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Old 17-02-2008, 02:07   #1
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Shime for adjusting the height opf the engine on the beds.

We have the engine sitting on the new engine beds and I need to lift the bottom of the mounts up by about 18mm before making minor adustments for alignment to the shaft flange. I was thinking of using HDPE (high density polyethelene) for making the blocks as it is hard and does not compress, and is easy to work. The alternative is mild steel but I do not look forward to drilling that, the cutting is OK, just not hte drilling with a hand drill and a big bit.

Bad idea, good idea, why ?
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Old 17-02-2008, 02:26   #2
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Engine bearers and mounts...

When I put the new engine into Boracay the bearers were (of course) in the wrong place.

I had adapters welded up from 10 mm plate, then I drilled them to suit.

The forward mounts sat on the plates and the rear on the bearers.

A good 3/8" drill will go through mild steel with a sharp bit and some cutting fluid (centre punch and drill a pilot hole first).

I had the "luxury" of a $99 drill press for most of the work.

Trying to do the job without mains power might not be practical.
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Old 17-02-2008, 05:15   #3
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I would definitely go with steel. Poly would likely work but even dense it will compress over time ruining your alignment. Also due to the lower density it could interact with the rubber of the motor mounts and introduce a vibtration variable that you don't want. It would also likely deteriorate in the world of bilges.

Measure it up and have a local fabrication shop make them up.
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Old 17-02-2008, 05:51   #4
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Assuming a Adams 35 has mild steel engine beds, I would use mild steel or 316 SS. If hardwood engine beds, then use hardwood or 316 SS. I would buy a drill press (cheap if necessary) and find some mains power (or get genset) and use 316. Drilling hard metals is mainly technique - slow revs (very slow for large diameter), heavy pressure (high feed rate), sharp bit and correct cuting fluid. I use household detergent for mild steel, kerosine for 316.
Otherwise have it fabricated for you.
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Old 17-02-2008, 06:01   #5
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Pre-Cut & Custom S/S Engine Shims are available from Aloma Shim and Manufacturing:
Accurate Alignment Starts with Quality Shims - Aloma Shim And Manufacturing
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Old 17-02-2008, 06:32   #6
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Rust never sleeps .... and mild steel rusts.
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Old 17-02-2008, 07:09   #7
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Pre-Cut & Custom S/S Engine Shims are available from Aloma Shim and Manufacturing:
Accurate Alignment Starts with Quality Shims - Aloma Shim And Manufacturing
Having the right sh*t to do the job is 99% of the battle and those folks look like they have the right sh*t...

Laser cutting? Drool, drool, drool...
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Old 17-02-2008, 12:52   #8
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Looks like metal is the go.

Last week I was trying to drill 1/4" SS plate that was fastened to the top of a stern frame fitted to the boat, with a 1/2" bit, 8 holes, lots of lube, that was a tough job when things flex with pressure. Now, for the shims I will source the steel plate and try to get some holes inserted in it at the same time.

After 2 years of work with steel the idea of cutting and drilling plastic seemed like a nice prospect.

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Old 19-02-2008, 05:13   #9
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I wouldn't have a problem with Delrin or another HDPE. But it's a steel boat. I can't say how that would disrupt the galvanics.
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Old 19-02-2008, 22:00   #10
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If it were me and did not want to take the mild steel to a machine shop, I might stack galvanized fender washers as shims.
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Old 20-02-2008, 02:16   #11
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I put the shims in today, made them out of 10mm mild steel plate. Wow, aligning the engine to the prop shaft sure is a lot harder than I thought, especially when there is a isoflex flexible coupling in the drive train. I have not been able to get the .003" as yet, can get .005".
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Old 20-02-2008, 04:37   #12
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I put the shims in today, made them out of 10mm mild steel plate. Wow, aligning the engine to the prop shaft sure is a lot harder than I thought, especially when there is a isoflex flexible coupling in the drive train. I have not been able to get the .003" as yet, can get .005".
What dia is the coupler? the accepted tolerance is .001" per 1" of dia.
plus most flex couplers allow up to .010"
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Old 20-02-2008, 12:47   #13
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The shaft is 1&1/4" the flange is 4", I should mention that the problem is worse in the lateral adjustment, the vertical adjustment I can easily tweek with the lock nuts on the engine mounts. It is the twisting the engine sideways that is hard.
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Old 21-02-2008, 00:10   #14
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Some slots in the front mount base should allow for some adjustment. Snug the nuts up lightly then some gentle taps with a hammer should move it a small amount.
If that doesn't work then get out the sledge hammer

Mike
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Old 21-02-2008, 03:10   #15
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....just got back from a week away. You will do more damage in stressing about the alignment, with the tolerances you have. two thou.....? the idea is go for the best, which you have. The engine will move ship loads more than that. Even if the alignment is perfect you will find that when the pride and joy goes back in the water there is a reasonable chance that the hull will flex. (YES even with a steel boat) This will change the alignment. Be happy with what you have done because further time spent on this task is a waste. Throw it in the water, bash it around and then take another look............
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