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Old 16-09-2010, 19:40   #16
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Please share your experience.
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Old 16-09-2010, 19:45   #17
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Thanks for all of the useful input.
To clarify I don't intend to take the engine off of the boat, just pull it onto the cabin sole for ease of acess.
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Old 16-09-2010, 20:24   #18
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Originally Posted by Jollymon352 View Post
Thanks for all of the useful input.
To clarify I don't intend to take the engine off of the boat, just pull it onto the cabin sole for ease of acess.
doesn't your boat have panels that remove to access the transmission from the quarter berth?
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Old 16-09-2010, 21:55   #19
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Like he says! All you have to do is get the motor high enough to get the oil pan off, change the seal, install new gaskets and put it back in place.

But with the pan off I'd install a new oil pump while I'm at it just for GP, depending on the hours.

If the motor were really dirty then I'd pull it to get it all cleaned up and perdy again.
OH! Stop! The humility of it all..... if my engine space looked like yours I would pull the motor for leaky turbo cooling fitting...


Todd
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Old 16-09-2010, 22:55   #20
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If you did it on the hard, I'm thinking there'd be some crane stanby time. $ound$ expensive. Plus all the up and down ladder climbing when your in the yard.

Nothing appeals to me about doing it on the hard.

Hope you don't have to pull it out at all, but my vote would also be .. in the water.
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Old 16-09-2010, 23:36   #21
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Please share your experience.
Well, first you need a saddle for the motor to slide off onto. I rigged block an tackle to slide the motor fwd/aft.

Then like the others say you can rig a come-a-long to your boom. Just put supports to the decks as close as you can on each side of the lifting area. You can lift the motor high enough to pull the pan. That's if you can access the motor down thru the companionway.

Quote:
Originally Posted by IdoraKeeper
OH! Stop! The humility of it all..... if my engine space looked like yours I would pull the motor for leaky turbo cooling fitting...
Wait, I'm not finish yet! I still need to chrome the valve cover, oil pan, exhaust riser and gear cover.


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Old 17-09-2010, 05:27   #22
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why would you pull the oil pan to replace a rear main?


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pull the trans off, loosen the big nuts on top of the rear mounts. Slide a deflated basket ball under the oil pan and inflate it until the rear mounts are loose. Remove the bell housing and starter, replace the rear main.
Assembly is the reverse of removal.
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Old 17-09-2010, 12:17   #23
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why would you pull the oil pan to replace a rear main?


OP.
pull the trans off, loosen the big nuts on top of the rear mounts. Slide a deflated basket ball under the oil pan and inflate it until the rear mounts are loose. Remove the bell housing and starter, replace the rear main.
Assembly is the reverse of removal.
After doing the research it does appear that it is a one piece seal, unlike most internal combustion motors.

nevermonday, it would be nice if you were to give us a little more detail rather then using a one sentence vociferation. A part number or picture would be nice.

The picture below is of a 3JH4E but is probably very similar. In that case, yes, all you would have to do is remove the trany and bellhousing. Or at the most, lift the rear of the motor.


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Old 17-09-2010, 13:27   #24
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Originally Posted by never monday View Post
why would you pull the oil pan to replace a rear main?


OP.
pull the trans off, loosen the big nuts on top of the rear mounts. Slide a deflated basket ball under the oil pan and inflate it until the rear mounts are loose. Remove the bell housing and starter, replace the rear main.
Assembly is the reverse of removal.
I have one motor mount that is rusted at the rear of the engine (The other three are fine) this sounds like a good way to do it. I was thinking of getting a jack underneath to lift it but the basket ball sounds great.
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Old 17-09-2010, 18:33   #25
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Del,
I've never been one to post 3 page essays on projects :shrug:
hit the main points, get the job done! Refer to the shop manual for the details.

2 piece rear main seal are only the norm in US domestic production. I haven't seen a foreign made engine in the last 30 years without a 1 piece rear main.
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Old 17-09-2010, 19:00   #26
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Del,
I've never been one to post 3 page essays on projects :shrug:
hit the main points, get the job done! Refer to the shop manual for the details.

2 piece rear main seal are only the norm in US domestic production. I haven't seen a foreign made engine in the last 30 years without a 1 piece rear main.
Thanks! Lesson learned.
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Old 18-09-2010, 08:28   #27
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A lot of good suggestions - some more include using lumber 4x4's to make an "A-frame" which along with a cum-along will lift the engine off its mounts.
- - But first look carefully at your cabin interior - if you can cover the cabin sole with a tarp and then cheap plywood sheets - 3/8inch cut to fit - then you can remove the engine from its mounts and slide/move it into the main cabin and do the seal replacement there. This is supposing you do not have room in the engine area to lift and work on the engine.
- - Post #21 Delmarrey has some great photos of this, but I would add a plastic tarp over the cabin sole and then some plywood on top of that to protect against any gouges as the engine is moved from it normal position.
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