Starter issue: starter motor takes several attempts

[jmschmidt]

I have the same problem, usually when cold. New solenoid didn't help. New batteries didn't help. Upgraded cables didn't help. New relays didn't help. Usually starts right up when warm but some times even warm it takes a couple of bounces with the key in the switch. Sometimes ganging start and house batteries (over 600ah) works pretty good. If you find out let us know.

[seabreez]

Originally Posted by Ryban

System is as follows:

1. Engine is a Beta 14.
2. Batteries are a 12V starter battery in good condition (800 CCA) and 2 x 6V GC2 batteries in series for 230AH (brand new)

I'm looking for a diagnosis based on the following symptoms:

On-starting:
1. Battery banks are combined.
2. Ignition is turned to the start position
3. A "click" is heard, but the starter motor does not turn over.
4. If I return the key to the off position, and back to the start position, the same click is heard, and nothing happens.
5. If I wait 15-30 seconds, and attempt again, the engine starts no problem.

I'm obviously no expert, but it seems to me not to be an issue with the batteries, as the engine starts no problem. In my diesel-engine-ignorant mind, it almost sounds like the starter motor needs a little metaphorical warming up, or perhaps is stuck, and the several start attempts eventually get it going.

What are your ideas?

No doubt a solenoid problem. the disc in the solenoid is carbonized and not making contact. When you keep trying the disc rotates and eventually make contact on a good spot and starts... This will only get worse. Replace the solenoid.

[seabreez]

Originally Posted by Lepke

You have a problem in the solenoid or cable connections, neg & pos. Intermittent starter most likely is the solenoid. In the solenoid are two post like contacts that touch a disk. All made of copper. One end of the contact post is connected to the battery cable, the other post connects directly to the starter, and when energized, the disk is moved toward the posts. The 12v passes through the cable post to the disk and then to the other post and the motor. The disks moves slightly each time the starter is energized.
Eventually the post ends and disk become pitted from the high amp flow. The click is heard when badly pitted contacts make contact but don't pass electricity to the starter. What you hear is the electromagnet pulling the disk into contact. The starter eventually works when a less pitted area of the disk aligns with the posts.
If you're handy, you can disassemble the solenoid and file the posts and disk and get like new operation.

Second the motion here. Spot on!

[Bawlmer]

Before you start tearing into anything I would check every single connection on your starting system for corrosion and fastness. Check both high and low current connections. I had the same problem on my starter where the signal wire to the starter solenoid connection was corroded. I replaced the slip on connector and cleaned off the tab really well and reconnected it. That solved the problem. Best of luck!

[nhschneider]

I have a Beta 90 and had the exact same problem. I think I tried just about everything but the problem persisted. Finally, I started replacing the wires around the starter and solenoid, even though they appeared to be in good condition. That solved the problem.

Good luck, fair winds and calm seas.

[Siberian Sea]

I have a Beta engine although larger then yours. On your wire harness is a large plug located near the engine and this plug might like mine have approx 20 wires that feeds directly to your switch panel. One of these wires (I believe it’s brown color) is the feed wire through your started switch to the solenoid on the side of your starter. Look at this plug and check for corrosion that causes voltage drop to solenoid. It’s the solenoid or low voltage to solenoid

[NPCampbell]

Originally Posted by S/V Illusion

I don't know why but people often begin by picking an often expensive and sometimes needless option as the first thing to do.

Before you make any snap judgment about the solenoid or anything else, remove and clean every connection in the circuit to ensure this isn't a simple voltage drop problem. Then check the voltage getting to the relay.

Been there, done that. On the automotive side, I've fallen victim to oxidized cables under crimped on clamps on more than one occasion.

[Allied39]

Ok, you have lots of advice, some of it good.
Disregard the "replace its". Find the issue.
If you start replacing stuff without knowing what is the issue, it can get frustrating and costly.
Very simple to find the problem; Bypass your key, switch, button .,,,whatever, This is done by connecting the main (big fellow) to the positive on the solenoid. It can be done with a screwdriver but best to do it with a wire. If the starter kicks every time you do this, then the starter is ok, the solenoid is ok.....your problem is voltage loss...for whatever reason.
If it does not kick every time, then your issue IS the solenoid.....easy huh?

One possibility is simple voltage loss,sometimes it's a long run from key to starter, simple as that. easily remedied by installing a 30 amp relay at your starter.
You would however only come to that conclusion after making sure all connections are good, all grounds are good, no corrosion etc etc,

The above is easily done at little to no cost.

Have fun