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Old 01-01-2008, 08:00   #1
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Raw Water Cooling System

Does anyone have experience with either Rydlyme or Trac Ecological for cleaning the scale and gunk from their cooling systems? They look pretty good but I sure don't want to do any harm to my engine!
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Old 01-01-2008, 08:09   #2
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Does anyone have experience with either Rydlyme or Trac Ecological for cleaning the scale and gunk from their cooling systems? They look pretty good but I sure don't want to do any harm to my engine!
I'm first assuming you have a closed cooling system. If so then the only part affected by scale and build up. Would be the heat exchanger tube bundle. Depending on what engine you have it's probably easier and cleaner to pull the tube stack and take it to a radiator shop to be boiled out.
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Old 01-01-2008, 11:20   #3
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Pulling the tube stack (heat exchanger) would work but I am hoping to avoid that. This product is also in contact with the hoses and exhaust elbow. Seems easier if it's safe.
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Old 01-01-2008, 11:26   #4
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Pulling the tube stack (heat exchanger) would work but I am hoping to avoid that. This product is also in contact with the hoses and exhaust elbow. Seems easier if it's safe.
The exhaust elbow is a sacrificial piece. If I can't get the build up out with a hammer and chisel. I don't think chemicals will do it. Hoses should also be replaced regularly as maintainance items.
And running a caustic substance thru a running engine and then discharging it overboard is polluting. I can't in good faith endorse an act that is against almost all states laws.
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Old 01-01-2008, 13:10   #5
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I agree with Never Monday (Pat).

One of the maintenance requirements on heat exchangers is to pull the tubes and clean them. And in that process they can be inspected for erosion. As well, you may find other unseen problems that may exist.

Adding chemicals to a cooling system that may keep you safe (unlike a car), while in desperate need of a motor (see thread http://www.cruisersforum.com/forums/...mas-11902.html ), would be advancing the chances of failure. Once a cooling system has been contaminated with salt it normally continues to erode. Then it would have to be chemically treated which may cost you hoses and water pumps.

Operating boats are much like space vehicles. Once you are away from the land your life can depend on your ability to return safely.

A leaking exchanger core will not stop your motor BUT if unnoticed will eventually cause unforeseen problems that will cost you more money in the long run. A lot of boat owners treat boats like a car, and they are NOT! They are high maintenance and require proper procedures to keep them running safely.

I would suggest doing the proper maintenance as in the instruction manual. You'll gain more experience and knowledge in the process. Or have a professional do it if you don't feel confident......................_/)
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Old 01-01-2008, 14:23   #6
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Yeah it's really no big shake. Just pull the exchanger and the elbow. Probably 6 hours worth of work total, counting pulling them, getting the new ones, and re-installing. You'll feel a lot better after the fact.

Then go clean your diesel tank to make yourself feel *really* good :-)
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Old 01-01-2008, 16:28   #7
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Thanks for the advice. Seems the easy way is not the best way as usual.
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Old 01-01-2008, 23:03   #8
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Pulling the end caps on your heat exchanger for a visual inspection and running a rod through each tube is a good idea. Something always seems to be in there in one place or another when I do mine.

There are stainless steel exhaust risers available that are not sacrificial. I have had mine for 12 years.
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Old 06-01-2008, 00:15   #9
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Thanks for the advice. Seems the easy way is not the best way as usual.
That is absolutely correct.
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Old 06-01-2008, 07:43   #10
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I have used the Trac Ecological product with great success, and you can set it up so you don't have to run it overboard, with a recirculating system.

I used this product primarily because removing my heat exchanger is a real PITA. My engine was running very hot (190-200), after using the Barnacle Buster product from Trac the engine ran much cooler (140-160).

I rigged my own recirculating pump and bucket much like the one on their website, but with a old bilge pump. The alternative is to run it through the same way you would run your antifreeze when you winterize, and a bucket at the exhaust will catch the liquid.

Sometimes the easy way is a good way
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Old 06-01-2008, 09:43   #11
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I have used the Trac Ecological product with great success, and you can set it up so you don't have to run it overboard, with a recirculating system.

I used this product primarily because removing my heat exchanger is a real PITA. My engine was running very hot (190-200), after using the Barnacle Buster product from Trac the engine ran much cooler (140-160).

I rigged my own recirculating pump and bucket much like the one on their website, but with a old bilge pump. The alternative is to run it through the same way you would run your antifreeze when you winterize, and a bucket at the exhaust will catch the liquid.

Sometimes the easy way is a good way
190-200 is ideal for a fresh water cooled diesel. Raw water cooled shouldn't go over 140.

Using the recirculating system be careful not to overheat the exhaust hose.
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Old 07-01-2008, 16:54   #12
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this might sound dumb and a little off topic but when you have a fresh water cooled diesel isnt that water cooled by raw water? in the heat exchanger?
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Old 16-01-2008, 12:22   #13
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this might sound dumb and a little off topic but when you have a fresh water cooled diesel isnt that water cooled by raw water? in the heat exchanger?
Yes! But the fresh water is usually the only water temp being monitored. Large vessels may monitor their raw water temps but mostly due to the cost of a failure.

Now, flow gauges are a good idea in raw water passages.
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Old 16-01-2008, 12:31   #14
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Now, flow gauges are a good idea in raw water passages.
It is possible to wire up a raw water temp alarm.
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Old 16-01-2008, 13:49   #15
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The heat exchanger isn't the only part of the raw water system that needs cleaning!

Here in Mexico and the tropics, you get critters inside the entire raw water loop. Particularly if you have a water cooled fridge and/or AC.

We use vinegar and dissolve the critters.

We've had mussels and barnacles growing inside our sea strainer (they get through the filter when they're planktonic), raw water manifold, inside the hoses and pretty much anywhere the raw water flows.

They're a big pain in the rear!

Cheers,
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