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Old 14-01-2016, 18:25   #1
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Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: SF Bay Area
Boat: Hanse 505
Posts: 62
Sealing the "engine room"

Like most sail boats in my size, the engine is accessible by lifting the companion-way stairs. The one-sided tape that "seals" this area needs replacing. It is about 3/4 inch wide and quite thin, probably no more than 1/32 - 1/16 when compressed. I am thinking of using this product from McMaster-Carr:

Super-Resilient Extreme-Temperature Silicone Foam
Adhesive-Back Strips—Textured Finish

Temperature Range: -60° to 392° F
Firmness (25% Deflection): 1-6 psi (extra soft)
Absorbent (combination of open cell and closed cell)
Density: 12 lbs./cu. ft.
Foam, but not adhesive, meets UL 94V0, except 1/16" thick foam. Material has a criss-cross textured finish and has a skin on the top and bottom. Adhesive is acrylic and has a temperature range of –20° to 325° F. Width tolerance is ±1/16". Length tolerance is +18" for 15-ft. lengths and +36" for 30-ft. lengths.
3/4" Wide
Thick. Thick.
Tolerance Length Each
1/16" ±0.016" 30 ft. 93415K33 $60.81

What do you think? Other options? Other ideas?

Hanse 505
Festina Lente
Sausalito, CA USA

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Old 15-01-2016, 10:35   #2
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Re: Sealing the "engine room"

I am reluctant to reply since I am not an expert on this. But that hasn't stopped me before so.....

I would think you would have only a few reasons to want to "seal" the companion way hatch - prevent noise leakage, odor/fume leakage, vibration of the hatch against the frame. One consideration is how thick you can go with the seal and still be able to latch the hatch. Too thick and it may not be possible. You would want it thick enough and flexible enough to seal any randomness of the hatch to frame distance.

Your engine needs air to run so it must get air from somewhere else since it did not (originally) get it partially from the cabin. What I am saying is that you can't completely seal an engine room. I wouldn't think air from the cabin was deemed necessary so probably no worries on that but it is a consideration in general.

If the seal you are considering is the same thickness I would think it would work. You'd have to prep the frame or hatch where the adhesive would go after removing all of the old material so that the new would stick well over time. The temp range you list sounds good. You should not exceed 200F in the engine room.

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Old 15-01-2016, 10:49   #3
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Re: Sealing the "engine room"

From what you describe, if it compresses enough, it sounds fine. Certainly well withing it's temp limitations.
I bet most people just go to the home improvement store and buy what ever weather seal they think will work
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Old 15-01-2016, 10:51   #4
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Re: Sealing the "engine room"

I think if the temperature in your engine room exceeds 392F, you have bigger problems than the failure of that foam.
Bristol 31.1, SF Bay.
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Old 15-01-2016, 11:58   #5
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Re: Sealing the "engine room"

No question that the temp range is fine. I couldn't find anything that was both thin and had a temp range up to +/- 200 degrees. WRT make up air, that is supplied through another source, this seal simply keeps the cabin free of engine smell and the companion way from vibrating.
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