Removing raw water deposits

[Pigpen Pete]

I need to remove accumulated deposits from the tubing of an old raw water-cooled engine. Any suggestions for rinsing the engine tubing to remove deposits?
Perhaps heat exchangers have a similar problem of a buildup of deposits.
Suggestions gratefully received.

[Wotname]

Vinegar is good, not super fast (hours). Hydrochloric acid (muriatic acid in the USA) is very good and fast (minutes) but does require more care.

Hard to damage anything else with vinegar!

[JPA Cate]

We used to use a mild mix of swimming pool acid and water. You'll hear the salt deposits fizzing away. Remove the zincs first. Then, when fizzing stops, flush it thoroughly with fresh water. If you want to be sure it's adequately neutralized, use a little baking soda in the water. If it fizzes or bubbles, there was acid left. Replace the zincs. Good till next time.

Wotname, maybe you have an idea how long the vinegar would have to sit? Like leave it in over the week you're away from the boat? The way we used to do it, involved circulating it for a while (varies with how extensive the salt deposits are), but the job was done in a morning.

However, vinegar won't hurt anything, but might deteriorate the zincs, I'm sorry, I don't know.

Ann

[thinwater]

In fact, vinegar is one of the most damaging scale removal chemical, in terms of removal/metal damage. Oxalic acid is worse.


I'd use Rydlyme or one of several products from Trac Ecological.



https://www.practical-sailor.com/iss...s_12249-1.html

[Pigpen Pete]

Thanks for those suggestions. There's a total of 8 zincs through the system, and maybe other complications so I'll think on it.
regards
Pete

[Wotname]

Originally Posted by Pigpen Pete

Thanks for those suggestions. There's a total of 8 zincs through the system, and maybe other complications so I'll think on it.
regards
Pete

IMO, they should be removed before any treatment is started.

[Wotname]

Originally Posted by JPA Cate

We used to use a mild mix of swimming pool acid and water. You'll hear the salt deposits fizzing away. Remove the zincs first. Then, when fizzing stops, flush it thoroughly with fresh water. If you want to be sure it's adequately neutralized, use a little baking soda in the water. If it fizzes or bubbles, there was acid left. Replace the zincs. Good till next time.

Wotname, maybe you have an idea how long the vinegar would have to sit? Like leave it in over the week you're away from the boat? The way we used to do it, involved circulating it for a while (varies with how extensive the salt deposits are), but the job was done in a morning.

However, vinegar won't hurt anything, but might deteriorate the zincs, I'm sorry, I don't know.

Ann

No idea Ann, I have always just circulated vinegar for 12 to 24 hours though the engine. The only time I used hydrochloric acid (30%), I did it for 30 or 40 minutes IIRC.

[Wotname]

Originally Posted by thinwater

In fact, vinegar is one of the most damaging scale removal chemical, in terms of removal/metal damage. Oxalic acid is worse.


I'd use Rydlyme or one of several products from Trac Ecological.



https://www.practical-sailor.com/iss...s_12249-1.html

Really, I would have thought vinegar was pretty mild compared to say hydrochloric acid. I can't access the link in your post; unless I paid .

[boatsrus]

Originally Posted by Pigpen Pete

I need to remove accumulated deposits from the tubing of an old raw water-cooled engine. Any suggestions for rinsing the engine tubing to remove deposits?
Perhaps heat exchangers have a similar problem of a buildup of deposits.
Suggestions gratefully received.

It becomes a challenge if the tubes are blocked completely. Pumping Rydlime through the engine will clear the build up if there is still room for water to flow. I resorted to drilling out the salt where i could get access. It took days of work though and I missed one crucial bit which I only discovered when I reassembled the engine.

[Bean Counter]

I used Barnacle Buster on in situ heat exchanger on a generator, worked well.

[SV THIRD DAY]

Originally Posted by Bean Counter

I used Barnacle Buster on in situ heat exchanger on a generator, worked well.

I'd like the second the Barnacle Buster recommendation the stuff's almost a miracle liquid it does such a good job

[Wotname]

Originally Posted by Pigpen Pete

I need to remove accumulated deposits from the tubing of an old raw water-cooled engine. Any suggestions for rinsing the engine tubing to remove deposits?
Perhaps heat exchangers have a similar problem of a buildup of deposits.
Suggestions gratefully received.

Just exactly what material are the tubes in question? I had based my previous reply thinking you wanted to clean the engine as well which I had assumed would be cast iron (block and head) but perhaps you are only cleaning the tubing (???).

While not part of your question, I'm curious to know what arrangement/engine has eight zincs?

[Parrothedd]

Barnacle Buster. Not muriatic acid.

[aliddell]

+1 for barnacle buster.

[waterman46]

Muriatic acid is recommended mainly for cleaning boat sanitary systems, and is what you use to clean the Lectra-San / Electro-San, type units.

I use retail products for hard water scale removal, like "CLR" to get rid of salt scale everywhere on the boat - you can buy CLR in gallon containers. Needs to be used full strength. It definitely will not attach metals since its designed for use on bathroom fixtures. Needs to be circulated. Not sure if it's strong enough for your application however it won't hurt the engine for sure.