Stripped Injector Nut Replacement

[Nineteen]

Originally Posted by theway

Thank you, very helpful.

I finally got it loose, after removing the fuel return so I can get more rotation and access to the nut, which still has one or two good sides. And yup, 17mm is the size.

Those wrenches look like they might solve the problem altogether, or at least give me another year or two from the current nut. I kept thinking I need a “Crescent wrench”, which I think covers 4 side, but 6 is amazing.

Maybe I’ll get a new one line and take it as a spare. I think the guy that cleaned my injectors cranked down on it with one of these good wrenches... but then again I’m not completely sure he had to touch these in his process, but it was tighter than I can imagine I’d ever tight something like that... maybe I just want someone to blame ;-)

Thanks again.

Hi

They are tube spanners and are available in A/F and Metric sizes. They are generally the first choice for the B nuts on tubes. Like all tools you generally get what you pay for so be wary of 'cheapies'. They will either have really thick sidewalls which will restrict access, or they will mimic the dearer ones with thinner sidewalls and spread under load.

Oh and the most important thing with tightening the B nuts - they only need to be nipped. The pipe end does the sealing. If you overtorque them you will damage the ends or round off the nuts trying to undo them.

They dont hold on a wing😉

Cheers Tom

[Larry T.]

One of the best moves I have ever made is to buy six point sockets and six point combination wrenches. I hate the 12 points as nine times out of ten they will round out a nut that has been in place for years. I think a crescent wrench is even worse. Glad you got it apart!!

[theway]

Originally Posted by Nineteen

Hi

They are tube spanners and are available in A/F and Metric sizes. They are generally the first choice for the B nuts on tubes. Like all tools you generally get what you pay for so be wary of 'cheapies'. They will either have really thick sidewalls which will restrict access, or they will mimic the dearer ones with thinner sidewalls and spread under load.

Oh and the most important thing with tightening the B nuts - they only need to be nipped. The pipe end does the sealing. If you overtorque them you will damage the ends or round off the nuts trying to undo them.

They dont hold on a wing[emoji6]

Cheers Tom

Thanks Tom, it looks like Bunnings has some, called Flare Nut Spanners... Do you know a good brand to get?

[Quadrille in JB]

Never, never, never use a crescent wrench on a critical part!

If you want to avoid the situation you’re in.

[Nineteen]

Originally Posted by theway

Thanks Tom, it looks like Bunnings has some, called Flare Nut Spanners... Do you know a good brand to get?

Attachment 168154

Hi
There is a Total Tools branch in Port that will be able to supply a good set. The Repco brand is not a bad option either and they will also have a branch there.

I actually have Craftsman from the USA that have lasted 30+ years at work but Stahwille is my preferred choice as they really are a better alloy , Stanley/Proto, Kingcrome, Sidchrome are other reasonable choices.

I understand that you may not use these to make a living but there is nothing worse than buying a tool and having it let you down at the worst time.
A crowsfoot set is also an option if a flare nut spanner cant be swung due other obstacles.

Cheers Tom

[Uncle Bob]

Originally Posted by theway

Thanks Tom, it looks like Bunnings has some, called Flare Nut Spanners... Do you know a good brand to get?

Attachment 168154

Hi those are the type that you need, however the loads on them can be high so in my opinion you are better off buying the sizes that you need from a quality auto repair or parts store, not a cheap hardware or auto parts store, this is an example of a situation where better is SOO much better,

[Nineteen]

Originally Posted by Nineteen

Hi
There is a Total Tools branch in Port that will be able to supply a good set. The Repco brand is not a bad option either and they will also have a branch there.

I actually have Craftsman from the USA that have lasted 30+ years at work but Stahwille is my preferred choice as they really are a better alloy , Stanley/Proto, Kingcrome, Sidchrome are other reasonable choices.

I understand that you may not use these to make a living but there is nothing worse than buying a tool and having it let you down at the worst time.
A crowsfoot set is also an option if a flare nut spanner cant be swung due other obstacles.

Cheers Tom

Sorry

Crowsfoot wrenches come as open end, 6 point and 12 point designs. 12 will give you the smallest wall and index angle with 6 point beint the strongest in general.
But as I said before - you are not trying to hold the wing on👍

Cheers Tom

[Nineteen]

Originally Posted by Uncle Bob

Hi those are the type that you need, however the loads on them can be high so in my opinion you are better off buying the sizes that you need from a quality auto repair or parts store, not a cheap hardware or auto parts store, this is an example of a situation where better is SOO much better, [emoji2]

+1 on this👍

Originally Posted by Nineteen

Sorry

Crowsfoot wrenches come as open end, 6 piont and 12 point designs. 12 will give you the smallest wall and index angle with 6 point beint the strongest in general.
But as I said before - you are not trying to hold the wing on👍

Cheers Tom

[Wotname]

Or you could get an Injector wrench / spanner like this https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/17mm-Ope...-/192211104936

I note that there are now ratchet flare nut spanners - hadn't seen one of them before

As for brands, you have good advice unthread. My favourite top shelf spanners are equally Snap-On and Stahwille followed by Facom and then equally Kingcrome, Sidchrome and finally Stanley/Proto/Craftsman.

[Barney21]

Get your old one out ,take it to any Haudraulic service guy they will make a new one quicker than you can burn toast! Well? easy as you can!

[shakey doug]

G'day Austin, Welcome to OZ. Any half decent diesel injection shop should be able to make a new line if Minards are unable help, it may not be the same shape but will get you out of trouble. Cable ties are often use to tension lines to help combat pulse oscillation, many engine makers run different length lines. It pays to have a straight injector line made up with fittings long enough to reach the furthest injector on board, it can then be bent to fit all. The spanner type you need is called a flare nut spanner these can save a lot of unnecessary dismantling

[Barney21]

If you buy the Bunnings quality you deserve all the trouble you get ! The same goes for Ebay. Go for the brands suggested.
If you dont appreciate "Good Quality " get a qualified mechanic to fix it, he wont use crap tools.

[boeing1]

you will also need to bleed the fuel line after installation, always use the correct size wrench

[four winds]

theway, are you half way around the world on a Pearson 323?

Also, the factory injector lines are probably the most reasonably priced parts on the 3gm30. If readily available probably less hassle than having one made.

[theway]

Originally Posted by four winds

theway, are you half way around the world on a Pearson 323?

Also, the factory injector lines are probably the most reasonably priced parts on the 3gm30. If readily available probably less hassle than having one made.

I’d say it’s more like a third of the way around... ;-) But yes, I came over to Australia on the 323.

I would probably go with the factory line. I’ll check the availability and price. But first I’m going find a nice set of flare wrenches and see how “rounded” the nut really is... because it’s not like I tighten and loosen it everyday.