Reviews on 2013 Yamaha 4 stroke high thrust?

[mr-canada]

Well i have given up on my old 8hp 2 stroke mariner and given all the problems ive had over the past 2 years with this motor (not a day of sailing in all summer this year, limited sailing last year) i am figuring im going to buy a brand new one from the factory so there are few surprises rather than used. I figure if i take care of it and maintain it in accordance to the factory maintenance schedule and buy the extended warranty nothing should go wrong and if it does, i can get the dealer to fix it on their dime.

Theres a lot of yamaha 9.9 high thrust long leg motors here at the yc, people swear by them, ive not heard anyone with them complain of issues.

The new 2013 model is 20% smaller and lighter than the 2012 model and the extra long shaft version (25") would be 5" deeper in the water than the 20" i have now which would reduce the periodic cavitation i experience here when the winds pick up to 30 kts in the vortex at the entrance to the channel.

Ive heard of clogged injector problems online but i think that problem is likely fixed as the 2012 and earlier models were the same block as the 15 hp with a smaller carb to reduce the power (ive read about swapping the carbs on those ones and getting an extra 5 horses for $40), so its possible those problems were related to either letting fuel sit in them for too long and/or due to the tiny carb they used to limit the power. The 2013 model i beleive is based on the same block as the 8hp version with bigger carbs to add power.

Its difficult to find reviews on these motors because they are so new. I wont have funds until the fall so i might score if the 2014 is released and im buying the 2013 stock, although i might spring for the 2014 if it has some advantages i like.

Does anyone have good or bad experiences with late model preferrably 2013 yamaha high thrust motors? My col26mk2 weighs about 5600lbs plus all the crap i fill it with water fuel to a total of about 7000 lbs. I tend to sail most of the time but ive been caught in dead air and motoring almost 12 hours to get home as the closest harbour to my slip is 18nm and where i like to go is more like 32nm.

I want a motor that is quiet, doesnt stink (like my dead 2 stroke), can handle long running times, charge my battery at a better rate (dead motor 0.70 amp, 2013 yammie ht 6 amp), fuel efficient, and most importantly of all easy to maintain and that wont break down on me for at least a few years (2 boating seasons interrupted by motor problems). I travel in areas that are at times very high winds (in extreme days as much as 50 kt gusts in the vortex coming in the channel) and currents are between 1.5 - 3.0 kts).

I dont care about remote control, electric start, power tilt, zingy features. Most important feature is that if i maintain it to exactly the manufacturers schedule, that the darn thing is going to work every time i want it to unless i do something stupid thats my own darn fault.

[colemj]

I have a friend with a Columbia 26MKII. A couple years ago he put in a Nissan 9.9 with a 4-blade 5" pitch prop and is very happy with it. He says that particular prop made a world of difference. I think it is sold as a "power prop" with a larger diameter exhaust through the hub.

I know this isn't what you asked about, but I was giving you a data point on your boat.

Mark

[mr-canada]

Yeah one of my cheif complaints about this 8 is that it can be hectic trying to get steerage coming out of the slip at low rpms. Its not a high thrust model just a long leg.

[ranger58sb]

Originally Posted by mr-canada

Ive heard of clogged injector problems online but i think that problem is likely fixed as the 2012 and earlier models were the same block as the 15 hp with a smaller carb to reduce the power (ive read about swapping the carbs on those ones and getting an extra 5 horses for $40), so its possible those problems were related to either letting fuel sit in them for too long and/or due to the tiny carb they used to limit the power. The 2013 model i beleive is based on the same block as the 8hp version with bigger carbs to add power.

It used to be that 9.9 and 15-hp 2-strokes were built on the same block... but more recently I'm finding that 15 and 20hp 4-strokes now use the same (as do 8s and 9.9s, now, as you're seeing).

Apparently.

And we don't get new 2-stroke "portables" down here anymore.

-Chris

[Ian R]

I have a 2008 model Yamaha HT it is based on the 8 hp 212cc. I installed this motor in 2009 and it has done over 800 hours ,no problems so far. It never gets a fresh water flush, I recently gave it a vinegar flush . I changed the prop from the original 9.25 inch to 7 inch pitch . This motor needs to do 500 rpm more than the 300+ cc model to develop the same hp.
I sprayed the motor with lanoline before it went near salt water so far no external corrosion.

[Cheechako]

The 8 hp and 9.9 from the late 2000's were great. (The ones with the huge high thrust props....12" diameter?)
Regarding steerage: may not have mch to do with your engine... and more to do with where the thrust goes.... rudders need the prop wash on them from ahead to be effective in slow maneuvering.... If your OB is alongside your rudder, you're going to have to live with it....

[thomm225]

Originally Posted by mr-canada

Yeah one of my cheif complaints about this 8 is that it can be hectic trying to get steerage coming out of the slip at low rpms. Its not a high thrust model just a long leg.

I'd say getting steerage isn't the fault of the engine. That has more to do with water flow over the rudder. (that's way we use the sails to steer with at low speeds in sailboat racing)

You can always steer with the outboard which is what I do coming out. My boat is like a tug with the outboard. It can turn on a dime.

My boat weighs 6600lbs alone plus it has a full keel, and I use a 5 hp Mercury 4 stroke with no problems so far. It has the 25" extra long shaft.

I've used it a couple times to "steam" back across the entire lower Chesapeake Bay (at 4-6 knots) when there was no or little wind.

Btw, these newer 4 strokes deliver a bit more HP to the prop than the older 2 strokes. Also, mine hasn't been flushed with fresh water either in a couple years. Plus, I just turn it off when I'm through with it.

It still starts with a few pulls..........

Also, a few weeks back I was caught in a couple squalls. I already had my sails down and was motoring the last few miles when the first one hit. I decided to stay out rather than enter the creek. I just used the outboard to steer into the storm. Max guts recorded was 38.1 knots. A couple times the boat was beam too, but in the lulls ,I was able to turn it back into the wind.............

[mr-canada]

The prop is behind the rudder rather than in front of it, which makes sense with your statement. I have had to steer with the motor and rudder many a time at low speeds. In reverse i seem to have better steerage and the prop is washing right over the rudder so your probably bang on. But i also think a higher thrust prop will pull more water over the rudder at lower speeds and rpms than this one which will help in forward. I might be weong but at least ill have a motor that works!

[Cheechako]

Originally Posted by mr-canada

The prop is behind the rudder rather than in front of it, which makes sense with your statement. I have had to steer with the motor and rudder many a time at low speeds. In reverse i seem to have better steerage and the prop is washing right over the rudder so your probably bang on. But i also think a higher thrust prop will pull more water over the rudder at lower speeds and rpms than this one which will help in forward. I might be weong but at least ill have a motor that works!

No doubt about it, getting more water flowing past the rudder with a large prob will help. I think they make that 8 hp (?) high thrust (12" prop?)with power tilt and electric start... now that would be cool... but expensive I suppose.

[mr-canada]

Yeah that is exactly what I'm contemplating buying. 9.9 high thrust Yamaha four stroke 25" leg. I don't think pull start is an option and you have to add on either a remote or a tiller handle

[Ian R]

quote

"The new 2013 model is 20% smaller and lighter than the 2012 model and the extra long shaft version (25") would be 5" deeper in the water than the 20" i have now which would reduce the periodic cavitation i experience here when the winds pick up to 30 kts in the vortex at the entrance to the channel."

The 2013 model is not a new model as far as I can see, it's the same as since 2008.

[Cheechako]

also, the long shaft version is 30" I believe.....

[neilpride]

My last 9.9 4 stroke yamaha end very bad, stolen in St Lucia, great engine , even i tow a grounded boat with this engine , quiet, with 20$ in gas you run the engine for a full week, 1 pull and always start, overall a nice engine, now the bad part, heavy weight, hard to put in deck for a couple, i use the main halyard , earlys 9,9 got a cronic corrosion isue in the oil pan, seems the salt water cooling circulation pass around the oil pan and internal parts get cooled by saltwater, so periodic fresh water washdown is a expensive parts saver, even there is a internal anode in the head, hard to reach without dismantle the head cams shafts, oil changes are messy, if the new models are fited with the plug in the lower part of the engine leg, dont use any sintetic oil in this engines if you want to avoid oil burn in the future, enjoy the yamy, is a great engine...

[Ian R]

Originally Posted by Cheechako

also, the long shaft version is 30" I believe.....

I have the extra long shaft which is 24.6".
A longer shaft would be better. Honda and Tohatsu make longer shafts.

[Ian R]

Originally Posted by neilpride

My last 9.9 4 stroke yamaha end very bad, stolen in St Lucia, great engine , even i tow a grounded boat with this engine , quiet, with 20$ in gas you run the engine for a full week, 1 pull and always start, overall a nice engine, now the bad part, heavy weight, hard to put in deck for a couple, i use the main halyard , earlys 9,9 got a cronic corrosion isue in the oil pan, seems the salt water cooling circulation pass around the oil pan and internal parts get cooled by saltwater, so periodic fresh water washdown is a expensive parts saver, even there is a internal anode in the head, hard to reach without dismantle the head cams shafts, oil changes are messy, if the new models are fited with the plug in the lower part of the engine leg, dont use any sintetic oil in this engines if you want to avoid oil burn in the future, enjoy the yamy, is a great engine...

The head anode in the later model is reasonably easy to change.