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Old 14-12-2015, 04:11   #16
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Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Newfoundland, Canada
Boat: Camper Nicholson 31
Posts: 178
Re: Split coupling Prop drive shaft

This is the coupling from ASAP supplies , as mentioned it is milled and also has the extra crimping bolts over the cast from BuckAlgonquin. I would also venture to guess that the extra bolts are to compensate for the lack of a keyway.

I guess it is going to come down to being able to to get the keyway milled and associated cost, as apposed to going with one that is ready to go and cheaper, but not as good a product.
Another issue with the cast, what I have now, is the corrosion which is basically why I want to change it out. Would the milled steel coupling be any less corrosive?

Interesting Delancey that you have no key and experianced no issues, I see you also have the flex coupling installed.
As you are the only one so far that responded without a keyed coupling, I am still leary on just relying on the crimp bolts and set screw even if there are an extra set of them.
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Old 14-12-2015, 04:53   #17
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Location: Gone Cruising
Boat: 40' sailboat
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Re: Split coupling Prop drive shaft

Like I said, supplied by manufacturer. New engine, only have a couple hundred hours, so far so good. I have a dripless seal so have a couple extra set screws to stop the shaft from falling out the boat I hope.

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Old 04-01-2016, 19:20   #18
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Location: Fremantle, Western Australia
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Re: Split coupling Prop drive shaft

A couple of tips for stopping the shaft falling out of the boat in the event of coupling failure:
1. fasten a hose clip (jubilee clip) round the shaft just ahead of where it exits though the stern gland/shaft log into the boat. I was worried this might create vibration due to mass imbalance, but it doesn't seem to (after 15 years of use).
2. If your stern gear has a P-bracket (or A-bracket), fasten your shaft anode immediately ahead of the bracket (allowing room for possible movement of shaft as gears are changed). This only works whilst the anode is clamped tight, but you will hear a loose anode rattle, which is usually a warning that it needs replacing anyway.

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