Quick Raw Water Pump Sea Water Seal Replacement

[Rustic Charm]

Originally Posted by Jim Cate

There are also repair items called "Speed-sleeve" or such like for fixing scored shafts. These are very thin s/s shells that slip over the shaft in wayof the scored area. Commonly used in industrial applications, and they will extend the life of the very expensive water pump shafts nearly indefinitely (via successive applications). Should be available from any bearing supply house.

Jim

I used to use 'speed sleeves' a lot in my day when I was working in industry, I don't recall ever having to replace a shaft after fitting one. but would they hold up to sea water?

[Jim Cate]

Originally Posted by Rustic Charm

I used to use 'speed sleeves' a lot in my day when I was working in industry, I don't recall ever having to replace a shaft after fitting one. but would they hold up to sea water?

Why not? They are s/s, just like the shaft. ACtually, I don't know exactly what alloy they are made from, but those folks who have used them on sea water pumps haven't bitched in my presence!

And considering the price of pumps or new shafts, one could renew the speed sleeve a few times and be money ahead.

Jim

[Rustic Charm]

Originally Posted by Jim Cate

Why not? They are s/s, just like the shaft. ACtually, I don't know exactly what alloy they are made from, but those folks who have used them on sea water pumps haven't bitched in my presence!

And considering the price of pumps or new shafts, one could renew the speed sleeve a few times and be money ahead.

Jim

Yes, they do come in stainless but I thought only in 304, and they are so thin I wouldn't have thought they would stand up to continuous salt water. But if they do, well great.

[belizesailor]

Even if they didn't hold up long term they would still be a good field repair until you could get to parts & services. Certainly something worthwhile to have on hand for offshore & remote locations. A leaky raw water pump is not such a big deal, but a leaky main seal could be a whole different animal. Should hold up fine on a oil seal repair. An assortment of sizes for your boat on long offshore runs could be a good thing...esp on power vessels.


http://www.skf.com/us/products/vehic...its/index.html

[rwidman]

Originally Posted by colemj

I think the shaft is a Volvo-specific thing if yours is also the taper one with gear, so most likely a whole new pump will be about the same price as a shaft..

As I recall, the repair kit was about one third the price of a new pump. I forgot to mention in my previous post that not only was the shaft scored, the cover was scored where the impeller rubs. I don't believe the cover is included in the kit so that's an extra $40 or so.

For me the peace of mind of a new pump and twenty minutes of time was worth it.

[a64pilot]

Originally Posted by Rustic Charm

I used to use 'speed sleeves' a lot in my day when I was working in industry, I don't recall ever having to replace a shaft after fitting one. but would they hold up to sea water?

I've used them too, and never had to replace one either, I've thought that was due to they are very much harder than the shaft so they essentially don't wear. To me it's an upgrade more than a repair.
I've used them on Back Hoe hydraulic pumps etc. Never thought about this application.

Like the O-ring replacing the spring on a Garloc seal, I certainly understand why and think it's a great idea, just never thought of it myself, but I will certainly remove the little spring and replace it with an O-ring next time.

[northiceman]

Checked my Jabsco 3270-200 sea water pump impeller after 1980 hours (19 years ) and found it needed replacing. Wonder why - right ?
Anyway - it was quite an adventure ! First time and I learned a lot. DON'T remove a pump to replace the engine side seal unless there is a leak! I tried to remove the water seal without removing the pump (first) but could not so off came the pump (and by the way remove the pump on a Perkins 4-107/108 by removing the smaller circle of nuts NOT the outer one) - at least I got that right-thanks for the Perkins shop manual. After trying to remove things with the pump removed I managed to put the screwdriver tip thru the side of the bearing-ouch! $40 + $50 for seals later I am reassembling the whole pump complete with new seals, slinger and bearing (no O-ring needed for the 3270-200 - only for the 1003 model).
My question is - what to use for the "non hardening bedding compound" that Perkins says to use behind the cam in the impeller housing ?

Thanks
Ron

[ballvalve]

The seal comes out easily using a couple of levers through the weep hole with the pump in place, once out I used a nail polishing board, (if you dont know what I mean ask the wife) to remove some of the old seal marks off the shaft, then pushed in a double lipped seal which meant the wear mark from the old seal is in a different place. Completely fixed for less than £10.

[belizesailor]

If you have trouble using the weep hole trick then you can pull seals on most pumps from the front using picks after removing the impeller. This is destructive to the seal...whereas pushing it out from behind is not. In most cases this does not matter though since it will be replaced anyway.

[MARC D]

Belizesailor,

Stuff that makes CF a great forum, thanks for posting!!

[guyfromiowa]

These things happen to me all the time. Here's a Trade Secret - lip seals have been identified by the metric dimensions and profile as industry standard for years.

How to measure oil seals - Bearing King

The standard format is; inside diameter, then outside diameter, then thickness. So a seal that fits in a 24mm bore, shaft diameter 12mm and thickness of 7 mm is a 12 24 7 seal.

This article also shows you how to identify Imperial Measurement seals, not just metric.

While we are at it, O-rings can be confusing sometimes, too. There are two standards for o-rings, Standard and Metric. The 'dash number' calls out the dimensions of the O-ring. Many times you will find an assortment of O-rings with the 'dash number' but no sizing. Here you go. Print these charts and keep them in your service manual file.

http://www.allsealsinc.com/ParcoO-RingSizeChart.pdf

[belizesailor]

Originally Posted by MARC D

Belizesailor,

Stuff that makes CF a great forum, thanks for posting!!

Happy to contribute.

[belizesailor]

Originally Posted by olaf hart

How do you size the O ring?
Is it just a standard rubber ring from an auto parts shop?
I have a similar type of Volvo pump.

Just noticed I misread your question in my reply...

Since this was a field repair I just guesstimated and used the closest fit I had available. You can easily put them on, see if its a good fit (snug, but not distorting the seal lips) and swap out if not.

Ashore, remove the spring from a new seal and use it to size the o-ring. I just bought a new batch of seals and properly sized o-rings.

[Enyar]

Originally Posted by northiceman

Checked my Jabsco 3270-200 sea water pump impeller after 1980 hours (19 years ) and found it needed replacing. Wonder why - right ?
Anyway - it was quite an adventure ! First time and I learned a lot. DON'T remove a pump to replace the engine side seal unless there is a leak! I tried to remove the water seal without removing the pump (first) but could not so off came the pump (and by the way remove the pump on a Perkins 4-107/108 by removing the smaller circle of nuts NOT the outer one) - at least I got that right-thanks for the Perkins shop manual. After trying to remove things with the pump removed I managed to put the screwdriver tip thru the side of the bearing-ouch! $40 + $50 for seals later I am reassembling the whole pump complete with new seals, slinger and bearing (no O-ring needed for the 3270-200 - only for the 1003 model).
My question is - what to use for the "non hardening bedding compound" that Perkins says to use behind the cam in the impeller housing ?

Thanks
Ron

Can you explain how to get the lip seals and shaft out?

[gruffa]

Thanks for the great tips on doing the lip seal replacement. I just got mine done today.
I have a Johnson F4B-9
Got the lip seal, plus spares, at a local shop specialising in seals and industrial hose fittings.
Got the o-rings too and all for just $15 !

I found that getting the old seal out with the wire through the weep hole, my wire was just a bit soft ( 1mm gal wire), but then I doubled it, bending it and then using the bent end to push the lip seal and it was just the right stiffness.
Then pushed the plastic spacer and an o-ring that was impeller side of that, out as well.
Cleaned the spacer, new o-ring 11mm X 2.4mm, and new lip seal 12-24-7 with the O-ring rather than the spring.
I used a wide nylon washer 32mm dia and the long socket to tap the lip seal in to place, flush with the housing.
All back together and no leaking. So far so good.

Photo shows nylon washer, broken spring from old seal, o-ring and bent wire tool