Running a Sail Drive While on the Hard

[DRS]

Is it possible to run a sail drive equipped engine while on land using the "ear muff" devices used to flush an outboard or stern drive? The water pick up is in the lower unit as it is in an outboard.

I need to do some engine checks while I am out of the water and just wondering the best way to do this.

Any thoughts???

Volvo MD 2030 if that makes a difference.

Thanks

[ggray]

I hadn't thought of doing that; might work. But I've had nervous moments with ear muffs on an outboard, waiting for the pee stream to start. Not sure I'd want to do that with my diesel.

What I did (with saildrive, but that doesn't matter) was to make a small tank with a float valve I got from a hardware store for about $8. I think it was made for a cattle water trough. And the tank was made from the bottom of a 5 (I guess) gallon "Spring water" bottle.

Anyway, i just stick the end of the raw water pump intake hose into the tank, and up to a fast idle on the 3GM30, the water flow keeps up with the raw water pump.

[Tellie]

I installed a tee on my raw water intake line just after the raw water strainer with a hose bib to connect a garden hose to when I'm on the hard. I find it much easier to get a good flow when I'm running the engines. Easy to hook up and no air in the lines. I just use a threaded cap to block it off when not in use.

[never monday]

Originally Posted by Tellie

I installed a tee on my raw water intake line just after the raw water strainer with a hose bib to connect a garden hose to when I'm on the hard. I find it much easier to get a good flow when I'm running the engines. Easy to hook up and no air in the lines. I just use a threaded cap to block it off when not in use.

or just remove the hose going into the raw water pump and attach a garden hose with a raw cut end.

[Cotemar]

DRS,

I am with Tellie on this one. I just pull the hose off right from the inlet valve and put a hose couple on with hose clamps.
The drive leg has holes you can cover with the "ear muff", but you would still have to plug a large hole on the bottom front of the sail drive.

Mark

[Rumba]

Yes this can be done. The yard I left my boat at in Montenegro had a fitting that went over both sides of the s/drive, they flushed the engine at idle for about 10 minutes. All seemed good.

[DRS]

Thanks All. I was thinking of plugging the hole at the bottom of the drive unit and thought if I could get fresh water at this level I would be "flushing" the entire system in the process.

[ggray]

Well it certainly would be easier hooking water under pressure directly than my rig,and obviously it works for you guys, but I thought it could cause problems putting pressure on the pump intake. Maybe too much flow?

[Rumba]

The impeller or (pump) would be affected by standard hose pressure. A worse case scenario would be if it got little or no water at all. You could run 2 hoses either side on average pressure, the impeller will suck up what it needs for the 10-15 mins you are doing this at engine idle. Don't stand under the exhaust outlet now!!

[DRS]

Decided it would be easier just to run the hose into the strainer. Kinked the garden hose so hose so I could control the flow and not fill the bilge.
Thanks for all the suggestions

[gramos]

Yes you can , I do mine regularly . every lift out to flush with freshwater .
Use the ear muffs , I clamp them on with a speedclamp to keep them tight . I dont plug the lower hole up but do press my thumb over it for short bursts .
Care has to be taken not to flood the engine by using the hose in the engine bay / feed as too much pressure can force water up the exhaust resulting in "hydraulicking " . safer to feed the water in where it was designed to go in . I speak from experience !
Also , before winter lay up I put a gallon of anti freeze in a bucket with water and hold it up to cover the leg intakes then run the engines until it has all been drawn through the cooling system . This coats all the waterways with a/f which has good anti rust properties .