Repowering C&C38

[phorvati]

I'm looking to put a diesel.
Yanmar 3GM, perhaps a westerbeake or perkins.

I had an A4 with 2:1 reduction gear and although I loved how durable it was and how easy it was to replace parts on the go, and I would like to be able to motor at hull speed. 7kts+. I'm also sick of carrying jery cans.

So I'm looking to see whats the easiest fit into engine compartment of a C&C 38 MkII 1976.
Also is 1" shaft gonna suffice? and a 16/9 3 blade fixed prop?
Petar

[Pato]

The beta was build to replace the a4 and is the same footprint. Beta uses a Kubota engine which have a good reputation and you can get cheaper parts from a tractor or farm equipment store way way cheaper than marine. Betas are also easy to work on and is laid out nicely with all the goodis on the front of the motor which is great unless you need to run a V-drive in which case it's assbackwards

[casual]

I have a 78 C&C 36 20 yrs ago I insyalled a Universal M4 30 Fits perfect same shaft and has never failed in 20 years

[delmarrey]

Originally Posted by Pato

The beta was build to replace the a4 and is the same footprint. Beta uses a Kubota engine which have a good reputation and you can get cheaper parts from a tractor or farm equipment store way way cheaper than marine. Betas are also easy to work on and is laid out nicely with all the goodis on the front of the motor which is great unless you need to run a V-drive in which case it's assbackwards

+1
Looked at a beta at the last boat show and really liked them. The paint on them are real good too, unlike the Yanmars, which looks like a spray can job. Everything seemed to be accessible.

[casual]

Cheeper Parts GOOD DEAL I'll pass that on to who evere buys the boat.I just aggreed to a different boat has a Yanmar hope as good as the universal you are right parts ain't cheep,cross reference with NAPA USA auto parts supplier about 50% less,Good Luck too you

[phorvati]

That Universal M4 30 is probably a kubota block as well. Betamarine ephasizes it, universal was trying to hide it.
I looked at universal 5432 which is 32HP but its a tough fit.
Betas look very nice with the new shiny pain, but seriously how long is that paint gona be nice and shiny? Maybe a season or so the way I intend to use it. I got some quotes for beta and its too expensive new.
Im going with a used one. I was my own A4 mechanic, and I'll try to be my own diesel mechanic keeping in mind that diesels are a lot less forgiving, made with much higher precision, and require a lot more care.

[casual]

In the 20 yrs the M 4 has been in the boat ,I will tell you the paint still shines,no oil leaks and the bottom of the pan is not rusted,I do maintain it myself 3 months or 50 hours on the oil and filter.When I hear today's prices for these engins I get heart trouble.

[Charlie]

Originally Posted by phorvati

That Universal M4 30 is probably a kubota block as well. Betamarine ephasizes it, universal was trying to hide it.
I looked at universal 5432 which is 32HP but its a tough fit.
Betas look very nice with the new shiny pain, but seriously how long is that paint gona be nice and shiny? Maybe a season or so the way I intend to use it. I got some quotes for beta and its too expensive new.
Im going with a used one. I was my own A4 mechanic, and I'll try to be my own diesel mechanic keeping in mind that diesels are a lot less forgiving, made with much higher precision, and require a lot more care.

I have a yanmar and the paint is needing attention now after four years. As far as being diesels being harder to maintain I would have to disagree with that. When we had an Anemic 4 we were constantly working on it. With a diesel give it clean fuel and she works most of the time. No tune up, no points, once it is started needs no electricity.

[roverhi]

Believe Perkins/Westerbeke used Mitsubishi engines, among others, to Marinize. Might want to be very sure what the original engine manufacturer was.

Unless Yanmar made modifications to the aft mount point in later engines, the Yanmar 3GM may not be a drop in replacement for the A4 with the stock Yanmar motor mounts. On my boat, the Yanmar did not fit and the PO elected to make liberal use of a Sawzall in doing a really crappy installation. To use the stock Yanmar motor mounts, they moved the engine about 10' forward to get the width needed for the aft mounts. Even doing that, the engine still couldn't be aligned and eats cutlass bearings. The 3GM has been a great engine but the PO's butchered installation is the next thing on my redo list.

[phorvati]

so how is the paint supposed to last after you winterize the engine. Every time you follow the bleeding procedure for instance, you are gona crack the paint on some of the fuel line fittings.
Change impeller on water pump">RAW water pump, it will crack the paint on the impeller housing.
You go to adjust the alternator belt, it will crack the paint on the arm and both bolts...

[delmarrey]

Originally Posted by phorvati

so how is the paint supposed to last after you winterize the engine. Every time you follow the bleeding procedure for instance, you are gona crack the paint on some of the fuel line fittings.

The residual diesel fuel will keep away any rust.

Change impeller on RAW water pump, it will crack the paint on the impeller housing.

The pumps are bronze w/SS covers.

You go to adjust the alternator belt, it will crack the paint on the arm and both bolts...

And a little spay of WD-40 can manage anything else that gets exposed.

Actually, some manufacture winterizing procedures suggest that one spays down the entire motor with WD-40 in the fall to prevent moisture/rust.

[Charlie]

I spent an hour with a can of WD 40 and a rag cleaning and putting WD40 on the engine. The engine looks a lot better for it. The problem I have is that after the winter you need to remove the WD40, as best you can, otherwise it attracts dirt and grime.

[delmarrey]

Charlie,

My procedure is to put down some absorbent pads and spray down the motor with a can of brake cleaner. Then do some touch up on the affected areas. It does a good job of cleaning the motor of dust build up too.

You do want a respirator for fumes and ventilation for a few minutes after removing the pads.

[Mahaila]

My '78 C&C38 had the alternate engine since new - a Yanmar 3QM30M. It's a good fit and I have no complaints about it.

Ron