Right oil for volno penta 2002

[arecuk]

hey guys,

I got CD28 with volvo penta 2002 18hp. My question is about the right oil. Currently I use SEA 40.

The engine suffers from not sufficient compression a bit but after 10sec cranks on. I was advised to use more dense oil which should provide better compression.

What do you suggest? SEA 50 or more? Im not mechanic and would like to give it a try.

Thanks, Tomas

[shakey doug]

Are you using the inbuilt cold start mechanism???

[arecuk]

well, I dont know whats cold start mechanism, could you explain a bit more? ... there is starter engine and thats it ... the boat as well the engine is 40 years old, so that might be an indication

[Dsanduril]

Cold start is initiated on the 200x series by pulling the stop lever all the way out (and then pushing it back in) just prior to starting. This throws a cog in the injection pump system that advances the timing slightly during startup.

But, at that age could also be low compression (same with mine), you have to crank for a while, or do it right and get a ring and valve job.

[DougR]

The use of heavier oil to increase cranking compression and gain faster starting is normally self defeating. The heavier oil slows cranking speed more than it seals leaky piston rings and the slower cranking defeats the build up of compression.

I suggest the use of good quality 15w/40 diesel oil such as Shell Rotella T. This will provide excellent lubrication across a broad temperature range and also allow the starter motor to spin the engine at its maximum cranking speed.


Also, as Shakey Doug mentioned, when the engine is cool you should employ the "cold start" function which is built into the engine. To engage the cold start function you place the throttle at 1/2 or perhaps slightly more and then pull the stop cable all the way out and then push the stop cable all the way back in. This sets the fuel rack in "cold start" position. Cold start position means the fuel pump injects slightly more fuel than even at full throttle, and the injection timing is slightly retarded so that injection occurs closer to TDC where the compression and internal heat is greatest. As soon as the engine starts and the RPM starts to climb, the governor pulls the fuel rack back out of "cold start" and you just throttle back to your normal operating speed.

Hopefully this will help with the sluggish starting.

DougR

[arecuk]

wow! thank you very much guys!

based on your description Im sure I have engine with buil-in cold start as now I remember that process of cranking was advised by previous owner, I just forgot it!

regarding oil - 14w/40 I use at the moment, so I will just change it and then try to crank engine with cold start proceedure ... will let you know how it goes

I also struggle with alternator, see separate thread here:
http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...up-141796.html

thanks a lot again! tomas

[arecuk]

one more thing, whats the difference between:
S - Start - Engine starter solenoid coil
C - Choke- Engine primer solenoid coil

on the key switch I have those positions:
- off
- position 1 - does anything in my case
- position 2 - sound alarm is on > is this called ignition? whats ignition actually?
- when I turn the key a bit more starter motor gets on but I have to hold it otherwise it goes back to position 2

whats the relation between S/C and position 1/2? if any

[Rustic Charm]

Originally Posted by Dsanduril

Cold start is initiated on the 200x series by pulling the stop lever all the way out (and then pushing it back in) just prior to starting. This throws a cog in the injection pump system that advances the timing slightly during startup.

But, at that age could also be low compression (same with mine), you have to crank for a while, or do it right and get a ring and valve job.

And at least on mine the cold start works exceptionally well. Every time.

[DougR]

I took a look at the photos of your alternator.....The original wiring hook up was as follows:

- Large stud on the + diode plate-- connect this to the heavy red wire going to the starter solenoid.

- Large stud on the minus diode plate--- connect this to the heavy ground wire going to the engine block.

- Small stud on the minus diode plate-- originally connected to the brown wire coming from the alarm module in the instrument panel and serves as the field energizing wire and also controls the charge light. Also called the "61" terminal.

- small stud on the + diode plate-- may or may not be used. Also called the "w" terminal. Early vintage 2002 engines drove the tachometer with a mag pickup sender located just above the oil fill opening in the timing cover. Theses early engines did not use the "w" terminal. Later vintage engines drove the tach from
the "w" terminal and a grey wire went from this terminal to the W terminal on the tach.

The voltage regulator which you show in the photo is not the standard factory regulator, so I can't comment on how to hook it up. The original regulator screwed on over the brush holder and the brushes are not visible. You can get a replacement regulator from Arco Marine in FL.

DougR

[deblen]

Originally Posted by arecuk

hey guys,

I got CD28 with volvo penta 2002 18hp. My question is about the right oil. Currently I use SEA 40.

The engine suffers from not sufficient compression a bit but after 10sec cranks on. I was advised to use more dense oil which should provide better compression.

What do you suggest? SEA 50 or more? Im not mechanic and would like to give it a try.

Thanks, Tomas

http://www.bluemoment.com/manuals/vo...002_worksh.pdf

Link to 2000 series owner shop manual.

Cold Start Proceedure :
(1) Shifter in Neutral
(2) Advance throttle to 3/4
(3) Pull the Stop control fully OUT & Push Stop control fully IN.
(4) Start engine.
(5) Reduce throttle to 1200 RPM,or less,as engine warms up
(6) Check exhaust outlet for cooling water flow

I have a 2003.

Cheers/ Len



Cheers/Len

[deblen]

http://www.bluemoment.com/manuals/vo...2002_owner.pdf

Sorry-previous post was for VP 2000 series Shop Manual

Above link to Owners Manual

[arecuk]

Ive got another trouble

I was installating alternator ... but I chose wrong post on the engine when tightening the belt and one screw on the engine body broke apart ... see attached screenshot

there is a lot of water coming out of the hole ... could you advise me how to fix it? the thing is that a part of the screw is still inside of the engine body

I believe the engine is fresh water cooled so that might the fresh water, right? or sea water? if fresh water I could dump it out and repair the place ... but what if it is sea water? seacocks are permanently open [plan to clean them but not now]

any ideas welcome ... I was planing first trip today as the alternator was the last thing to hook up ... and know this issue

thanks a lot, tomas

[a64pilot]

That looks like a temperature sender so should be fresh water side. If so you have what amounts to a pipe broken off inside of the engine. I'd try removing it with an "easy out".
Or caveman way might to be to drive a plain screwdriver into the pipe and try removing it that way.

[jkishel]

It's hard to tell from the photo, but it looks like you may have broken off an unused hot water heater outlet. This looks like the sea water cooled version of the Penta 2002. The fresh water cooled version has a coolant tank and a fresh water pump in addition to the seawater pump. Freshwater coolant should be a 50:50 mix of water and coolant and if so would be obviously red or green in color. Also, it would stop running after a little while as the coolant drained from the engine's cooling jacket. If this is seawater and if the broken fitting is below sea level, you really need to close the sea cock, or you'll have to make the repair while sea water is flowing in. First, I'd try to engage the broken nipple remnant with a big screwdriver or similar tool and turn it out. An EZ-out might be needed if the screwdriver doesn't work. Then you'll need to find a plug with the proper threads for the outlet.

[Pete7]

That looks like the anode bolt which has come out. The anode screws onto a bolt and the whole lot goes into a hole just under the alternator, but that isn't the original bolt.

Chances are that hole is below the level of the sea water on the outside and the engine looks like a sea water cooled version btw. So your in trouble.

I would start by sorting the sea cock out so that at least you can leave the boat afloat without worrying about that bung coming out. Next how much thread is left on that bolt?

Take a good look at the manual to see the shape of the original bolt. If I remember correctly the anode screws into the the thread end of that bolt. So does the bolt have a hole in the end?

Pete