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Old 07-06-2009, 06:15   #16
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Here's a diagram showing all the exhaust components that GordMay posted a while back. It shows the syphon break and the various clearances vs. water level.
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Old 08-06-2009, 08:03   #17
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pics of the problem

Heres a few pics of my exhaust and a diagram with measurements...

Ok well things are getting a little clearer on the problem, I gotta sit down tonite and add up the numbers but it looks like aside from no vent there are other issues as well.

On the good side, I have found a good low "mileage "(5000) head from a wrecked turbo car in a shop in vermont, it's in route now for $460, with a new set of stretch headbolts, $75. and the new gasket is here from CA $150. Turns out that the Vetus Co. was really the only hard ones to deal with for parts..they just said not available,.. this IS a HD popular diesel everywhere but here.

I guess all things considered, $700 on a major repair for a 42' home to be is not that bad if all goes well,..still ouch.

I will get this system set right but will be looking for other options as far as separating the exhaust from the raw water,.. i don't like the whole idea.

the P/O told me yesterday that years ago, sitting at a dock, he had the older engine, before this one, get salt water in the engine when large seas from the stern filled the pipe.. the motor was pumped and flushed but it was a problem then sitting as well as when running.
BAD DESIGN!

Thanks for all the input, so far,.. this group rocks...kev

OK the pics wont go, says invalid post, I'll try on a another reply..K
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Old 08-06-2009, 08:12   #18
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pics of the problem 2

here we go again
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Old 09-06-2009, 13:14   #19
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Side exhaust to shorten the run???

I had a diesel mechanic friend come by today and have a look.

he sugested that I might be better off to shorten th exhaust run by exiting out the side of the boat with a proper riser so not to get flooded when healing, maybe a scoop facing aft.
he said its unusual but so is this boat and it might help out the problem of pumping so much water up a 13' pipe and out.

I could half the plumbing length if I did this.

I had not even considered this and the only bummer might be catching exhaust fumes when motoring since the outlet would be ahead of the pilot house.

He also suggested downsizing the exhaust to the minimum diameter suitable for this engine, that way the exhasut is actually pumping the water out with abit of pressure.
My pipe size is 2 & 3/8" (60mm) ID, smaller hose is less expensive, easier to manipulate and may help out... he also believes the volume on the aft side of the muffler is probably too much and there may well be a siphon problem since there is no vent,... HMMM a bad design it seems.
Kev
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Old 10-06-2009, 14:32   #20
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The problem you have definitly needs what is called a riser. It is attached to the exhaust manifold. It "rises" up to well above the waterline then loops back down. The cooling water is injected into the downward section.
It can be made out of threaded black or galvanized pipe. An elbow is welded onto a steel plate that is shaped to bolt onto the exhaust manifold. A pipe nipple of appropriate length screws into this, then two elbows at the top and another nipple going back down. The cooling water injector, a piece of 1/2" or so stainless pipe, is welded into a hole in the downward section. All of this pipe has to be wrapped with at least a 1/2" layer of heat wrap (that white cloth like material).
Due to corrosion the downward section where the saltwater is injected needs replacing every 5 years or so in the tropics.
It may not look pretty but it keeps any or all water from flowing back through the exhaust.
If your raw water pump leaks a little it is impossible for any water to run into the cylinders. If your raw water pumps leaks replace the vanes immediately. If it still leaks check the cover plate. If there is a ridge in it the body of the pump is worn out. Get a new one or one day soon you will have overheating problems.
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Old 11-06-2009, 14:39   #21
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Yes on the riser

Yes on the riser: many engine makers make a riser for this type of application. Or you can put one on at the exit. (Beta marine shown)
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Old 11-06-2009, 14:42   #22
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system layout

here's a diagram of the exit riser....
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Old 12-06-2009, 18:59   #23
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Where are you? If somewhere hot, there is a distinct possibility that if the boat is not run often, the water in the exhaust system gets evaporated by the heat of the day and the vapors enter the engine through the exhaust valves.
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Old 14-06-2009, 08:45   #24
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Here are some more pictures from Vetus.
I own a muffler but did not use it, save on some joints.
The goose neck does a good job of bringing the exaust to the maximum possible high. If you need more pics of risers, I can supply.
By the way do not connect town pressure to engine, the pressure is to high and you can blow some gaskets.
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