Replacing the Engine and Need PropHhints

[w1651]

I have a MD2B Volvo engine that is locked up. I have taken off the heads and have only a few bolts left to remove the engine. I was going to do it last night but I ran into this.

A look at the prop shaft | Flickr - Photo Sharing!

What I want to know is if I release the bolts at the flange will water start to flow into the boat.
How do I pull the motor with this type of prop shaft set up? Should I disconnect the water tube and plug it first? The tube runs to the bilge into another device I don't know what it is.

Any help will be appreciated.

[atoll]

there should be a coupling between the end of the propshaft and the gearbox that you can undo,
in your picture the bronze assembly is your stuffing box and stops the wet stuff coming in,so you will want to leave that if you are in the water!

ps a blow torch and a bit of engine oil is great for siezed bolts.

in my picture this is how it should look after the engine comes out with coupling and prop shaft remaining in place.

[neilpride]

Asuming the boat is in the water, the tube looks like water lubrication for the stufing box, and to be honest , if you are going to replace the engine ,,, the stufing box and shaft looks terrible to.

If the idea is just to pull the engine up, plug the hose in the stufing box , install a hose clamp or a anode in the shaft some inches apart from the stufing box, this keep the shaft in place in case he want to slide out of the boat, remove the bolts and nuts securing the coupling to the transmision , pull apart and you are free to pull the engine up.

[w1651]

the problem is the other end of the shaft about 1ft away goes into the trans.
I was hoping I could pull the trans with the engine as one unit.
And yes the boat is in the water.

[atoll]

you can,have a good look there should be a coupling at the end of the shaft

[atoll]

exploded diagram here,showing coupling assy

Volvo Penta Exploded view / schematic CONNECTING COMPONENTS FRICTION CLUTCH MD1B, MD2B, MD3B - MarinePartsEurope.com

[w1651]

Thanks Atoll I'll go that route then. I'll get it loose and out today then.

[atoll]

Originally Posted by w1651

Thanks Atoll I'll go that route then. I'll get it loose and out today then.

if you do have to use heat to undo the bolts be careful not to damage the rubber lipseal on the back end of the transmission,best to keep a wet towel handy as a sheild.

ps what's yr ex's phone number....lol

[roverhi]

It might make pulling the engine easier if you disassemble it before pulling it. You can remove the cylinders and take the engine down to just the crankcase. Saves muscling a lot of weight around. Of course you'll have to free up the pistons to slip the cylinders off. Put Kroil or other penetrating in the cylinders and let it set for several days. Then take a 2x4 or other piece of wood and pound on that to get the pistons to move.

[atoll]

Originally Posted by roverhi

It might make pulling the engine easier if you disassemble it before pulling it. You can remove the cylinders and take the engine down to just the crankcase. Saves muscling a lot of weight around. Of course you'll have to free up the pistons to slip the cylinders off. Put Kroil or other penetrating in the cylinders and let it set for several days. Then take a 2x4 or other piece of wood and pound on that to get the pistons to move.

agree with that,you can also take off the side panels on the md2b and undo the pistons from the crank if they are siezed in the bores.

[w1651]

Originally Posted by atoll

agree with that,you can also take off the side panels on the md2b and undo the pistons from the crank if they are siezed in the bores.

I tried that but the bolts are to rusty and stripped the heads. I did take the heads off the engine and removed the extra weight earlier.
I saw a MD3 engine for sale and wondered if that would fit in the space for the MD2B instead. About ten horses more and that would really push her along.

[roverhi]

Engine must have been underwater for a considerable period of time.

The 3B is one cylinder longer than a 2B. You have to have the fore and aft length to fit the 3B. That would not only be physical length of the engine but the longer distance between motor mounts to the engine beds. FWIW, The Westsail 32 would fit in the 3B in the same place as a 2B. Factory engine bed/pan was built to accomodate engines from the Perkins 4-107 on down to the MD2b. The 3B was a much better engine for the W32 if you liked power.

I really liked the simplicity and design of the MD series of engines. They were built for boats and could be easily handcranked. Something we did for 10 years with the 2B.

[w1651]

Originally Posted by roverhi

Engine must have been underwater for a considerable period of time.

The 3B is one cylinder longer than a 2B. You have to have the fore and aft length to fit the 3B. That would not only be physical length of the engine but the longer distance between motor mounts to the engine beds. FWIW, The Westsail 32 would fit in the 3B in the same place as a 2B. Factory engine bed/pan was built to accomodate engines from the Perkins 4-107 on down to the MD2b. The 3B was a much better engine for the W32 if you liked power.

I really liked the simplicity and design of the MD series of engines. They were built for boats and could be easily handcranked. Something we did for 10 years with the 2B.

I think the engine would fit but I would have to do some adjusting and fabrication to get it in there. The main problem I see is the shaft for the prop bolting up to it. The length would have to be adjusted and that means a new shaft and coupler.
Still for what they want it might be the way to go for the old girl. Went looking for the water intake line and scoop. Now I know why the engine is locked up. I the PO ran the engine hot Very Hot! There is a space where the old thru hull was and a plug on the side of the trans where the intake used to be.
One more thing to fix when on the hard next year.

[w1651]

A look at the prop shaft | Flickr - Photo Sharing!

Well what I worried about has happened. I pulled the bolts at the back of the trans and turned the shaft to get to them. once I turned the shaft it started to drip about 3 to 4 gallons a day. I am going to clamp the tube at the top of the coupler and see what happens.
I gotta get this boat on the hard this May or April.

[Celestialsailor]

Hard to tell from the picture but that shaft and stuffing box looks like it needs some attention or even replacing. You might have to bite the bullet and haul the boat replacing it all. If the shaft is badly corroded, you could haul, saw the shaft and yank the unit whole. I know...I know...I'm the bad guy!