Predatory Volvo Parts Pricing

[belizesailor]

Originally Posted by belizesailor

The starter is built by Mitsubishi and is readily available from many reputable auto parts dealers for many times more than 80% less.

...

Doh, I was thinking in terms of percentage spread between prices not as % of Volvo list price...so yes you can acquire the same model of Mitsubishi starter for 80% less (20%) of Volvo retail price. Be there. Done that.

Mitsubishi is a major manufacturer. To effectively compete in the global market, as they do, they must maintain a reasonably consistent QA process across their product lines and plants. I think that is a reasonable and rational working assumption.

If proven wrong by experience, then I have a Volvo green original as a spare....which in reality may also come from Kung Pow Electric Motor Company. If so, then Kung Pow makes a pretty good product...this one ran for 14 years without a glitch.

[Island Time O25]

Originally Posted by rwidman

You are taking my post out of context.

I don't think I was. Just pointing out one example out of many that I know of. Wish I was making a list of such examples which I came across in the 10 years of boat ownership. The years when a US company had a great US made product and Japanese or Chinese (Taiwanese) would come out with a cheap knock off at a steep discount are long gone. Instead we have, in 98% of situations, foreign made products with the only difference a stiff mark up in price for an establshed "market leader". And the real difference would be in customer service where a seller with 600% mark up can afford to give out a few "free" replacements even years after the warranty expired. But from economic and cost-benefit point of view I can replace my $70 "knock off" alternator every year and still come out ahead of someone who is using $650 Motorolla "original".

[belizesailor]

Finished installing new starter this AM. Strong smooth cranks. If its a Kung Pow then there are certainly no easily discerable qualitative differences. Finish, fit, and performance all as good as original.

14 years is a long time to wait to prove it will stand the same test of time....maybe rwidman can present proof of his premise in a more timely manner.

[Captain Bill]

Originally Posted by Captain Bill

I have 3jh3ce engines and the hitachi part number is S114-815 and that seems to be used on most Yanmar engines of that vintage. Yours may be different so be sure to check. I found the Hitachi part number when I removed the starter. The original Hitachi part number was still on the starter. Of course it was on the bottom and not visible until the starter was removed. I actually bought an aftermarket equivalent for $120 from a local auto electric shop that I trust. There were cheap Chinese equivalents for way less than $100. I could have gotten the actual Hitachi brand starter for $160 which included the solenoid. Just the solenoid from Yanmar was $168. Once the engine is out of warranty I don't see any reason to spend money for OEM bolt on parts.

The one place I haven't felt gouged by Yanmar is on water pump impellers. I have been able to buy Yanmar brand impellers for less than $30 within a dollar or two of aftermarket impellers. The Yanmar impellers have a screw thread in the hub that fits their puller tool which is very compact and doesn't require you remove the starter to pull the impeller. The aftermarket impellers don't have this thread.

Just to be fair, I must confess that my great deal american made look-alike for my Hitachi starter gave up the ghost after starting the engine approximately 15 times. From what I can determine the solenoid is what failed. The motor spins when 12V is applied directly. The problem seems to be the solenoid will not stay engaged but clicks and disengages. Voltages are good and I even bypassed all of the wiring and put 12 V directly on the switching post directly from the battery with the same results I get from the ignition switch. This starter is poorly designed for the marine environment as the solenoid also engages the starter gear as well as making electrical contact. This means you cannot jump the solenoid to get the engine started, it just spins the motor.

[belizesailor]

Originally Posted by Captain Bill

.... This starter is poorly designed for the marine environment as the solenoid also engages the starter gear as well as making electrical contact. This means you cannot jump the solenoid to get the engine started, it just spins the motor.

Most starters/solenoids these days, marine or automotive, are of the "pre-engaged" type (like you just described). My original "Volvo" one is too. Was your old starter not?

Seems like the autoparts shop might owe at least a partial refund.

In a pinch you could remove the bad solenoid, use the lever normally used by the solenoid to engage the starter gear, then apply juice to the power lead to the starter.

[Scout 30]

I think that with the starter & alternator rebuilding makes the most sense & it's not very expensive.

[belizesailor]

Originally Posted by Scout 30

I think that with the starter & alternator rebuilding makes the most sense & it's not very expensive.

Yup, $20 to test and replace the solenoid on my original Volvo starter...which is now my spare.

[belizesailor]

After experiencing what a PITA it is to get at the upper mounting bolt on an MD2020 starter (...and I assume similar on other MD series motors), I stocked up on long extensions. The tool for this job is an 18" 1/4 drive extension with a hex socket (less likely to slip/deform corners of bolt...which could lead to a nightmarish extraction problem). The space between the heat exchanger hose and the block is so narrow that even a 3/8 drive extension is too thick to fit easily.

Tested the 1/4 drive extension today and it worked great.

[rwidman]

Originally Posted by Scout 30

I think that with the starter & alternator rebuilding makes the most sense & it's not very expensive.

Yes it does if you know a reliable and well recommended shop. The problem is, this doesn't allow you to carry spares and you never know where you'll be when the starter or alternator fails.

[capt jgw]

We can argue about the morality of thier pricing all day long and it won't make any difference. The purpose of these forums is education. Once we learn, here and on other forums, that we can get the same or equal parts from other sources at lower cost, we will get them there instead. Volvo, Westerbeke, or whoever, can only charge the prices they do because they have no trouble finding suckers to pay them. The more people we educate here, the harder that will be, and the prices will come down. That is free market enterprise, charge what the market will bear. Our job here is just to inform everyone of thier options.

[SV Sailfish]

capt jgw,

Do you have a good source for volvo parts?

I'd love to have the info as I have a D2-40.

Thanks!

[capt jgw]

Originally Posted by SV Sailfish

capt jgw,

Do you have a good source for volvo parts?

I'd love to have the info as I have a D2-40.

Thanks!

Mines a Universal, I've never owned a Volvo, so, no. Sorry. They're out there, you just need the non marine part numbers which is the hard part.

Years ago you could walk into a parts place with a thing a majig in your hand and the counter man knew what it was and where it was on the shelf. It ain't that way no more.

[EllesBelles]

Great thread. Thank you.
Does anyone know how to find an exhaust elbow for a Kohler Generator Kohler P/N GM58514 + gasket GM58602 for less than the $1,575 USD price it's selling for? Kohler is Perkins under the hood.
Thanks!

[Lepke]

Almost all marine engines have farm or industrial models. Engine rebuilding companies have part sources not available directly to the average user, but they will resell the parts. Engine kits (pistons, rings, sleeves and bearings) from non-oem makers can be 1/2 or 1/3 of the oem price. Oil field suppliers or tractor suppliers are good places to start looking for parts. Ebay usually has starters & alternators.

[EllesBelles]

Originally Posted by SV Sailfish

capt jgw,

Do you have a good source for volvo parts?

I'd love to have the info as I have a D2-40.

Thanks!

Just saw this Capt JGW, here is what I have been able to find:

Volvo D2-40 is a Perkins : 404D-15 (perhaps some models a 404C-15?)

Have not verified where this model stops and where the volvo marine refinements start, but they seem to meet cylinder size and other specs.
Would love to hear from others that can 100% verify this match-up.
-Rand