the helm while you adjust the gland.
Use an infrared thermometer.
Don't forget to pin or tighten the locknut on the packing gland.
If your engine mounts are soft or that engine moves around a lot, in gear, all engines torque toward one side or the other, the shaft will move as well, but the packing gland is restricted in its movement due to the packing gland to prop tube hose.
This can cause heating of the gland if it is touching the gland face under torque.
Keep adjusting, and monitor the results.
I'm betting you'll find the sweet spot.
Cheers
SV Cloud Duster
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Old 20-05-2019, 10:32   #3
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Re: Stuffing box drip question

I wonder if the drip is slow enough that the water is just spinning on the shaft? At any rate I would think your drip rate noted while not turning is adequate. Touch it after running a while, is it hot? If not, you're good.
I have found it very hard to get it just right. Going from nothing to too much often.
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Old 20-05-2019, 13:37   #4
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Re: Stuffing box drip question

I have the Teflon packing and have had it for a couple of years now.
I have zero drips when sitting and no drips when underway, but you can see a water ring when running but it never drips.
I’m not concerned as it’s only barely warm to the touch after hours of motoring, it never gets very warm, and temp and not waterflow is I believe the concern.

Hopefully I won’t find a ruined shaft when I finally pull it
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Old 21-05-2019, 09:39   #5
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Re: Stuffing box drip question

Quote:
Originally Posted by HJ51 View Post
I am trying to adjust the packing nut on my stuffing box because it was dripping too fast.

Everything I have read (I am not a marine mechanic by any stretch) talks about the desired drip rate when the shaft is turning and assumes that it will drip more when it is turning than when the motor is off or out of gear. In fact, most articles suggest that you can adjust it so there is no drip at all except when it's in gear.

My problem is that I can only seem to achieve the opposite. I can get the slow, steady drip I want when the shaft is not turning, but when I put it in gear I do not see any drip. I'm assuming that there is lubrication going on, but I'm afraid to tighten the nut down further to the point there is zero drip when the shaft is NOT turning.

Any experience with this or suggestions? Thanks in advance.
You may not be able to see a drip per se because the shaft is slinging it
to the sides. The objective of the drip is to cool the shaft so use your infrared thermometer with laser to check the temperature of the packing nut.

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Old 21-05-2019, 11:16   #6
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Re: Stuffing box drip question

Quote:
Originally Posted by a64pilot View Post
I have the Teflon packing and have had it for a couple of years now.
I have zero drips when sitting and no drips when underway, but you can see a water ring when running but it never drips.
I’m not concerned as it’s only barely warm to the touch after hours of motoring, it never gets very warm, and temp and not waterflow is I believe the concern.

Hopefully I won’t find a ruined shaft when I finally pull it

I have the Teflon packing as well and experience the same... zero drips when sitting and no drips when underway but can see a water ring. At first I was concerned but after checking with an infrared thermometer, found there was very little heat generated after hours of operation.
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Old 21-05-2019, 19:17   #7
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Re: Stuffing box drip question

The packing gland temperature is the key. Aim for about 10 to 15 degrees higher than sea temp. If you are getting too much water ingress at this point, it's time to change the packing. Use the newish Teflon material.....much more sensitive to very slight adjustment at the nut. Best of luck!
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Old 22-05-2019, 01:41   #8
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Re: Stuffing box drip question

I had one that always dripped water, especially when under way. I found out they are SUPPOSED to do that, so I just let it drip, but I put a lip made from the end of a plastic detergent container cut so I could slip it over the end, so that the drips were directed into a plastic box--cost seven dollars, and a float switch and small submersible bilge pump cost another thirty. That pumped the drips overboard, once there had accumulated enough to activate the switch, and I was back to dry bilges.
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