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Old 28-11-2007, 16:30   #1
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Question Racor Filtration

I have 34' sailboat with a Volvo 29hp MD2030 engine. The difficulty of changing the primary filter along with bleeding the system has me looking into replacing it with a Racor 500 series or possibly a spin-on 460. Along with this I was going to add a vacuum gauge and water sensor. Also to polish fuel and assist in the bleeding the plan is to put a Walbro fuel pump on a parallel line. This all seems good in theory but matching up the existing fuel lines with the new equipment has me concerned. Racor spin on has 3/8" NPT, Racor 500 is 1/4"-16 UNF, Walbro is 1/4"-18 NPSF in 7psi or 10psi and the size fuel line I have now I only think is 3/8". Will all the necessary fittings be easily available? Any suggestions on which Racor or Walbro? Will this work? Anything I'm missing?

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Old 28-11-2007, 16:35   #2
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just a thought, I have fitted a squeeze bulb (of any outboard tank) into the fuel line prior to the 1st filter, it is great for bleeding as it also has a non return valve. Wondered how I managed before fitting it. No electricity just a squeeze or 10.
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Old 28-11-2007, 16:47   #3
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I've got twin racors with a gauge; they work like a champ. Ditto on the bulb for pumping the fuel. The first time you change the racor filter and don't have any spare diesel fuel to fill the filter bowl, you're going to laugh pretty hard as you operate that tiny little bleed pump on the engine for 30 minutes.

The racors I have are 2 500's, with a valve to switch between them. I've had to use the valve once before underway, and I was pretty happy that I had. But if you keep your fuel tank clean (the way I'm trying to now), the duel setup seems overkill.
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Old 28-11-2007, 16:51   #4
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Racor Filtration

Thanks. The bulb sounds like a good inexpensive way to bleed the air but I think I'll try to work a fuel pump in also for a polishing system. Wish I had room for the dual filters.

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Old 28-11-2007, 16:56   #5
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ok.
If this is an ocean boat there is no excuse in my opinion for any Racor smaller than the 500. This includes all the spin-on's that are rated for the flow, but are a PIA to change.
Get the 500.
I detest squezez bulbs. I've yet to run across one that didn't leak.
The engine supply fuel pump is plenty strong enough to prime the system after all it runs the system at full load
It does however take some getting used to AND a system that is sealed. A system with even minor air leaks won't bleed down.
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Old 28-11-2007, 21:10   #6
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Ditto about the dual Racors. If you can find any space at all for them then do it. I have had to switch over a few times because of fouling caused by bacteria that feeds on diesel. What a hassle free way of changing to a fresh filter. No bleeding and it can be done in a few seconds. I have a vacuum sensor and a water sensor on them as well.

About the tubing and hose adapters, any good hardware store stocks them.
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Old 28-11-2007, 22:08   #7
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Keeping on trucking...

I installed a Racor 500FG.

I got all the parts (adapters, tubing, valve etc.) from my friendly local truck spare parts shop.
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Old 28-11-2007, 23:38   #8
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I have a Racor 200 filter and an Automotive one with a pump built in that came with the boat and am using 2 micron filter on the Racor and whatever is the micron size that comes with the auto one, I dont have a lift pump on the engine (Kubota 22hp) but rely on a Facet 12v one fitted close to the remote filters I find by filling the tank when I return to base I havn't suffered from any diesel fouling
(bugs etc.) I havn't had any leakage problems with the bulb, I would assume you have had one that leaks then it wasn't installed correctly. I carry a spare bulb and spare Facit pump. I inspect my tank every few months and suck out any water and accumulated dirt. Touch wood I havn't had any problems so far.
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Old 29-11-2007, 05:46   #9
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Noticing the high regard in which the Racor 500 diesel filter is held, I have been considering an upgrade to it from my current CAV 269 diesel filter.

However, the Racor is substantially larger (takes up about twice the space), so I wondered whether anyone can level good criticism at the CAV, to give me some excuse to move away from the compact CAV.

(The CAV 269 is a combined water separator and coarse filter, with a glass bowl and drain screw. The same body was also made by Lucas and is now made by Delphi).

So, has anyone had negative experiences with the CAV, or found reason to move from a CAV to the Racor, in the context of a two or three cylinder diesel (under 40HP)?

Martin
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Old 29-11-2007, 05:50   #10
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Martin,
Any filtration before the engine is great.
The 500 is held in high regard because of it's design and cost for replacement elements.
The design of the 500 allows changing of the filter without rebleeding of the system if done carefully. The replacement elements are about $10.00 and have no metal parts so they wont rust while waiting in the spares box.
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Old 29-11-2007, 06:44   #11
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Pat:
I don’t recall where I got the following, but wonder if you’d care to comment on the author’s opinions, regarding Filtre Element size:

< quote >
The 2 micron filters are a secondary filter, made to be an engine filter on engines that don't have one of there own. If you use a 2 micron as a primary filter (the first one the fuel goes to from the tank) you won't get any of the centrifugal action the housing was designed to do for spinning out things that are heavier than fuel, such as water. The last letter in the 2 micron filter part number is "S" for secondary.

The 10 micron filter is a transitional filter, made to be used in extreme duty locations as an intermediate filter between the primary and secondary. Again, not much happening in the centrifugal action. The last letter in the 10 micron filter part number is "T".

The 30 micron filter is what was designed to be a primary filter, does the job best as the first filter the fuel goes through.
< end quote >
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Old 29-11-2007, 07:00   #12
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Gord,
I agree with the author.
Most of the engine mounted filters on mechanical diesel engines are 5-7 mcn. Particulate small than that size will pass thru and be exhausted.
2 mcn filters upstream also have a tendency to clog sooner and reduce fuel flow. This can cause a reduction in power and a lean condition. The lean condition is the more severe problem. This causes higher combustion cylinder temperatures and to the extreme can melt pistons.
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Old 29-11-2007, 07:06   #13
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Gord!
I am so impressed! There is a rarely seen data sheet that Racor puts out to their dealers that has that info on it.

Wonder if it can be found on the Racor web site?
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Old 29-11-2007, 07:10   #14
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All Racor diesel filters are color coded also.
Brown = 2mcn
Blue = 10 mcn
Red = 30 mcn.
This will either be molded into the end caps on an older cartridge element. and the printing on newer ones. On the metal can elements the color is the color of the printing on a tan background.
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Old 29-11-2007, 11:15   #15
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FWIW, I just replaced the element on my 500. For anyone that bought the 500 more than a couple years ago, you need a rubber donut adapter so the element seals properly. Recor sends them out for free and I got mine in 2 days. You could fabricate a spacer with stiff fuel hose but I'd be worried about getting a good seal.

When you buy a new 500, I was told by Racor that it comes with the 2micron element. I replaced mine with a 30 but it seems strange that they ship the new unit with an element not designed for its primary/common purpose?
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