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Old 14-01-2016, 20:00   #16
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Re: smoke from the engine

Do NOT run the engine until the repair has been completed!

Get the factory service manual.

Pre-soak with Aero Kroil and use an impact driver to free stubborn fasteners.

Clean and inspect everything. Check engine oil for water contamination. Repair or replace what's necessary. Torque fasteners to spec.
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Old 15-01-2016, 04:36   #17
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smoke from the engine

Thank you.
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Old 15-01-2016, 05:48   #18
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Re: smoke from the engine

It is as straight forward as it looks, the exhaust manifold is also probably the heat exchanger, so you'll be flushing and changing coolant as well, and I'd also clean the heat exchanger since you have the thing off, so have the necessary O rings ready and of course coolant (anti-freeze).
Depending on type of gasket, it's possible to get one that doesn't use a gasket sealant, but if the gasket accepts a sealant, I have been very partial to Copper Coat
http://www.amazon.com/CRC-401612-Cop.../dp/B000M8NZ8E

I prefer the spray, but only because it's easier to use, just shake the snot out of it before you apply it, is is a sticky liquid full of copper particles and it really does help make a head gasket etc seal.


Only gaskets I have seen that you don't use sealant on are blue in color and the blue is a form of Teflon, but these gaskets are rare.

Follow the service manual, especially when it comes to torque and torque sequence
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Old 15-01-2016, 14:11   #19
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Re: smoke from the engine

What would be the risks with running it as is for an hour? Are we talking about destroying the engine or CO in the cabin?
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Old 15-01-2016, 14:21   #20
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Re: smoke from the engine

Depends on where the leak is, if it's right at the exhaust like it sounds like, then you could be sucking water back against the hot exhaust valve and that could wreak havoc.
All exhaust and intake systems for that matter have some reverse flow, it's called reversion.
It could also believe it or not wear a slot into the head or the heat exchanger side which would mean you might have to buy those parts, the leak could also suddenly get much worse right at the worst moment.
None of this is guaranteed, just things that could happen, it's also likely that nothing bad would happen, but it's prudent to not push your luck in my opinion, and that is just an opinion of course

If your an hour or so away from a maintenance facility, dock or whatever and have SeaTow or Boat US, I think they will tow you there.


On edit, sorry I don't know your location, I assumed US, but of course that may be wrong
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Old 15-01-2016, 15:36   #21
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Re: smoke from the engine

Ok thanks. I won't chance it.
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Old 15-01-2016, 21:12   #22
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Re: smoke from the engine

I have the shop manual but it doesn't say what torque I should tighten each of the nuts to. Any ideas where else to look (besides Google)? I have the Bowman combined exhaust manifold/heat exchanger. Looks like two nuts each at the two connections to the head, then 4 nuts to the elbow. I think that's it.
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Old 15-01-2016, 21:26   #23
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Re: smoke from the engine

It will be in the factory shop manual.
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Old 16-01-2016, 06:25   #24
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Re: smoke from the engine

Ok I'll check it again. Is there any reason not to use PB Blaster to loosen the nuts securing the the manifold to the head or the elbow to the manifold?
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Old 16-01-2016, 08:34   #25
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Re: smoke from the engine

PB Blaster would be my first choice but don't expect that you are going to spray them and then just turn them out. You're almost guaranteed to to break one or all of those studs. If it was me I'd spray everything with PB and keep it wet for a couple of days beore attempting the teardown. When you do start taking it apart be gentle. If the nut doesn’t immediately move try tightening it very slightly. Sometimes whacking it with a BFH will help. Rather than risking the studs you can also use a nut breaker or even a dremel to split the nuts. They're easy to replace. Twisted off studs - not so much.

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Old 16-01-2016, 09:11   #26
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Re: smoke from the engine

Very good. Thank you.
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Old 22-01-2016, 20:32   #27
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Re: smoke from the engine

Still working on this project. When I reassemble all this, does the exhaust hose need some kind of compound where it goes onto the manifold or just hose clamps? It seemed like it was really stuck on there when I took it off.
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Old 22-01-2016, 20:55   #28
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Re: smoke from the engine

It should not require any sealant. Just double, non-pierced hose clamps.
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Old 23-01-2016, 12:17   #29
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Re: smoke from the engine

Pblaster rarely needs a couple of days. More like spray 2-3x a couple of hours apart and then spin 'em up.


I'd check the factory manual to see if any gasket sealant is recommended, and beware of no-name gasket replacements. Usually the exhaust manifold must be TORQUED down with a torque wrench, and sometimes re-torqued some hours later, to ensure that it puts even pressure on the new gasket. Again, that's in the factory manuals.


Personally, I like to use Never Seize on any parts that may bind up in the future, like an exhaust system part. Yes, the bottle is expensive, but it lasts forever and parts come apart very easily years later. And at the same time--check that factory manual again, they may tell you to use Loctite or antiseize on the manifold bolts. And they may say not to re-use the old bolts, sometimes they are made to stretch when first installed and torqued down, and simply won't ever re-install correctly.


Not rocket science, but often worth finding out what the manufacturer thinks is best.
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