Properly Check Engine Oil Level

[rwidman]

Originally Posted by a64pilot

On the Marine engines it's common to suck the oil from the dip stick tube to change it, this of course means it has to go to the bottom of the sump.
Many do like me and use a smaller tube to slide down inside of the dip stick tube, but some use the dip stick tube itself.

My Volvo owner's manual says to suck the oil out through the dipstick tube. Obviously, it goes into the oil pan, but of course, it cannot go all the way to the bottom, it has to stop short of the bottom so you can measure the oil level and so you can suck the oil out.

What this means is, and I posted it above, it is not possible to get all the oil out through the dipstick tube so refilling it with the rated amount of oil will result in overfilling the engine.

[a64pilot]

Ron,
It really can go almost all the way to the bottom, you really can get very close to all the oil out. I've sucked the oil out through a tube on mine, then removed the plug to verify that and got essentially no oil out when I removed the plug. (Yanmar, I don't know about Volvo)
Surely people don't just dump in the rated amount of oil, then check? I've always added up to about a half qt low, then checked, it's real easy to add a little oil but not so easy to remove just a little, I thought that common, just like remove the stick, wipe it and re-insert to get a reading is?

[zboss]

Our Westerbeke is fitted with a drain hose at the bottom of the pan. This is not as useful as it sounds because we cannot get a good sized drain pan under the engine. Instead we stick the suck-out tube into the low part of the drain tube. Seems to work ok but we seem to miss about 1/2 a quart anyhow.

[psneeld]

Originally Posted by zboss

Our Westerbeke is fitted with a drain hose at the bottom of the pan. This is not as useful as it sounds because we cannot get a good sized drain pan under the engine. Instead we stick the suck-out tube into the low part of the drain tube. Seems to work ok but we seem to miss about 1/2 a quart anyhow.

Adapt with a fitting and use a pump to suck it out of the drain tube?

[zboss]

Originally Posted by psneeld

Adapt with a fitting and use a pump to suck it out of the drain tube?

I think most of it is just up in the engine and filter so we get at least another pint from simply changing out the filter. I know we don't have sludge in the pan because we just changed out all our oil gaskets and the pan was cleaned. Interestingly, there wasn't really any sludge in it at all to begin with, although there were some metal shavings that the mechanic could not identify as being bearing material or anything. Who knows how long they have been in there. Engine runs like a top when its running

I WOULD like to get a remote filter and electric change pump at some point.

FYI to the OP... our engine specs have an allowable angle to the engine. I assume that the hash marks on our dip stick take into account the max allowable angle because there are no special instructions otherwise; so just as long as you keep it at or near the top hash mark, I don't think its an issue (at least for my engine).

[psneeld]

Unless the pan is at a funny angle or designed to not favor the drain...you cant go wrong buy using the drain...even if with a hand pump.

It certainly is faster if a decent sized hose rather than a tiny tube you stick down the dipstick....especially if thicker viscosity or less than full operating temp.

[Rantum Scoot]

I think the Yamar issue is exacerbated by the length of the sealing surface on the dip stick, roughly an inch or so, comprised of 3 individual seals (ridges of rubber) in series which compresses sufficient air in the tube to depress the oil level whilst providing an effective seal that won't allow air into the tube to equalize the pressure. And as a64Pilot explains the tube goes to the bottom of the sump so air can only get into the tube through the top of the dip stick tube. My plan is to get a second dip stick and remove the rubber sealing - one that I use only for checking the oil level. I guess being a former aircraft engineer I need that level of reassurance and I get a little anal (can I use that word here?) when it comes to the engine

[rwidman]

Originally Posted by a64pilot

............. Surely people don't just dump in the rated amount of oil, then check? I've always added up to about a half qt low, then checked, it's real easy to add a little oil but not so easy to remove just a little, I thought that common, just like remove the stick, wipe it and re-insert to get a reading is?

It is often suggested, even a couple of times on this thread.

If I were to put what Volvo says the engine will hold into my engine, it would be overfilled by two quarts or so. I just pour (from a 2.5 gallon jug, check, and add until it's where it's supposed to be. Then I start the engine, run it for a few minutes, shut it down and then top it off a few hours later or the next morning.

[secrabtree]

I'm a little dense, but I've been reading this thread (and have made a few comments). In this thread there are numerous posts explaning the Yanmar dipstick and why it can't be used for an accurate oil level reading. If it is true that they can't give an accurate oil level reading then what is the purpose of having a dipstick? And if the dipstick can be modified to give correct oil level readings by eliminating the seals, seals that other engine manufactures don't deem necessary, why does Yanmar put those seals in the dipstick tube?
Just interested, but not interested enough to contact the Yanmar engineering department. I have a Perkins engine, but if I had a Yanmar I sure would ask those questions of Yanmar.

[rwidman]

Originally Posted by secrabtree

............. Never try to add oil before it gets close to the Add Oil line because only one quart (the amount in the plastic bottles sold) will result in overfilling. .

I add what I need and just screw the cap back on the quart container and save the rest until I need it.

[Cadence]

Originally Posted by essej4269

Total newbie here.

Simple question for you all. I have an E37 with a Perkins 4.108 engine. My dumb question is how to I proper check the oil.

the manual really is a bit ambiguous in its description or they assume a higher intellect than mine. I checked oil cold and it reads on the bottom fill line. I checked while running after ilding for two minutes and I was spot on full. What do I believe if any. Could someone spend a few minutes and give me some idiot proof instructions. I never owned a boat or diesel engine until a few weeks ago when we boat her. Thank you.

I hope you didn't mean while running?

[zboss]

Originally Posted by secrabtree

I'm a little dense, but I've been reading this thread (and have made a few comments). In this thread there are numerous posts explaning the Yanmar dipstick and why it can't be used for an accurate oil level reading. If it is true that they can't give an accurate oil level reading then what is the purpose of having a dipstick? And if the dipstick can be modified to give correct oil level readings by eliminating the seals, seals that other engine manufactures don't deem necessary, why does Yanmar put those seals in the dipstick tube?
Just interested, but not interested enough to contact the Yanmar engineering department. I have a Perkins engine, but if I had a Yanmar I sure would ask those questions of Yanmar.

I don't think that is the case... It has been suggested that you remove the dipstick, wipe it clean and then reinsert it rather than just pulling it out and reading it. I am betting that the 1 square inch of air in the dip tube can't be compressed enough to change the reading significantly.

[jkindredpdx]

I run the engine for a few minutes. kill it. Open a beer. when the beer bottle is empty check the oil level.

[transmitterdan]

It is true that Yanmar dipsticks seal really well at the top. The first reading will usually indicate low level. The second reading will usually be correct.

The reason for the first reading low is that as the air in the tube heats up the air expands and pushes the oil level down a bit. Pulling the dipstick releases the pressure. The second reading will be accurate since there is an insignificant amount of air compression due to reinserting the dipstick. There is no problem for Yanmar engineering to fix.

[Rustic Charm]

Originally Posted by a64pilot

On the Marine engines it's common to suck the oil from the dip stick tube to change it, this of course means it has to go to the bottom of the sump.
Many do like me and use a smaller tube to slide down inside of the dip stick tube, but some use the dip stick tube itself.

Being a life long mechanic I thought it odd that I would get different readings with different techniques when checking the oil, but it wasn't too hard to figure it out and it's not hard to live with, a minor annoyance at most

Thanks. Oil change on my Volvo 2000 series is done by the tube, yes. But not using the 'tube'. The tube finishes in the block. You are meant to use a thinner tube to put into it and that tube goes to the bottom of the sump.