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Old 08-06-2011, 14:00   #1
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Removing sound shield adhesive

Years ago, maybe 8, I replaced the transmission on my Yanmar. Since the engine was out, I took the oportunity clean up the engine compartment and add some sound insulation. I used some commercially available stuff, mylar covered foam with a heavy inner layer. It has its own adhesive layer to facilitate installation. You cut it to size, seal the edges with silver mylar tape, peel off the backing and stick it up.

What a mistake! A year or two ago the stuff (all of it, on every surface) has started to delaminate. Something is failing inside the insulation, probably where the internal foam is stuck to the adhesive. This is causing the insulation to fall off. The problem is that the adhesive is still stuck to the engine compartment surfaces. So where ever the insulation has been removed a layer of stuck-on mess remains.

Has anyone had this? How do I get the adhesive off?

John
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Old 08-06-2011, 14:11   #2
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Re: Removing sound shield adhesive

Don't know if it would work for your kind of adhesive, but I've had pretty good luck using WD-40 for removing sticky, gooey stuff like duct tape adhesive. Give it a try--can't hurt!
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Old 08-06-2011, 15:39   #3
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Re: Removing sound shield adhesive

I had some of the same stuff in my genset compartment. Peeled the insulation off and used a scraper to remove most of the adhesive. Last bits came off with solvent. Easier than expected.
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Old 08-06-2011, 17:38   #4
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Sort of on topic. What insulation would be the better stuff to use both engine and general boat insulation? I was going to use this stuff but after this thread....,
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Old 08-06-2011, 17:58   #5
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Re: Removing sound shield adhesive

Well the original insulation (this is a 1982 Hans Christian 33) is still in place over most of the engine compartment. It is some kind of acoustical tile, maybe 1/2" thick. It probably isn't doing much sound reduction, but it's still in pretty good condition compared to the 'fancy stuff'. I wish I could find some more of it here in Mexico.

And if you're wondering, yes I put the new stuff over the original stuff, so using WD-40 and a scraper may not be the answer as the acoustical tile doesn't have a hard surface. I'm worried that it will absorb the WD-40 and just scrape away with the scraper. I'll try a test area and post back. If I could find more acoustical tile I'd just remove the original stuff and put more down.

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Old 08-06-2011, 18:19   #6
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Re: Removing sound shield adhesive

Use acetone or lacquer thinners and a scraper.
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Old 09-06-2011, 05:25   #7
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Re: Removing sound shield adhesive

I think that most sound insulation needs to be supported with screws and fender washers, about every 12", in addition to the insulation. I've just done my engine space with a product made by Soundown (Salem MA). The insulation is applied with speayed adhesive applied to both the insulation and the bulkhead, and with the screws/washers. They have very thin fender washers for this purpose.

I scraped most of the old adhesive off, and asked them (soundown) about the old stuff that was still there. The recommended using a wire brush to get the old foam off, and not to worry about the old adhesive. The solvent in the new adhesive would soften it up, and it would not effect the installation of the new stuff.

Doug
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Old 09-06-2011, 06:34   #8
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Re: Removing sound shield adhesive

Perhaps you should re-foam the area? I used a foam/rubber/Mylar 1" thick foam in my engine room ceiling, and after 14 years, it started falling down.

The failure was not the 3-M spray adhesive I'd used, it was deterioration of the foam's surface next to the adhesive. (My foam "sound insulation" was still in good shape, except the foam to glue interface). I removed the sections of foam, coarse brushed the glue on the ceiling to get foam crumbs off, and did the same to the insulation's bad "glued" side. With crumbs removed, and the foam down to a new glue surface, I re-applied the spray adhesive, (3 coats) and stuck it back up there. It worked great, and yes, I may have to do it again in 10 years.

Since your foam has delaminated, you would have to replace it with new insulation, but it might be the solution. IF you want the sound and heat insulation!

I'd experiment first to see if the spray 3-M "headliner adhesive" forms a good bond with the left over adhesive film that is still in there. (Glue something small up there to test.)

If you get a bond, and use the NON "peel N stick" version of foam this time, relying on spray adhesive instead, It should work.

Good luck,

Mark
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