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Old 26-05-2006, 17:23   #16
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12-volt Electric Fuel Pump, 7 to 9 psi, 45 GPH Delivery CapacityZX738898AKit$41.99This should solve your problem for a mere $41.99
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Old 26-05-2006, 17:27   #17
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An essential part...

As one who eternally plans to go cruising one of the key issues is how to take fuel from the tank, remove undesirables from it, and deliver it to the engine.
If we could get together a shopping list of parts to assemble such a system it may help a few people.
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Old 26-05-2006, 17:56   #18
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Jentine, that's exactly the pump I am talking about.

Chris, great idea, but the problem is depending on engine size, different flows will require different filter specs. However, I and I am sure others will be very happy to come up with a system design.
So OK, lets all come up with what the system spec should be.
I suggest we start at the tank. If I were building a tank from scratch, the first thing I would do is have a drop in the bottom of the tank that allows water to settle to one point. At that point can be fitted a drain to run water off.
Any other thoughts on that?????
The same on the top of the tank where the air vent is taken from. This allows compleate filling of a large area tank with out blowing dribbles of fuel out till it is compleately fill.
Any thoughts???
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Old 26-05-2006, 19:01   #19
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"Our smallest pump--3"H x 2-1/2"W x 3"L, weighs just 18 oz. Mount easily in tight spots--no need to remove old pump in most instances. Not for vehicles with fuel or throttle body injection, nor marine engines. Can also be used as utility pump for industrial and farm machines. Includes hardware and instructions. Choose the pressure/delivery capacity best suited to your needs."

Denying sutibility for marine applications in the descrigtion.
They don't want the liability for a non-ignition protected unit starting something I assume.
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Old 26-05-2006, 22:13   #20
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45 gallons per HOUR or 3/4 gallons per minute - VERY slow rate.
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Old 26-05-2006, 23:20   #21
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Why would you want 45Gal per hr?? Most engines are in the 1-2gal /hr and the real big engines are still only 14 or so. As long as the return is taken back to the filter so as the pump is not returning fule to a tank never endingly, those little units should be fine.
Major concern however, would be that they are not very marinised. The body would rust easily. So a good protective paint would be required. I imagine that would be the reason why they are not recomended for a marine application.
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Old 27-05-2006, 01:52   #22
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No drain?

In terms of construction unless one is building a steel tank it is difficult to get a strong leakproof drain. This would particularly apply to fibreglass/epoxy tanks.
I am assuming that normal practice is to have a bottom point, to which all sediment/water drains, that would have to be somehow cleaned every so often.
What I am wondering is about all the other bits. i.e. stainless steel piping, taps, joins etc? Where can these be found?
From where I am looking the project becomes simple if one has all the bits.
My preference would be to have a lift pump from the main tank(s) to the day tank (which should also have a sight "glass" and be calibrated).
I "sort of" have planning permission for a trawler.
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Old 27-05-2006, 03:13   #23
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So the tanks on your design would be Glass/epoxy Chris???
The next question would be, Survey?? Is the boat going to be required to make any regulations??? This may call for a different tank material. Certainly for survey requirments in NZ, the fuel lines MUST be steel. Mine are all Galv pipe. Not sure I would want to go SST. Anyways,
Do you have a company called Micowakefeild. I thought that was an Ozy company, but we have them here in Nz. They supply SST tube and fittings and valve. Otherwise, a hardraulics specialist like ENZED, Parker, Hydrolink or what ever, should also have SST. You can also use haydraulic hoses for fuel lines asthese are internaly steel braided. The firm can then crimp on what ever fittings you would like to fit whatever.
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Old 27-05-2006, 05:15   #24
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Alan - I posted with MY situation in mind, not what was being talked about - DOH! I'm trying to get fuel to circulate through a "fuel purifier" - it needs a good 3 to 4 gpm rate. ALSO - it needs to be rated to run continuously. Most of the more inexpensive pumps are rated for 15 minutes out of an hour.

As to why they are not recommended for Marine applications - they are not CG approved, and / or proven to be ignition safe.
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Old 27-05-2006, 06:39   #25
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I use the Facet pump linked to above on a Universal (Kubota) diesel. Bought it at the local autoparts store for ~$25 and it has been running for years. It appears to be an exact replacement for the "Kubota" labelled original pump. I called Facet and they said they made the pumps for Kubota but "couldn't recommend it as a replacement". Pushing the point further, I realized that their continual use of the phrase "could not" (with a wink and nod) instead of "would not" simply meant that they had an obligation to Kubota to not undercut the OEM parts. Haven't crossed an ocean under motor, but it certainly runs 8-10 hours straight without incident.

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Old 27-05-2006, 06:40   #26
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Oops, I meant to say Universal labelled and having an obligation to Universal - not Kubota.

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Old 27-05-2006, 07:02   #27
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Mark,
You are correct. Westerbeke/Universal uses the Facet pump exclusivly. They also diferentiate between gas and diesel. This make me think the part number Westerbeke is buying is different from the aftermarket replacement unit. Personaly on an engine I'll stick with what's spec'd on a scrubber anything goes.
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Old 27-05-2006, 07:03   #28
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Thomas,
Now that I see the big picture, let me recomend the Holley "blue" fuel pump.
It's continous rated and abot $99.00 at Auto Zone. It has a vane style self priming pump head mated to a large DC motor. I've been using one on my scrubber for 6 years with out any problems.
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Old 27-05-2006, 09:56   #29
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Thanks Pat - I'll check it out today!!
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Old 27-05-2006, 17:26   #30
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Alan-
"At that point can be fitted a drain to run water off.
Any other thoughts on that?????"
Sure. Installing a drain should be no problem but rather than having it tapped into the thin wall of a tank, I think I'd have a piece of 3/8" (5-6mm) plate welded up where I wanted the drain, and then have that tapped for the drain plug, so there was a good bit of thread engaged. And then (as per the thread about lost oil) also make sure the drain plug was drilled for a safety wire, or other arrangement made to secure it.

But I'm fairly sure any drain plug will bring down the wrath of any USCG or private insurance surveys, at least here in the US. Your mileage may vary in NZ.<G>

Nevertheless...I like the idea of a drain! If they're safe enough to use on aircraft, they damn well ought to be workable on boats.
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